I'd like to see your Saw handle pictures

[Robert Trotter]

I need to decide on wood for handles for a couple of saws. I would like to see your saws and what type of wood used.

Robert

[Andrew Gibson]

Check out my thread a few posts down. I am currently working on 4 saw handles out of curly hard maple. I plan to finish them with some danish oil and some amber shellac to add a bit of color... something similar to LN handle.

I thought very hard about using Bloodwood for the handles but Got an amazing deal on the maple that was to good to pass up.
Here is a handle I made recently with some of the Maple, it has a coule coats of danish oil and some wax. I plan to strip off the wax and add a few coats of the shellac.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk294/handyandy3459/100_0711.jpg

I would have loved to find some figured walnut, but there was none to be found.

[Andrew Gibson]

Also Check out the Wisdom/faq sticky, there are several threads of saw handles George Wilson made.

[David Weaver]

I need to decide on wood for handles for a couple of saws. I would like to see your saws and what type of wood used.

Robert

What size and style of saws are we talking about?

Backsaws?

Panel Saws?

Carpenters saws?

If the latter two, english pattern or american pattern, what era are you looking for?

[Eric Brown]

Here is a link to my saw gloat showing my maple and walnut handled saws.
Using the different woods for x-cut vs rip has really helped because when I reach for any saw I know exactly which one it is.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=131001

Eric

[Dave Matson]

backsaw.net has a gallery of backsaw handles you may find helpful.

open handled:
http://www.backsaw.net/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=7

closed handled:
http://www.backsaw.net/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=8

dimensions can be interpolated from the graph overlay.

[Tony Joyce]

1 of 2 Grammercy kit saws I'm building, Bubinga. Style copied from an Adria dovetail saw I have.

150061

[Harlan Barnhart]

Hi Robert,
Here are two handle I made from maple. The "finish" is one coat of wipe-on oil/varnish. I am planning to sand them down and rub in some boiled linseed oil.

[David Christopher]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/picture.php?albumid=261&pictureid=2572

padduck

[David Christopher]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/picture.php?albumid=261&pictureid=2571

Maple

[David Christopher]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/picture.php?albumid=261&pictureid=2573

cherry burl

[Sam Fan]

Walnut, based on the Gramercy carcase saw handle.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4585260197_7913f38296.jpg

[David Gendron]

Sam, realy nice handle, look realy confortable. Did you make the entire saw?

[Sam Fan]

Sam, realy nice handle, look realy comfortable. Did you make the entire saw?

Thanks!
It is pretty comfortable, but a little thin (always room for improvement).
But currently has a very smooth 0 tpi filing. ;)
And I did make the whole saw, slotted brass back, .020" plate.
It's my second saw, and third saw handle.

I'm still waiting on a Gramercy saw vise to cut the teeth (they're in stock now - woo! :D). But we'll see how comfortable it is in use.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4585257155_5089795023.jpg

[Will Brauneis]

Here's the saw handle i made for the gramercy carcass saw kit. I used bubinga. I use their template but made a few changes to suit my need.

[Robert Trotter]

FWIW...the saws will be back saws open and closed handle and panel saw

Rob

[David Weaver]

FWIW...the saws will be back saws open and closed handle and panel saw

Rob

For a panel saw, the totes on Disston 12s and 7s are nice. They have a reasonable level of detail, but not an obscene amount - unless you're looking for 18th century look, they might not be right.

[Robert Trotter]

David, I mainly looking at the woods for the tote (handle). I need to decide on the species.
I will probably go with Harvey Peace designs or Disston.

Rob

[Cliff Ober]

Bocote:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk42/cdober/Handmade%20Tools/th_TenonSawBocoteHandle4.jpg (http://s277.photobucket.com/albums/kk42/cdober/Handmade%20Tools/?action=view&current=TenonSawBocoteHandle4.jpg)

Cliff

[David Weaver]

Macassar ebony would be interesting - not too expensive, and available in appropriately sized boards - I've used it for several plane totes and knobs. To show off the striping, the boards are usually sawn in a way such that the grain direction would be about right, too, to show off the striping.

It is not as nice to work as the fruit woods and beech, though, nor does it satisfy the "correct police".

[Andrew Recher]

I've been working on this one. It's replacing the rather generic handle on what I believe to be a late model miter box saw (yard sale Disston). I'm not sure it's going to make it to completion. The cut for the saw plate went a little crooked and so the blade is at a very slight angle. I'm trying to correct it but I'm not sure it's going to work out. This blade may not be worth the effort anyway.

I do like the shape of this handle though, and it was fun to carve/shape. Hope my second one will be even better. Does anyone have any tips for getting the slot for the blade in line with the handle?

Thanks,
Andrew

[Robert Trotter]

Andrew, noone has replied so I'll give my half a cent worth of my non-existant experience...
I read somewhere where they recomended to use the actual blade to cut the slot. It said to lay it flat on a spacer the right thickness so that you could put your handle on the bench and then cut the slot. It was to end up being in the right place, paralel, and the right kerf thickness.

OK.. other can shoot me down now...But it sounded reasonable...

[Lowell Smith]

AIt said to lay it flat on a spacer the right thickness so that you could put your handle on the bench and then cut the slot. It was to end up being in the right place, paralel, and the right kerf thickness.

OK.. other can shoot me down now...But it sounded reasonable...

For examples, see

http://www.leevalley.com/newsletters/Woodworking/1/5/article3.htm

I've seen this elsewhere in this forum and I've used this approach well, too. Use this to get the cut aligned and then reposition in a vise to finish. Just be sure to take the kerf of the cut into account.

[Don C Peterson]

Some of my favorite saw handles are from the Disston 12's. Here is a thread I posted a while ago about making a replacement handle for one.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=73625

[Andrew Recher]

Andrew, noone has replied so I'll give my half a cent worth of my non-existant experience...
I read somewhere where they recomended to use the actual blade to cut the slot. It said to lay it flat on a spacer the right thickness so that you could put your handle on the bench and then cut the slot. It was to end up being in the right place, paralel, and the right kerf thickness.

OK.. other can shoot me down now...But it sounded reasonable...

Thanks, Robert.

I'll give that a try on the next go-around.

Andrew