Kitchen pantry in corner with inset door

[Robert Reece]

So I am designing a kitchen pantry that will be up against a wall on the hinge side. So the door can only open about 90 degrees. Inside the pantry will be some pull out trays (on drawer slides). In order to avoid the door, I have to offset these drawers in about 1.25" on the hinge side.

Question 1 - are there any hinges that will swing this inset door so that it is out of the way at 90

If no, Question 2 - I'll need to add some supports for the drawer slides of which the end will be exposed when the door is open. Is there a particular detail there that looks professional. I'd rather not have some plywood ends showing there. I might be able to use a little face-frame like piece to cover up that 1 1/4" offset from the outside face frame.

[Karl Brogger]

I've been using Blum full crank 107* hinges for inset applications, then varying the thickness of the hinge plate to fit the pocket behind the frame.

I've been taking a stick and drilling holes in the edge of it with the linebore, then using 5mm screws attaching the slides to those sticks. I either pocket screw the sticks in, (prior to putting on the slides), or screw them through the outside if unseen, to fasten them to the carcass.

There isn't really a great solution as far as looks go for clearing the hinges. Raising your bottom hinge up so it clears the bottom rollout will help with how narrow the roll louts have to be as well

This isn't inset, but kinda gives you an idea of what the sticks look like installed. Plus they are semi-adjustable.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs069.snc3/13662_1206717179308_1570037517_30539029_6246685_n. jpg

I really like using the 170* hinges, but I don't know if there is a way to make them work in an inset application. The door really gets out of the way then.

[John Morrison60]

Robert

I did a pantry cabinet (really a closet) with 8 drawers in a full height stack.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=130062

I used Blum Tandems and had a 1/2 inch extension on the bottom of the drawer fronts to hide the mechanism below the drawer.
that is easy to do if you have false drawer fronts, and a little trickier without.
How about spacing your drawers in such a way as to leave a space between
the drawers so that the drawers can go above and below the hinges.
Then you would not even have to shim reduce the width of the drawers to get by the hinges. Or possibly use different door hinges.

Good luck
John

[Mike Harrison]

I'd just make the stile on the hinge side a bit wider to allow for the door pull/handle when the door is at 90*. These are overlay doors, but if you use inset or flush doors, they will take up part of the door "opening" on the hinge side as well, so you must make allowances for that dimension also.

Since there is an end panel, at least I presume there is one, I usually just stack layers of (Hopefully) scrap solid material to shim between the inside of the end panel and the inside edge of the stile or where you will have the slide mounted for inset doors, so I can mount the slides.

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/Woodworking/kitchen/slidemount2.jpg

this stile is only an inch and a half wide, plus the thickness of the side(end) panel so a simple 3/4" bracket is all thats needed here.

[fRED mCnEILL]

I spaced my pantry out from the wall about an inch and used a filler piece. I then used European hinges that have the door in the same plane as the cabinet side when open 90 deg. I have full extension slides that allow for 1/2 in clearance between the cabinet wall and the drawer and they work fine.

[Rich Switzer]

Question 1 - are there any hinges that will swing this inset door so that it is out of the way at 90

Perhaps an Aximat hinge:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22130