Newbie Router Recommendations

[Colt Seavers]

I have a total newbie question. I just started getting into woodworking. I wanted to know what should I look for in a router and/or router table. I've been reading around and doing my research but I wanted to get some feedback from people in the field. I know I need a router that can hold 1/2" shank bits. Any recommends or information is greatly appreciated.

[Prashun Patel]

Depends what you want to spend. Routers appear to be like drill/drivers. Everyone swears their's is the absolute best.

That being said, there are 2 I'd recommend w/o hesitation:

Bosch 1617. The only prob with this is it doesn't follow the Porter Cable standard, which means you have to get Bosch or custom aftermarket accessories like plates and bushings.

Milwaukee 5615. This is an excellent budget router. Can be had for $100 on sale (watch Amazon) and includes both the plunge and fixed bases.

The Porter Cable (I think 693) is also a standard bearer, but I've not used it.

Whatever you get, get a combination pkg with fixed and plunge bases. You can permanently mount the fixed base in yr table.

As far as tables go, you might consider getting a $99 portable one from Rockler or the like. I used mine for quite a while while getting my router legs, and it really helped me figure out what I want out of a 'real' table (e.g., fences, inserts, lifts, tracks, dust collection, etc.)

[Neal Clayton]

porter cable 690, imo, is just about the perfect hand held size for a router, and it's strong enough (barely) to even do stile cuts and short/shallow panel profiles on softwoods, so would be a good choice for a first router.

[scott spencer]

Hi Colt and welcome to SMC. Since the desirable features for a hand router tend to be different than the features wanted in a table router, most of us end up with more than one router. Not only are the routers better suited for the application, but it's also a lot more convenient. It's also more expensive, but if you time the sales right, you can come out in pretty good shape. Food for thought...

For hand use, lighter weight, good balance, and good overall feel in your hands is important....a plunge/fixed base combo kit is convenient too. Usually 9 to 11 amps is plenty for hand use.

For table use variable speed is very important, power in the 13 to 15 amp range is useful, and above table features are very convenient.

Hard to wrong with a Milwaukee, PC, Bosch, Freud, Triton, Hitachi, Makita, or DW router.

[glenn bradley]

I wanted to know what should I look for in a router and/or router table.

That's two questions IMHO. Others feel differently. A hand router should feel good in your hands. For some this is a low two handle like the DW618 or the Bosch 1617. For others it is a D-handle. For me it is the body-grip on the Milwaukee 5615 and 5616's.

For the table, I have had success with routers marketed as 2+ HP units. I currently run a 15amp unit in the table.

Pay attention where I did not. I failed to listen when folks told me; if you are only getting one, make it a plunge. This truism has shifted somewhat a there are a couple of combo kits out there that do as well as dedicated plunge routers and have the additional fixed base included.

There are some routers that few folks like but there are a lot of routers that many different people like. This just adds credence to the idea that a router is a fairly personal tool based on your height, hand size, grip strength, etc.

[Michael MacDonald]

I am newish too... and I forked out for the PC 691 originally (I like the D-handle, by the way, but it is not necessary). a few months later, and I needed the plunge base... another $100+. Now I realize I need variable speed to use the larger horizontal panel bits... so i am looking at options for a second router.

I would suggest starting with a kit. Get soft start and VS and plunge right away. make sure you can handle 1/4 and 1/2 inch shanks... the 1/4 bits are often fine and they are cheaper.

As for a router table, I would suggest making one... the nice tables are pricey. In the meantime, you can easily make lots of jigs for controlling the handheld router.

Spend the $$ up front. The economic sting will fade and you will soon forget the dollar amount. But each time you use a good tool you will be grateful.

[Jim Rimmer]

+1 on the PC 690 for a first router. Check out the model numbers, though. 690 is the motor and then the last digit (0) changes depending on options in the package like multiple bases, VS, etc.

I agree with Glenn that your asking 2 questions. I don't know your skill level so I would suggest getting a low price table from Rockler unless you have the skills to build one and then look for a 2 + HP to permanently mount in the table.

I know people here will disagree with me but don't overlook ebay for a good price. I've bought 2 690s - one was pretty rough but OK; the other was like new. Know what new ones sell for before you bid. You may not get a steal but you may save $30 - $50. Look closely at the picture and make sure they didn't post a catalog pic.

I have three 690s (two dedicated to my dovetail jig), a Freud mounted in my RT and a Ryobi. I wouldn't recommend Ryobi but I got it on sale.

The comment about aftermarket kits (plates, bushings, etc) is valid and Porter Cable seems to be the standard.

[David Nelson1]

I bought this one and am extremely pleased with it. My old router was a Craftsman 1 3/4 hp.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004981/22079/Porter-Cable-2-14-HP-VS-Router-Kit--Model-894PK.aspx

[Van Huskey]

Colt, welcome.

I would really like to know your budget and also remember that the router is just PART of the monetary equation. Bits are as or more important than the router itself for quality cuts, and good ones aren't cheap. A Whiteside or Freud bit in a Ryobi will produce better results much of the time than a no-name Chinese import bit in a Festool, though the Festool will be nicer to use. I would suggest the 10 Essential Router Bits set from Whiteside to start. It has bits that you will use a lot over the years and will be cost effective in the long run.

[Colt Seavers]

Thanks for all the advice!

[Van Huskey]

Thanks for all the advice!

Do you have a budget in mind it will help a lot?

[Paul Hingco]

Love my Dewalt 618. So much so I bought another set that had the D-handle base. I would also take a look at the Milwaukee and Bosch brands.

[Don Morris]

I also have a couple PC 690's and agree they're bullet proof as starters. They handle the 1/4 and 1/2 inch size bits. They're not Variable Speed, that you usually get in the next level up versions. One reason I have several is I also bought the kit shown in the above post. Great kit. Nice to have a fixed base and a plunge base. If you do much, you'll use both. Welcome to the "creek" and I'm so sorry you got into this habit. Now you'll never have an extra penny. But we'll do everything we can to help you spend it wisely!

[Peter Aeschliman]

If you are going to use the router in the table only, get one that has a built in lift mechanism.

To me, it doesn't make sense to spend $300 on a router, then $300 on a lift, when you can spend $300 and get both in one.

I just bought a Triton router and couldn't be happier. I believe there are some Freud routers that also have lifts built in.

Although lifts are not necessary, they are quite useful.

[Van Huskey]

To me, it doesn't make sense to spend $300 on a router, then $300 on a lift, when you can spend $300 and get both in one.


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It only makes sense after you use a good lift with a 7518 or comparable motor in it. That said I have three tables and one does not have a lift it has a 3hp Freud in it, it works well for what I use that table for but a good lift is a night and day difference.

The problem with routers that are good in tables without lifts is they usually suck as hand held routers, the Freuds and Tritons are examples of this. In a table you want lots of power and this usually makes the router heavy (and top heavy) and unweildy for hand held use. I have yet to find any router/router kit that truely balances this well.

Most people that do much router work end up with a collection of them as there are so many different types and features.

In the end I think the best choice for a first "good" router is a variable speed fixed/plunge base kit from one of the good router makers. Bosch, Dewalt, P-C and Milwaukee are all good choices. The Bosch and Dewalt 2 1/4 hp kits can be had for just over $200 and they are probably my favs in this niche.

[Ray McCullie]

Like what has already been said, there are three features that are a must, soft start, variable speed, and plunge base.

I started out with a Skil router, UGH, that thing was a hazard and the depth never held, made it almost impossible to use. Wanted to jump out of your hands and I always felt like it would run away and kill me.

I upgraded to a Bosch 1617EVSPK plunge/fixed kit and love using it. Granted it's got to be better then what I had before but the soft start and speed control are great. I like the motor's constant response feature and it comes with 2 collet nuts, one for 1/4" (which was the size of my old bits) and one for 1/2". Only down side is the on/off switch is a bit awkward.

Also if you get the RA1100 PC-Bosch adapter (~$7) you'll be able to use PC bushings and have the Bosch quick release feature, best of both worlds.

The depth settings stay put and it's been a really nice tool. I wouldn't recommend the router table though, it's nice but a real pain to get the router in and out to change bits. Mainly because you have to remove the fence to lift the mounting plate out.

Hope that helps and good luck.

FYI Lowe's had/has them cheap then amazon, ~$180.

[John M Wilson]

As another newbie, I can attest that the Bosch combo kit is an excellent value, but don't forget to budget for bits -- a router is worthless without them, and the price of the bits can be more than the router! I picked up the MLCS 15 piece bit set from Amazon for $40, and while I'm sure that they are not in the same class as some of the pricier bits, they are good quality & hard to beat for value. Note: there are some really poor quality bits out there which will make you wish you had saved up and bought better ones. It's like having a $5000 stereo system with $10 speakers -- the bits are the only part that cuts the wood. Good Luck!