Work Bench build

[Gil Knowles]

Hi
Sorry about another workbench build but I have a question.
I am trying to get into more hand tools and finally decided to build a proper workbench. I am at the stage of drilling 3/4" round dog holes. The top is 2 1/4 thick white ash. I have tried drilling with a high speed twist bit and a forstner bit with a 18V cordless drill. They both do not seem to cut very well.
So I am wondering what the best bit choice would be. Would a brad point or an auger bit work better. I do not have a brace.
The bench is based on the LV plans with a few mods, I have beefed it up a bit. Below is a picture of the wood after machining and glueup of top legs and rails.. It will have a cherry skirt and tool well.
Any suggestions and help will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks

[Justin Chen]

Do you have a router or only cordless drill? You might overwork a cordless drill in this situation.

[Andrew Gibson]

A Plunge router with a template might work but I think you are going to have trouble getting all the way through the top with it.

My best guess would be that an auger bit would work best. Might be worth finding an old brace this weekend and giving it a try ;)

No matter what you do I would try to put a scrap on the back side of the hole to keep from blowing out the back side. I'm sure that some of the more experienced guys will chime in here soon.

[John Schreiber]

I had good luck with a sharp new spade bit, but used a corded drill in a jig.

[Matt Benton]

You really need to get a brace. I struggled drilling large holes, assuming power was the way to go. Bought a brace and bits at a flea market, and can honestly say that when I build my bench, I won't even consider any other method. Start with a forstner to get a clean entry, then use the brace...

[Sean Kinn]

I used my corded milwaukee drill, and my 3/4" HSS "lipped brad point" wood bit from Lee Valley. It went through my 3" Ash top with no problems. I clamped a guide block on the top side, and a piece of scrap on the backside to prevent blowout. I just went slow, and let the bit do it's thing. I do not recommend doing this with a cordless drill.

[Doug Shepard]

I did my 3-5/8" top with a 3/4" LV Brad point bit (around 6" cutting length) and a corded drill. No problem cutting clean holes through mine. I'd echo the other comments about clamping a backer board underneath to avoid tearout on the bottom.

[Steve Branam]

Here's where I drilled the 25 dog holes in my Roubo with a brace and bit, scroll down to the third picture: http://www.closegrain.com/2010/02/my-roubo-part-13.html

I drilled from the top until the spiral leader tip just poked through, then from underneath set the bit back in that hole and finished off (holes near the legs may need the ratchet). That gives you a clean hole, leaving a nice little disk on the end of your bit. Then a little cleanout with a cylindrical surform rasp, since it's tough to keep it perfectly dead straight. But these holes now work just fine with my holdfasts.

It's work, no doubt about it. That's why it'll burn out a power drill or drain the battery of a cordless. But the human-powered drill is inexhaustible! It just need an occasional rest...

[Thomas Nye]

I have made several benches and drilled deep holes in other projects. A cordless drill ( I used my 18V Milwaukee ) just does not have the torque to auger deep into the wood, especially larger holes. I tried several different bits to no avail. I am into hand tools and had a bit brace and a nice auger bit. Sharpened it a bit and it went through the wood like butter. The screw on the end of the auger bits pull the bit into the wood at a certain pace. A dull bit will be a pain, but get a sharp one and you will have no problems. I have drilled into oak, maple, poplar, cherry, walnut and pine and it performed the same in all. I personally feel you have much better control going nice and slow with a bit brace, than trying to zip through it with a powered drill. I got the brace and bit at the local flea market for like $5.00. Since I have several, I regulary pass them up now. I am sure this is much cheaper than buying an expensive drill bit your probably only going to use once. I have used corded drills and if they catch, you get a nice twisted wrist very quickly.

If your going to use an auger bit, definately attach a bottom board because when its near the end, the auger screw has nothing to pull it through that last 1/16 of an inch. This will prevent any tearout and produce a hole like you used a drill press. All my bit braces have about a 6" swing and that was more than enough.

It does take some work as mentioned above, but when you use a bit brace and a nice sharp bit, you will actually be surprised how well they work........I truely believe the old timers that designed these and other vintage tools knew a heck of alot more than than we do now. Most of the most beautiful woodworking pieces ever made were made with strictly hand tools. The quality of those items is simply amazing.

Just my 2 cents, hope this helps !!!
Let us know how you make out ?

[Jim Koepke]

My vote is also to find a brace and auger bit. With a sharp bit, it will cut a clean hole.

As others have said, use a backer board or cut through until the lead screw pokes through and then cut from the other side.

A good brace should be easy to find in an antique shop, flea market or yard sale.

Here is a post of mine on auger bits that includes information on sharpening:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=131238

Make sure the bits still have their spurs. Also avoid bent and heavily rusted bits.

jim

[Josh Bowman]

Hi
Sorry about another workbench build but I have a question.
I am trying to get into more hand tools and finally decided to build a proper workbench. I am at the stage of drilling 3/4" round dog holes. The top is 2 1/4 thick white ash. I have tried drilling with a high speed twist bit and a forstner bit with a 18V cordless drill. They both do not seem to cut very well.
So I am wondering what the best bit choice would be. Would a brad point or an auger bit work better. I do not have a brace.
The bench is based on the LV plans with a few mods, I have beefed it up a bit. Below is a picture of the wood after machining and glueup of top legs and rails.. It will have a cherry skirt and tool well.
Any suggestions and help will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Gil,
Just finished my bench. If you're at the early stages, you could borrow a drill press. I didn't think of dog holes until to late. Wound up using a plunge router with a 3/4" ($42 at wood craft) sprial bit, then finished with a brad point in a small drill press that was modified to let me clamp it to the bench. At 2 1/4 inches the obsurd 3/4" router bit will almost go through. I also had good luck with a bit and brace.....I just wasn't up to the task! To much sitting behind a desk. One of the editors at popular woodworking shows how to do the plunge router....it's very easy.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Workbench_Dog_Holes/ (http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Workbench_Dog_Holes/)

[glenn bradley]

I used a corded 9 amp drill motor with some success. I got a few of them not so true to 90* as I wished despite using a guide-jig. The balance I did with a plunge router and a 3/4" upcut spiral bit. Now yer talkin'!

[Patrick Tipton]

Greetings. I think you will be fine with a cordless and brad point, but you need to learn to sharpen them yourself. I was taught by a chairmaker who happens to have a great blog that includes a couple of posts on grinding bits. You will need to scroll down a few posts to see his method. I promise it works like a charm and will cut thru any hardwood without effort and tearout if the bit is correctly sharpened.

http://chairnotes.blogspot.com/search/label/Drill%20Grinding

Regards, Patrick

[Gil Knowles]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I have ordered a HSS brad point bit from LV today. My brother has a Dewalt 36 volt Lion 1/2" cordless that I can borrow, he claims that it is as powerful as a corded drill.
I am going to keep my eye out for a brace for the future.

Gil

[Mike Brady]

I drilled my dog hole board (3" ash) before it was glued into the lamination for the top. I used a drill press and a Blue-Mol 3/4" twist drill bit. This is the first choice method, in my opinion. Plan out your holes so they don't end up above a leg or vise hardware. That is an easy mistake to make if you are making your top first. I recommend making a full size pattern on paper for your dog holes.

I also have drill dog holes very successfully in a finished top using a higher voltage cordless drill and a single-spur auger bit that is made for electricians. This drilled clean and fast and they are long bits. Do not try to use a Forstner bit in a hand drill for dog holes! You will end up with a worm hole instead of a straight hole.