Spalted Maple Question?

[James Combs]

Just got a piece of HIGHLY spalted maple out of a friends wood pile. Is there anything you should do to it before using it.:confused: Like kill the spalting (fungi):eek: Of course I didn't think to ask this until I started a project.:o

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I cut this little wedge up into...

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...an ornament blank and a pen blank

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...and a bowl blank (its the one I started already. This stuff turns like sponge cake:eek:. Note the very ragged end grain.

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After a tremendous amount of sanding:( I managed to get it to look like this but...

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... my final plans for it, are for it to look like this.
Thanks for the loan of your finial John Keaton:D.

[Prashun Patel]

You can impregnate the punky areas with ca glue to harden it. I'm making a chair out of spalted maple right now although mine's not as punky as your's seems to be.

It's amazing, though how LIGHT it becomes. It's like working with pine in some areas.

[Steve Schlumpf]

James - I know a lot of folks use a white glue/water mix or thinned epoxy to harden punky wood. When I come across wood that turns like sponge cake - I move on to the next piece!

The fungi causing the spalt needs moisture and air to live. Once the wood becomes dry and you put some type of finish on it - you don't have to worry about fungi anymore.

Also, just something I learned when dealing with semi-punky wood - when you go to apply a finish - make sure you use some type of sealer first or your punky areas will act exactly like a sponge and suck up all the finish!

[Tim Rinehart]

I have some similar wood...my plan is to try roughing down the piece, then applying Polycryl to help stabilize it. I'll probably start with an experiment piece first, to get idea of how deep the stabilizing goes. As I understand, you need to thin down this stuff for initial applications.

Would love to hear if anyone has used it and 'figured it out' to point of getting consistent results. I just have no experience with it.

Good luck...at least you know where you want to go with the piece!

[Bernie Weishapl]

James you don't need to worry about the spalting as it is dead if the wood is dry. I wouldn't breath it while turning or sanding though. If I run across a piece that is spongey or punky I move onto the next piece. I use 5 minute epoxy mixed with some DNA to the consistancy of milk. I paint it on till it won't take anymore then let it dry for 24 hrs. Like Steve said use some sanding sealer or it will drink finish like it will never end.

[David E Keller]

It's a great looking chunk of wood. While I understand the advice of others to move on if it's punky, sometimes it's worth the extra effort. You can use shellac to stiffen the fibers before your final cuts which should help a bit. Patience and the old 80 grit gouge come in handy too!:D

For pen blanks, I generally rough turn and then soak with thin CA before finish turning. You can also send them out for professional stabilization.

[Wally Dickerman]

I belong to the "Life is too short to turn crappy wood" club. However, once in a while a piece of wood comes along that is worth a little extra effort to save it. I suggest that you very carefully rough turn a piece if you can. If, with sharp tools, rubbing the bevel taking light cuts and going with the grain still tears out chunks of wood, toss it.

If however, you can successfully rough turn it, give it a try. My choice would be the 50/50 white glue and water method. I've done this with good results a number of times. Also had a few failures. I use a small plastic tub. Immerse the bowl and weight it down with a rock. I let it soak for 24 hours or so. Longer might be better, I haven't tried it. Save the glue mix in a Clorox jug for future use.

When you rough turn it, plan on some warping. You're soaking it in water. Let it dry for a couple of weeks and give it a try.

For me, using CA glue or thin epoxy isn't very satisfactory. Doesn't soak in much, changes the color of the wood and makes it hard in spots. When you sand it the soft areas will sand away the the hard ones won't. Makes for a very lumpy bowl.

Wally

[Donny Lawson]

Nice piece of spalted maple.That did look a little soft but you did a great job working with it. I would use Minwax "Wood Hardner" and soak the piece in it or brush it on until it wouldn't take it anymore.Let it dry for at least 24 hours and continue turning.I work with alot of that stuff and so far they all have turned out well.
Donny

[Seri Robinson]

Don't fear the fungus!

Check out this blog post (http://web.mac.com/kaysa_gabriel/Northern_Spalting/Blog/Entries/2009/10/20_I_promise%2C_spalted_wood_isnt_going_to_kill_yo u_.html).



Just got a piece of HIGHLY spalted maple out of a friends wood pile. Is there anything you should do to it before using it.:confused: Like kill the spalting (fungi):eek: Of course I didn't think to ask this until I started a project.:o

[Thom Sturgill]

I've not used epoxy and agree that CA changes the color. I tried doing a CA finish on one piece to even it out with moderate success. Since I use laqcuer as my primary finish, I use v-e-r-y thin lacquer as a sealer and have used this on rough pieces to stabilize them.

[Ryan Baker]

The Minwax wood hardener method works well, though you go through the stuff fast. It doesn't change the color. I haven't used the epoxy method, but it sounds like a good approach. I think I will try that next time.

[Roger Bell]

I have quite a bit of rather stunning spalted wood similar to yours. It is terrible in terms of trying to turn to a good smooth texture, but I don't have the heart to throw it out quite yet. I will probably try some various stabilization techniques next.

I have had the best luck in turning either spindles (those without fine, crisp details) or very thick-walled vessels, such as vases, where the a smooth inside surface isn't that important. Especially the kind of vase where you simply drill out a cavity for a glass insert. I haven't had decent results with bowls. Small boxes aren't too bad.

I have gotten very good results on any piece where I can use a Very sharp skew chisel to finish off the outside. Anything less than a Very sharp skew leaves disappointing results in terms of a smooth texture.

So, so far, I am limiting my use of this wood to certain forms....until I can figure out a stabilizing method that isn't more trouble and expense than it is worth.

Sanding, except with very fine finish-grains, is a losing proposition .....much like oversanding most softwoods.....it just makes things worse.

I haven't had problems finishing as long as I applied a shellac sealing base to the bare wood before going with my usual oil-varnish top coats.

[James Combs]

Thanks to all that have contributed and will contribute to this thread. I used CA on the subject item (see http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=139575 for the result) but I am going to pick up some of the Minwax Wood Hardener to try on the next project, probably a pen.

Thanks again I appreciate all the input.