Thinkin' 'bout a PCS SawStop

[Ray Newman]

Gents: like to solicit some of your combined and sage advice.

I am thinking about buying a SawStop PCS as my hands don’t always work as well as they once did. Being a bilateral above the knee amputee in wheelchair (I don’t wear prostheses), I don’t need and can not afford to loose any more appendages.

I run a 23 year old delta Unisaw (with Uniguard and 52“ rails on the Unifence), which serves me very well. When I bought it, I removed the plinth, which lowered the saw from an overall height of approx. 34” to 30” -- perfect height for me to operate the saw from the wheelchair.

I have “examined” the PCS SawStop, but at 34” high, it is way too high for my use.

I have been trying to figure out a way to make the saw lower. A fellow woodworker suggested cutting a hole in the concrete floor. Problems I foresee with that approach:
--The saw can not be moved.
--The ground beneath my shop is very rocky and wet in the winter. Concern is about drainage under the floor.

Another suggested building a 4“ wood shop floor, but I would loose room in the shop for the ramps at the side door and overhead roll-up door.
Same for an elevated platform -- loose room.

Yet another suggested a firm 4” cushion for the chair, but that will alter my balance.

I thought of a plasma cutter to cut off the about 4” from the bottom part of the cabinet. But:
--Would a plasma cutter do this efficiently and reasonably straight? I know nothing about metal work.
--I wonder how much of the saw’s innards would need to be removed?

I looked at the on-line PCS SawStop schematic drawings for the cabinet and did not see a shelf or any type of inner supports. The local Woodcraft’s floor model was situated so I could not look inside the cabinet. Would a PCS user look mind let me know?

I talked to SawStop customer service several weeks ago, and he could not offer me any ideas.

Anyone with any ideas?

[Michael Peet]

Hi Ray,

Here are some pics from my PCS. I think the only thing in the lower few inches is the mobile base stuff:

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The square in the pics is exactly 4" tall, so you can get an idea of where the cut would fall if you went that route. The second pic is the guts of what is shown in the first pic.

Man, that looks really dusty in the pics. I'll have to get someone to take care of that...

Mike

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Ray, I would check with SawStop to see if there is anything in the lower section of the cabinet that would be in the way of cutting some off of it.

If they give the go ahead, I wouldn't hesitate to have a good metal fabrication shop cut the cabinet into 3 pieces and weld the base back on.

As you are probably aware, General make the Access line of machines which have a reduced height for wheel chair operators, unfortunately they don't have the SS technology.

Another option would be a sliding table saw, cut as you described. I know it doesn't have the SS feature either, hover the sliding table with hold down clamps may give you advantages that a cabinet saw won't.

Regards, Rod.

[Michael Schwartz]

The stand on the contractor version would be much easier to cut down.

The SS contractor saw is very nice when setup with the cast iron extension, and 52" fence. The saw runs nicely, passes the dime test, has just enough power, and cuts well. The dust collection is pretty good, although it does lack the new guard that comes with the PCS the DC is better than average.

I normally run a rip blade when cutting rough or long 8/4 stock or since this is the only situation where having the smaller motor is noticeable. I own the contractor saw with cast iron extension and the full fence system, but I have worked with both the ICS and PCS in a few shops and I am very happy with mine. In the future if I ever have room for an additional saw I will likely add a PCS/ICS for ripping, but dedicate the contractor saw to cross cutting since it cuts well, and does its job.

My SS CS replaced a Jet JTAS-10XL with a 3hp motor and I don't miss it. even the SS contractor saw is well built. Its expensive but you certainly get what you pay for.

[Ray Bell]

Looking at Michael's pictures it looks like a 4" apron for the mobile base stuff, and then the bottom shelf. Seems like it shouldn't be too difficult to cut off that bottom 4".

[Ray Newman]

Mike: thanks for the information and pictures. From the PCS that I examined at WoodCraft and the on-line manual, I thought that the casters were the only parts in the lower part of the cabinet. And once in place, the saw will not be moved. I haven’t moved it all during the last nine years it has been in the new shop. And it the old shop it was moved only once in 13+ years.

Rod: issue with a slider is that I would giving up too much space. I have a sliding table attachment for the Unisaw, but took it off because of the space limitations. I also found that I didn’t use it all that much as it is easier for me to break down sheet goods with the Fe$tool circular saw. Plus, I really don’t do large work, and a slider would seem to be overkill for what my Incra miter gauge does.

I have read of but never seen the General accessible machines. If I replace the Unisaw, I’ll go with SawStop for the safety device.

Thanks for info and ideas gents.

[Ray Newman]

Mike S: Bfeore buying my Unisaw ib 1988, I hade a Delta contractor saw and the stand was easy to cut down. But DC is a problem as my sinuses can flare up and I reload cartridges in trhe same shop and need to keep things very clean and free of saw dust as far as possible.

[Van Huskey]

If you want to be able to move it this is probably the approach. I would personally cut out the concrete dig it out form it and pour sides and the floor, you might be able to build a ramp so it could me moved back to floor level and cover it with an outfeed table.



The stand on the contractor version would be much easier to cut down.

The SS contractor saw is very nice when setup with the cast iron extension, and 52" fence. The saw runs nicely, passes the dime test, has just enough power, and cuts well. The dust collection is pretty good, although it does lack the new guard that comes with the PCS the DC is better than average.

I normally run a rip blade when cutting rough or long 8/4 stock or since this is the only situation where having the smaller motor is noticeable. I own the contractor saw with cast iron extension and the full fence system, but I have worked with both the ICS and PCS in a few shops and I am very happy with mine. In the future if I ever have room for an additional saw I will likely add a PCS/ICS for ripping, but dedicate the contractor saw to cross cutting since it cuts well, and does its job.

My SS CS replaced a Jet JTAS-10XL with a 3hp motor and I don't miss it. even the SS contractor saw is well built. Its expensive but you certainly get what you pay for.

[bill bruno]

Hi Ray,

I have a SawStop and it is a great saw! Have you tried to contact Steve Gass at SawStop? He is the inventor and an incredibly creative individual. Hope this helps.

Thanks later bill

[Keith Outten]

Ray,

The bottom of the cabinet can be cut with a grinder or plasma and there are probably other ways to get the job done as well. No matter how you decide to cut it you will most likely have to tack weld some flat bar to the bottom edge to reinforce the raw cut edge, Tig or Mig welding would be preferable. Normally sheet metal will have a rolled edge or some other detail for strength, particularly if it is a load bearing edge.
.

[Paul Ryan]

I agree with someone else. The contractor is a much better option considering your situation. The base on the contractor could easily be lowered solving your problems. With all of the extras added onto the contractor you really arn't giving up much except the 3hp motor.

[mreza Salav]

I'd 2nd (or 3rd) getting the contractor version. You can remove the legs and build a base for it that extends in the back (as an out-feed table) and encloses the motor and everything to get a good dust collection.
I have seen a few of these platforms with other contractor saws and I'm sure it can be done with a SS too (if dust collection is the issue).

[Prashun Patel]

I respectfully disagree that you should get the contractor saw just because of the height.

I just bought the SSPCS last week and felt around inside. There is 6" of dead space below the bottom of the cabinet and the floor. That's where the mobile base mounts. I'm sure you can trim off as much of that space as you wish.

I just upgraded from a 'hybrid' saw - which is really what the contractor is more like - because I can use the add'l power on thicker woods.

[Mike Lozinski]

I have the contractors model, that I goosed up to 220v, cast iron tables and big fence. you could make a stand /table for it to sit on, or cut the legs down. it is a nice saw. my .02 cents.

[Ray Newman]

Follow up: on May 10th, I wrote a letter to Steve Gass, SawStop CEO, inquiring about lowering a SawStop PCS from 34" to 30" to accommodate my wheelchair.

This afternoon, I received a call from Mr. Gass who explained that while it is not feasible for SawStop to market a saw with a lower cabinet, there is a re-enforcing shelf 5 inches from the bottom of the cabinet and a jig saw will easily cut the cabinet. So 4 inches could be cut from the bottom of the cabinet without loosing any structural integrity. Mr. Gass explained that the saw is shipped on its side and the bottom could be cut by rolling it over.

Cutting the cabinet with a jig saw is something I never considered as others suggested a torch, plasma cuter, etc.

[Victor Robinson]

Great news! Nice of Mr. Gass to give you a ring.