Another Buffing question

[Brian Brown]

I have the Beall individual 3 buff system. The tripoli and white diamond compounds are abrasives in a wax binder. When an object is buffed with the compounds, it seems to me that some of the wax will stick to the buffed object, or be worked into the microscopic holes in the surface. That would make it hard to get a finish like lacquer to stick, or oil to penetrate. Is it not recommended to buff bare wood if you are planning to use an oil or film finish? I just finished a small hollow form sanded to 800, and I am trying to get the highest gloss surface possible. Do I buff the raw wood, and then finish and buff, or finish then buff? :confused:

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Brian,

I don't buff anything I plan on putting a finish on. That is just my way of handling it. I don't want to chance it ruining the finish. After the finish is applied and dried...then buff.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Brian - I am sure everyone has their own way of doing things - but I sand, apply finish, allow to cure - then buff.

[David E Keller]

I finish then buff... Seems to work for me. I've had great luck with Deft brushing lacquer for a really glossy finish.

[Bob Vavricka]

Brian, I don't buff before putting on the finish for the reasons you state. When putting on a finish that builds on the surface, like lacquer, I don't usually sand much past 320/400 grit since you are going to feel the finish rather than the wood once the finish builds on the surface. If the wood is dark and has pores that are not filled prior to finishing or with the finish, then you may not want to buff with the white diamond because it will get in the pores and will be virtually impossible to remove. I'll let someone who uses a penetrating oil finish and buffs tell you how address that type of finish.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Normally I sand to 400 grit on most everything, finish then buff.

[Thomas Canfield]

I got the recipe and instructions from a turner from Hilo HI that I have been using most of the time lately. His brew was 1 part Deft Polyurethane and 4 parts Deft Oil. I can't find the Deft Oil so use some other danish oil. His recommendation was to sand to 400 grit, buff with Tripoli, and then start applying finish. Buff after each additional finish coat until you are satisified, and then do one more coat. Lightly buff with Tripoli (usually only the used wheel from earlier buffing) and then go to white diamond followed by Renanasiance wax.

I find the buff with Tripoli really makes the wood come alive filling the small pores. The Tripoli will add some color, but not OK on tan, reddish, and darker wood. Try it on a practice piece.

[Wally Dickerman]

Brian, lots of different answers here. I regularly apply one coat of finishing oil (Daly's Ben Matte Tung Oil). I wait a few days for that to cure. Then I use tripoli and white diamond..no wax. I then finish the job by applying as many coats of oil as it takes to get a satisfactory finish. The tripoli and white diamond don't seem to affect the oil at all. Part of the key for me is to not rush the process.

My family has pieces that I've done years ago and were finished with Daly's oil. I have recently used the Beall system on them to restore what had become a dull finish. The Beall system wasn't around when these pieces were turned. With those pieces I usually add the carnuba wax. I'm going to be interested to see how long the newly bright finish lasts.

Wally

[Frank Van Atta]

The biggest complaint I hear about buffing is that the tripoli leaves noticeable residue in the grain of light woods and white diamond in the grain of dark woods. In my case, I apply at least one coat of shellac to seal the pores, then buff.

[Keith Burns]

Brian, I guess I am the odd man out. I frequently buff with the tripoli prior th finishing and have never had a problem. Just don't overload the wheels with compound. I finish with either antique oil or bruch on lacquer.

[Thom Sturgill]

I'd go with the crowd and say finish then buff especially if using lacquer. Lacquer does not like anything with silicon in it (causes fish-eye). If using oil, especially as a friction finish, you can go directly to the buffer as soon as the oil is dry. Lacquer and poly need cure time as the friction generated heat can remove the finish which is a surface film.

I sand to 400-600 grit then brush on a thinned lacquer as a sealer and finish with rattle can lacquer - that is sanded to 1500 or so and resprayed as needed to get rid of blemishes. Then I hand polish to 8k or 12k with mineral spirits as a lube. After curing at least a week I buff with white diamond and Don Pencil's PL compound then wax with Ren wax.