How to tell when bandsaw blade is dull

[Brendan Plavis]

I was looking at the blade, because it kept making weird noises when I was cutting, and I noticed several of the teeth are either bent, or missing their tips(this is a 14tpi blade, so its not very pronounced, but it looks this way.) Is this dull? Its only been in use about a week. Then again, it was a no-name, I got for $5...

I was just milling my own lumber for a small little project I was doing(making a small catapult out of some rat traps(hey, when I get board... I get to making stuff out of stuff...) so I am thinking maybe that did it to it...

If this means its dull, then where is the best place to buy blades, within 25 miles of Burrillville RI? And preferably cheap...

Thanks
-Brendan

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Brendan, a 14 TPI blade is a very fine pitch for cutting extremely thin material.

I don't own a bandsaw blade with more than 6 TPI.

Buy your blades from a saw shop in your area, they will make whatever blade you want, for less money than retail blades, and with better quality.

Bandsaw blades are inexpensive, and have a short lifespan, when they start drifting off in one direction, or sawing slowly or making crooked cuts, they need replacing.

Regards, Rod.

[Fred Perreault]

Try Woodcraft, in Greenwich. It may not be 25 miles, but they have a great selection.

[Brendan Plavis]

Okay, Ill definately look into that... Thanks

Ps. Noticed your from Orleans... Wonderful area... I have grandparents who own a house in Eastham... We complain about prices here, but out your way they are double... :( Beaches open down their yet? Considering we had 90degree weather today(probably 80 your way..)

Just thought that was funny... the world is a small place...

[Joshua Culp]

Here is a good write-up on how to sharpen a bandsaw blade:

http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/sharpening.html


And his write-up on stoning a blade:

http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/stoning.html

[John Downey]

Not a local source, but I really like Highland Hardware's general use blades, they cut smoother than the ones I make up myself. You can silver solder your own blades too, that gets the cost down to $5-$10 depending on what stock you can find. You need a torch hotter than propane, but a mapp torch from the hardware store would probably do it.

[george wilson]

You are using a metal cutting blade. Probably clogging right up. Get a 6 tooth per inch blade. When it gets dull,it will begin to not cut easily,and will sort of jerk along through the wood as you apply pressure. A sharp blade cuts without urging.

I looked at the above blade stoning and sharpening references. BEST IGNORE THEM!!!!!! I would NEVER try to use a Dremel tool to sharpen a blade. I have done it many times on a bench grinder with a narrow wheel dressed to an angle. Much easier to get the wheel correctly against the blade. The blades lose their set as you grind,but you can get away with it maybe 2 times if you are careful to just take off the slightest sparking from each tooth.

As for stoning,I do not recommend getting abrasive into the guide bearings,etc. It is stupid to use a water stone,too. TOO SOFT. If you MUST do it, AT LEAST use an orange India oil stone. You will get hardly any abrasive dust in the bearings. I still never stone anyway. It makes flat spots with no clearance on the sides of the teeth,which leads to earlier burning,etc..

The trouble with the internet is that ANYONE can put up info.,good or bad.

[Phil Phelps]

The most dangerous thing you can do is "force" the work against the blade. Change blades frequently.

[Josh Bowman]

The most dangerous thing you can do is "force" the work against the blade. Change blades frequently.
The best safety lesson I learned was NOT by MY own experiance. A friend, coworker and fellow woodworker (very experianced). He was cutting some stock on his band saw. Here's what was wrong. He was a little sick that day and had had some slight dizzie spells. His blade was a little dull so he had to push a little harder. His blade guard was high. The stock fed as expected then hit a soft spot and fed very fast. His hand passed by the blade, and he thought it was just a close call.....then he saw 3 of his fingers laying on the band saw table. No pain very clean cut, since even dull blades cut bone a flesh easy. Another friend of mine keeps 4 bandaids attached to his bandsaw and table saw fence to remind him to be careful.
You're dull when you have to push hard on normal thickness stock.

[Brendan Plavis]

Ahh... see what I do, is I use a push stick to push, and keep my other hand on the side of the blade to apply pressure to the work piece... people have been wondering what the heck I do to my push sticks...

But ouch... I am sure it hurt after he saw what happened..... That is one thing that while easy to forget to do, should never be forgotten, the guard...

[Joshua Culp]

Thanks for the response, George. I understand and agree with your response to stoning the blade. I have never tried it, but read that article recently and thought it may apply here. That is a great point about getting abrasive dust in the bearings and blade guides. I hadn't thought that through, but I suppose it would have quickly become apparent if I had tried it.

I have sharpened blades though, although with a file and not a Demel or grinder. Usually, I just buy a new one because of the time involved. Do you not recommend sharpening with a Dremmel just because it is harder to get the angle, or also because it's too easy to take off too much metal due to the faster tool speed? I think sharpening a blade is just fine, as long as a person understands the intent and limitations of sharpening a blade - i.e. it's not a replacement for buying a new one, but it can extend the life a little.

[Phil Phelps]

Thanks for the response, George. I understand and agree with your response to stoning the blade. I have never tried it, but read that article recently and thought it may apply here. That is a great point about getting abrasive dust in the bearings and blade guides. I hadn't thought that through, but I suppose it would have quickly become apparent if I had tried it.

I have sharpened blades though, although with a file and not a Demel or grinder. Usually, I just buy a new one because of the time involved. Do you not recommend sharpening with a Dremmel just because it is harder to get the angle, or also because it's too easy to take off too much metal due to the faster tool speed? I think sharpening a blade is just fine, as long as a person understands the intent and limitations of sharpening a blade - i.e. it's not a replacement for buying a new one, but it can extend the life a little.

It's not even worth the effort. You'll have a different angle on every tooth.