A couple of questions about pith.

[Ted Evans]

What is the recommended way of handling the pith in an end grain turned vase/box/HF, if there is one? I have been practicing on limbs in the 3 to 6” size in which case, should the pith be cut out and plugged/laminated with solid wood, bottom turned to same thickness as walls and hope for the best, practice on something else, or other?

Thanks to all of you for posting the pictures and information that you do, it really helps those like me who are trying to learn.

Ted

[Bernie Weishapl]

On a vase or HF I try to get my wall thickness somewhere around 3/8" or a little less. I try to leave the bottom maybe a 1/2" or less. If I have the pith in the bottom most times I saturate it with thin CA. I have also mixed 5 minute epoxy and then mixed that with Denatured alcohol to the consistancy of milk. I then paint that on the bottom making sure to soak the pith till it won't soak anymore in. Leave it dry for 24 hrs and finish the bottom.

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

What is the recommended way of handling the pith in an end grain turned vase/box/HF, if there is one? I have been practicing on limbs in the 3 to 6” size in which case, should the pith be cut out and plugged/laminated with solid wood, bottom turned to same thickness as walls and hope for the best, practice on something else, or other?

Thanks to all of you for posting the pictures and information that you do, it really helps those like me who are trying to learn.

Ted
Ted
Most of my turnings are end grain hollowed vessels.
I always leave the pith in place.
However I will ALWAYS center the piece on the pith. When you hollow them you will remove all of the pith except for the very bottom.
This is usually some where around 5/8" or so when rough turning green wood. I will usually rough turn wall thickness to somewhere around 3/8" give or take a little depending on the overall size of the piece.
Also I air dry my rough turning, then return after they've dried.
I have had Great success with this process. However there a a few things to remember.
1) Limb wood usually carries a lot of stress & piths are usually far from centered. ( but always center your turnings on the pith)
2) There are no Guarantees against cracks or defects in any piece of wood.
3) Practice, Practice, Practice.

[Bob Boettcher]

One of the projects in a class with Jimmy Clewes was an end grain vase with a slender stem. He recommended setting the pith off center enough so it did not coincide with the stem. This is most important in woods like black walnut that have a 'pithy' pith, that is, mostly air. If that is in the stem, it will be too weak.
While he was demonstrating the project, he suddenly saw something in the thin stem that made him stop with a shout. It was a WORM HOLE exactly in the center of the stem, running side to side. Since it was so well centered, he continued the work, and finished the piece with the worm hole about half the diameter of the stem. Amazing.

Bob

[charlie knighton]

normally i turn hf end grain, i try to get a big enough piece that i can split it to one side of the pith

mesquite i will turn with the pith in, but i do not try to center it in the bottom, but to the side, and use about 1 1/2 diameter bottom

i prefer no pith in blank, usually do not do limbs, much prefer the stump, the closer to the roots the more minerals will be in the wood

i do not try to get a whole tree, much prefer 3 to 6 feet of trunk, try to have a choice of woods on hand at any time

[Joe Meirhaeghe]

I forgot to mention that I will also coat the outside & bottom inclucing the spigot of a vessel with ANCHORSEAL as soon as I'm finished roughing the piece.

Ted
Most of my turnings are end grain hollowed vessels.
I always leave the pith in place.
However I will ALWAYS center the piece on the pith. When you hollow them you will remove all of the pith except for the very bottom.
This is usually some where around 5/8" or so when rough turning green wood. I will usually rough turn wall thickness to somewhere around 3/8" give or take a little depending on the overall size of the piece.
Also I air dry my rough turning, then return after they've dried.
I have had Great success with this process. However there a a few things to remember.
1) Limb wood usually carries a lot of stress & piths are usually far from centered. ( but always center your turnings on the pith)
2) There are no Guarantees against cracks or defects in any piece of wood.
3) Practice, Practice, Practice.