setting (and holding) a mirror in a wood frame

[scott vroom]

I'm building 2 teak wood mirror frames. Each will hold a high quality 1/4" mirror glass. The frame stock is 13/16". The mirrors will set in a rabbet but I'm not sure of the best way to hold the mirror securely in place. I'm familiar with Glazing Points but am not sure how easy they will be to press into hard teak wood. Anyone with experience setting mirrors in hardwood frames?

Thanks-

[Jamie Buxton]

Glass grommet works very well. It is called glass retainer molding on this page:http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Fasteners%20%26%20Screws/CatID/Glass%2C%20Panel%20%26%20Mirror%20Clips/showprod/1.

It is a flexible plastic molding that press-fits into a slot in the wood frame. You can cut the slot with a table saw before you glue up the frame, or with a slot cutter on a router after glue-up. It is quick to install, and there's no hazard to the glass or the mirroring from installation tools.

I wouldn't use this stuff where it can be seen -- like the glass panels in kitchen doors -- but you have an ideal application for it.

[Phil Phelps]

I cut the rabbet deep enough for the eighth inch Masonite to lay against the mirror. Now you have several choices to use without worrying about damage to the mirror.

[Karl Brogger]

silicone. If you ever have to take it out, (unlikely), just cut the silicone and its free of the frame.

[Neil Brooks]

For mine, I inset with a rabbet, and then used 1/4" ply as backer board, screwed in to the stiles and rails:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_WVVYjLCNo2w/S66VCHmc46I/AAAAAAAAA7o/ex_tE8rk1m4/s512/Finished.JPG

[Richard M. Wolfe]

The glazier's points or different retainers will work but even if I use them I put a spot of silicone in a few places to hold glass or mirror to the frame. It keeps the glass from rattling and even if it turns loose the silicone spots act as bumpers if the frame is moved. Should the glass/mirror have to be replaced cutting a few spots loose is much easier than removing a full bead of silicone.