router table advice

[Zahid Naqvi]

I am going to be building a router table soon, need some advice from ones who have done this before.

1. Between polycarbonate and phenolic, which is a better material for the insert, and is 3/8 " thickness appropriate.
2. What is a good source to get T-tracks and knobs. Rockler has a 4' T-track and knobs set for $20, which is what I am inclining towards unless there is a cheaper alternative available.

thanks

[Steve Clardy]

There's probably a lot of router plates out there that are good.
If you are looking at Rocklers t-tracks and knobs, take a look at their alum. plates.
1/4" thick pre-drilled for a lot of different routers. I have three of their alum. plates.

[Michael Stafford]

Phenolic is better than polycarbonate but as Steve said aluminum is best- no sag...

[Tom LaRussa]

1. Between polycarbonate and phenolic, which is a better material for the insert, and is 3/8 " thickness appropriate.
I used poly, drilled it out myself, and still regret it. It's a real pain getting those holes placed precisely enough, plus countersinking just enough but not so much that the plate will crack when you tighten things up.

I'd at least partly with Steve, i.e., buy a predrilled plate if you can. What material to use depends on your router. If you have a monster then go with aluminum. Otherwise go with phenolic.



2. What is a good source to get T-tracks and knobs. Rockler has a 4' T-track and knobs set for $20, which is what I am inclining towards unless there is a cheaper alternative available.
There are quite a few sources for T-Track supplies, all of whom charge different prices for basically the same stuff, and some of whom have specials going on constantly. So it pays to shop around.

With that said, I'll paste in a few links for you to try. If you have trouble finding the T-Track stuff at any of these, try searching for "jig" and "fixture."

The names in bold are suppliers I have purched T-Track and/or other jig & fixture supplies from. Prairie River is one that runs good specials quite often, (including right now).

Prairie River Woodworking:
http://www.prairieriverwoodworking.com (http://www.prairieriverwoodworking.com/)

WoodPeck:
http://www.woodpeck.com (http://www.woodpeck.com/)

Peach Tree WW Supply:
http://www.ptreeusa.com/

Highland Hardware:
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com (http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/)

WoodWorkers' Supply:
http://www.woodworker.com (http://www.woodworker.com/)

Might-T-Track:
http://www.ttrackusa.com (http://www.ttrackusa.com/)

Woodhaven:
http://www.woodhaven.com (http://www.woodhaven.com/)

[Zahid Naqvi]

Tom, once again thanks for your detailed reply. I was not familiar with the prarie river site, interesting stuff. I saw some phenolic sheets going on clearance at some places just wasn't sure about drilling the screw holes my self. In light of your comments the predrilled sheets do make sense.


I used poly, drilled it out myself, and still regret it. It's a real pain getting those holes placed precisely enough, plus countersinking just enough but not so much that the plate will crack when you tighten things up.

I'd at least partly with Steve, i.e., buy a predrilled plate if you can. What material to use depends on your router. If you have a monster then go with aluminum. Otherwise go with phenolic.



Prairie River Woodworking:
http://www.prairieriverwoodworking.com (http://www.prairieriverwoodworking.com/)

[Jim Fancher]

I just bought a PC 895PK router kit after much research. I bought a Rockler predrilled plate for it too. It cost more than making one, but I devoted that time to building a router table and cabinet. Ok, I'm still working on it, but you get the idea. :D

The Rockler unit is pretty nice.

[Jerry Olexa]

There is an excellent book on building all the different variations of router tables by Bill Hylton. Called "Router Magic" I believe. Will cover 99% of the questions you asked. About $16 through Amazon. Great Book!1

[Ellen Benkin]

It sounds like Rockler has everything you need. If there is a store near you, go in and chat with them. They are usually knowledgeable and willing to help and able to suggest alternatives.

[Steve Beadle]

There is an excellent book on building all the different variations of router tables by Bill Hylton. Called "Router Magic" I believe. Will cover 99% of the questions you asked. About $16 through Amazon. Great Book!1
I will echo Jerry's praise of the book "Router Magic." It has about everything you need to know about making a router table and accessories. Some WW'rs would rather buy, but I enjoy making things for myself. Perhaps the truth is I'm too cheap to buy a pre-drilled router plate! :p

[George Tokarev]

As usual, dissenting voice. I got the phenolic round from Lee Valley, used their supplied drill/countersink , their circle-cutting jig, and it's a perfect fit and flush. Using their directions, it couldn't have been easier.

Then the second part. Why a T-track? Almost nothing you do on a router table isn't referenced to the bit itself, obviously, and it's circular in section, so an ad-hoc fence clamped anywhere will give you a groove parallel to whatever part of the work you reference to the fence. Perpendicular or any other angle is accomplished by a grooved plywood "sled" which rides a guide bushing, the angle depends on the fence.

[Steve Clardy]

As usual, dissenting voice. I got the phenolic round from Lee Valley, used their supplied drill/countersink , their circle-cutting jig, and it's a perfect fit and flush. Using their directions, it couldn't have been easier.

Then the second part. Why a T-track? Almost nothing you do on a router table isn't referenced to the bit itself, obviously, and it's circular in section, so an ad-hoc fence clamped anywhere will give you a groove parallel to whatever part of the work you reference to the fence. Perpendicular or any other angle is accomplished by a grooved plywood "sled" which rides a guide bushing, the angle depends on the fence.

Hello George. Question. Are you one of them guys that when everybody is loaded on the bus wanting to go eat, you are holding up the bus because you want to do something else??:eek::D:D
Steve:):):D:D

[Norman Hitt]

Hello George. Question. Are you one of them guys that when everybody is loaded on the bus wanting to go eat, you are holding up the bus because you want to do something else??:eek::D:D
Steve:):):D:D



Hey Steve, Guess I must be one O' them outta sync characters, 'cause I don't have or use any T Tracks on my router table either. Don't need 'em, with my set up.

Cheers.......Norm

[Steve Clardy]

Hey Steve, Guess I must be one O' them outta sync characters, 'cause I don't have or use any T Tracks on my router table either. Don't need 'em, with my set up.

Cheers.......Norm
Lol:D
Well I probably am outa sync also. At least my wife accuses me of being that way.:eek::confused:

[Bill Neely]

For aligning holes (for instance drilling a base plate) transfer punches are really useful and you can get the chinese made ones for about 10 bucks a set.

[Mike Kelly]

Zahid, another souce for building router tables is John McPherson's book, "Build Your Own Router Tables" which can be found at Woodworkers Book Club, F&W Publications, 1-800-289-0963 if it is still in print. Mine was inspired by him, but much modified, before beginning.

[Chris Padilla]

I use a t-track to hold feather boards all the time.

[George Tokarev]

Hello George. Question. Are you one of them guys that when everybody is loaded on the bus wanting to go eat, you are holding up the bus because you want to do something else??:eek::D:D
Steve:):):D:D

With my girth, it's obvious I'm seldom late for dinner. I am, however a fan of the KISS principle. I've seen router tables more elaborate and expensive than my shaper, and I've also watched "The Router Workshop" enough to know that fussing with microadjustable fences and such is both unnecessary and more time-consuming than working with ad hoc fences. Ever see an Incra-owner try to make box joints? What a hoot. I whip out a straddle fence on plywood and begin cutting within three minutes.

Besides, as I was reminded at some length, originality is prized here.

[Jim O'Dell]

I am going to be building a router table soon, need some advice from ones who have done this before.

1. Between polycarbonate and phenolic, which is a better material for the insert, and is 3/8 " thickness appropriate.
2. What is a good source to get T-tracks and knobs. Rockler has a 4' T-track and knobs set for $20, which is what I am inclining towards unless there is a cheaper alternative available.

thanks

Zahid, come to the woodworking show in Arlington, TX (between Dallas and Fort Worth) in December. I understand t-track is fairly cheap at this show. I'll be looking for some myself. Of course, your drive might negate any savings :D unless you find some machinery you're interested in!! Jim.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Jim,
I am planning to spend the Christmas break in Houston so I may be able to drive through Dallas area. But I have already ordered the T-tracks last night, got a few other friends together and we made a joint order at woodpeck.

I have also reached a decision to make the Ultimate router table from the Spielman book, Router Jigs and Techniques. Seems like a managable job for the basic table.


Zahid, come to the woodworking show in Arlington, TX (between Dallas and Fort Worth) in December. I understand t-track is fairly cheap at this show. I'll be looking for some myself. Of course, your drive might negate any savings :D unless you find some machinery you're interested in!! Jim.

[Jim Fancher]

For a temporary router table, I started out building the one in the latest issue of ShopNotes. Well, that was my intentions anyway. I was half way through and I stepped back to look at it. That was the precise moment something snapped in my head. What was intended to be a "throw away" table, ended up being a keeper. It looks <i>NOTHING</i> like the ShopNotes table.

When I complete it I'll post some pics. :)