Dispatches from the land of Jack Planes

[Jonathan McCullough]

Some unusual finds from today's haul.

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A basic Miller's Falls smoother. Although Miller's Falls is not far from here, I've never seen one of these in the wild; may have something to do with Stanley Works and Sargent being even closer. It's got a good, beefy casting and well-machined surfaces, just as I've heard. Although it doesn't have the famous articulated lever cap or even a frog-adjusting screw, it should make a really nice user once I get it shined up.


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Yer basic Stanley No. 7. I'm cleaning up a No. 6 with a broken & welded sole right now in order to make a dedicated scraper plane. I can tell you, the corrugation for the bigger planes aren't "go faster stripes." If you've ever lapped the sole of a 6 or bigger plane, you'll appreciate the corrugations. It's just that much less metal to get rid of. This No. 7 doesn't have them and I wish it did since it'll need to have the sole cleaned up. Still and all, it should make a good user and I've been waiting for one to come down the line for what seems like forever. I've got a No. 8 and I can see why some people would prefer a No. 7. The No. 8 is basically like one of those Sears Craftsman cast iron benchtop jointers turned upside down and with no electric motor. Or should I say, you are the motor.


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And today's real find, the No. 113. Never thought I'd see one except on ebay. It's a very complex creature, but verything works on it. Now know how to clean these up enough to get the bizarro crazy money on ebay, but since I don't have one, I think I'll use it first to see if I like it.

[Jim Koepke]

Some very nice finds.

I am curious about the type on the #7. It looks like there is a lateral adjuster lever peeking out from under the blade.

Is there patent information inside the brass adjuster?

The #113 also looks good. Be careful with the chip breaker. Even though the blades are the same size as a #3, the chip breaker has the depth adjustment hole in a different position. You don't want to get them mixed up.

And remember, the less you paid, the more YOU SUCK!:D

jtk

[george wilson]

I have a mint condition original package of Miller's falls plane irons,with several still in the package,like new. They are for something in jack plane size. I'd have to go measure them.

[Jonathan McCullough]

Thanks guys. Jim, from the type/dating flowchart on Hyperkitten dot com, it's a type 8. You're the type 7 admirer, right? The patent date on the lateral adjuster says 7-24-88; there are no ring castings around the front tote. There are no patent numbers on the casting. There is no frog adjusting screw. The frog is the nice machined flat type.

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On the 113, I remembered that Patrick Leach gave all sorts of caveats. I didn't remember what specifically, so I checked it over thoroughly to see that all the adjustments worked before I bought it. Adjusting the depth is a bit wonky but it does work. The whole plane is weird. And wonderful. It's surprisingly comfortable and looks like a Dr. Seuss-inspired conceptualization of a hand plane. Call it the Stanleyficus Zamcirculating Wood Roundulator. Paid $75 for it. I think it was a fair price considering I'll have to put a lot of work into it, so not a gloat really. I guess just finding it is noteworthy though. The No. 7 was $50. Again, fair both ways.

George, the iron on the Miller's Falls is 6 1/4 inches and is pretty rusty, but not yet pitted. Given the overall condition I'm not sure it's worth putting it into collector condition wholeness, but if you're offering I might bite. . . . however, let's not have a discussion here. There has been too much talk about plane irons around here lately!

Thanks again gents.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks guys. Jim, from the type/dating flowchart on Hyperkitten dot com, it's a type 8. You're the type 7 admirer, right? The patent date on the lateral adjuster says 7-24-88; there are no ring castings around the front tote. There are no patent numbers on the casting. There is no frog adjusting screw. The frog is the nice machined flat type.



On the 113, I remembered that Patrick Leach gave all sorts of caveats. I didn't remember what specifically, so I checked it over thoroughly to see that all the adjustments worked before I bought it. Adjusting the depth is a bit wonky but it does work. The whole plane is weird. And wonderful. It's surprisingly comfortable and looks like a Dr. Seuss-inspired conceptualization of a hand plane. Call it the Stanleyficus Zamcirculating Wood Roundulator. Paid $75 for it. I think it was a fair price considering I'll have to put a lot of work into it, so not a gloat really. I guess just finding it is noteworthy though. The No. 7 was $50. Again, fair both ways.

George, the iron on the Miller's Falls is 6 1/4 inches and is pretty rusty, but not yet pitted. Given the overall condition I'm not sure it's worth putting it into collector condition wholeness, but if you're offering I might bite. . . . however, let's not have a discussion here. There has been too much talk about plane irons around here lately!

Thanks again gents.

I have a type 7 #7 and a few type 6 planes. I do like the planes from that era. When a newer plane is found at a yard sale or auction, I tend to keep the older ones and sell the newer ones.

I could tell from the first photos that it was likely in the type 6-8 range. They use the same basic castings. The biggest difference is late in the type 6 run the depth adjuster was changed from right hand to left hand. The late type 6 has a dimple on some of the castings, type 7 has an "S" in the castings and the type 8 has a "B" in the castings. Sometimes they are missing on some of the parts. The folks at Stanley didn't know there were going to be all these type purist a century later.

Looks like you have a bit of work ahead of you to fix those deals up. My #7 was a bit less than what you paid, but now I wouldn't sell it for twice of what you paid.

One thing found in my fettling of old planes is that a paint job really doesn't do anything to improve the workings of a plane. It does a lot to improve one's appreciation of how it feels while it is being used. The feel of smooth paint along the sides and tips of you hands and fingers just feels a lot better than the feel of chipped paint.

jim

[Jonathan McCullough]

No doubt Jim. I used some high temp automotive paint on an old Sargent #3 and it came out looking just great, like new. I'm all about user planes so for me, aesthetics aside, a paint job is an anticorrosive protection.

And yes, I've got my work cut out for me. Beyond these, I've got a bzillion planes to clean up. I've been thinking about doing that and selling them. So I can buy more tools. I'm always learning something.

[Jim Koepke]

No doubt Jim. I used some high temp automotive paint on an old Sargent #3 and it came out looking just great, like new. I'm all about user planes so for me, aesthetics aside, a paint job is an anticorrosive protection.

And yes, I've got my work cut out for me. Beyond these, I've got a bzillion planes to clean up. I've been thinking about doing that and selling them. So I can buy more tools. I'm always learning something.

That is how I came up with the money to buy a new LN #62 and a few other tools.

It is kind of like recycling aluminum cans for spending money.

jim

[Jonathan McCullough]

Ooh yes. Made a trip up to Warren recently, or "Big Rock Candy Mountain, Maine," as I like to call it. Very nice people to do business with.

Have you ever taken the wooden tote off a #45 or #46? I've got a 46 I'd like to give "the business" but hesitate to drill through the rivet holding it on. It's in rough shape but get this, I got it for something like $12 off ebay and it works just fine. Great actually. While I'm at it, have you ever done any nickel plating or are there any shops you could recommend for that?

[Steve Costa]

You don't want to drill out the pin as finding another may a challenge. Having done this once I suggest that you place the pin over a hole of almost the same diameter and drive the pin through the opposite side of the handle. With luck there will be minimal tear out from the pin. Getting the pins back where they came from may also be an issue.

If you want to refinish the handle just sand to your satisfaction and apply the finish of your choice. A lot less time & work.

[James Taglienti]

Was that a millers falls 9 or a 10? it looks wide like a 10 (4 1/2 size)

[Jonathan McCullough]

Hi James, I know, it's a Boss MF plane, but it's really just a #4 size. I measured the blade--it's 2" across, but the casting is so big and beefy that it looks like a 4 1/2. I double checked the mouth just to make sure it wasn't a 2" blade in a 4 1/2 size plane.

Steve, that's a good point but on my #46 the rivet only goes through one side of the handle. There's really no other way that I can see to remove the tote from the handle part of the casting. I think the rivet may actually be threaded on the inside end and peined over and filed on the outside.

[Jim Koepke]

I think the rivets in the handles of the #45, 46 and other planes of that style may actually be electro welded or something. I bought a #55 that had a replaced handle that is held in place with screws.

Not sure if they can be cut with some kind of blade slipped in between the handle and the metal to cut the pins.

I have actually done electro-plating. I used to work in a printed circuit board shop.

I have thought of trying to do some. I think it would make those lever caps and lateral adjusters just pop with luster. Just recently bought a battery charger, so watch out world.

If this happens my progress will be posted.

jim

[george wilson]

I do electro plating. Your anode must have as large,or larger a surface than you are plating. Do not try to get around this fact.

I use only about 2 volts,though I overbought an expensive power supply with variable voltage. Nickel solution from Rio Grande jewelry supply isn't too expensive,and plates very easily. Buy yourself a nickel 200 anode (pure nickel) from MSC co. Make sure it is nickel 200 wherever you buy it.

You'll also need some copper sulfate plating solution from Rio Grande,and a copper anode as big as your biggest object. Plate copper under nickel for best results.

If you plate gold,always plate nickel under it,or the base metal may bleed through the gold slowly. Gold solution is well over $100.00 for a quart. Haven't priced it lately.

Chrome is completely different,and I don't mess with it. The chrome solution is not replenished by the anode. You use a titanium anode. When the solution is drained of chrome,you have a poisonous solution to get rid of. Chrome plating in the USA is getting harder and harder to get done due to the pollution it causes.

[Dan Carroll]

George, I would be interested in the irons. Most of my planes are either Miller Falls or Sargent. Seems my grandfather just preferred them for some reason.