Extending Table Saw Fence Rails

[James Malcolm]

Has anyone ever seen or devised their own method for extending the rails for their table saw fence? Due to limited space in my basement and support post that's just killing me, I don't have room for a nice big 48+" cut capable table saw. I'm sure that ~36" will be more than enough for 99.9% of my projects, but it would be nice to have the extra capacity.

My idea is to build a router table cabinet the same height and depth as the table saw, mounting extra rails to it and devising a clamping and alignment system to hold it square to the table saw. The other idea is to get 7' rails for the table saw and swapping out the stock length ones whenever I need to use this configuration. I just worry that I'll need to realign my fence everytime I do this.

I'm flip-flopping back and forth between a Grizzly G0661, G01023RL or a G0690. Local used equipment dealer has an "as is" G01013RL for $650, but no pictures or details. If someone wants to add reasons why I should select one over the other or suggest another brand/model that would be more conducive to me idea, please feel free. Like I said above, 36" should be more than enough for 99.9% of my projects, so I'm sort of leaning towards the G0661 but that price for a 1023RL might be too good to pass up. But only having 26" of capacity on the 1023RL will limit me greatly I feel. For the life of me, I can't figure out why a 1023RL is less than a G0690, but a 1023RLX is more than a G0691. Thanks.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Exactly how are you going to keep additions aligned. Some fence rails can be shifted to the right. Most tee square type fences use a stock shape for rails. Biesmeyer uses a 2 X 3, 14 gauge tube, as an example.

[Chip Lindley]

James, spend the $bucks$ and find a 50" fence to your liking. Cut the rails to the length you can handle. You can sell your present fence and rails to help defray the cost. Any fence in two pieces will not likely stay aligned and be much more trouble than it's are worth (IMHO)

[Don Morris]

I know what you mean about limited space hindering long rails. Your idea of router table at the same height is what a lot of us have done. I went the route of mobile router cabinet made to the same height as my TS and a mobile work bench that can also be brought up to my foldable outfeed table, as it is also at the same height. If not mobile, they can be made exactly the same height. Mobile...they may be fractions off, but just fractions, and that can be accommodated. Rarely, have I found that now I don't have enough total area needed. Actually, the room width is the limiting factor as I can just put the TS, router table and work bench side by side having to squeeze past on one side. The mobility of the router table, and work bench has been useful in a small space.

[Brian Penning]

If you get the longer rails, cut them and the support table to the length you can handle as stated above, BUT make a piece of hardwood as a connector to fit inside the cut tubes. You can do without the cut part of the support table.
You could probably permanently attach the hardwood to the cut tube and simply "plug" it into the saw's rail tube when you need it.
Hope I made myself understood.

[Cary Falk]

If you get the longer rails, cut them and the support table to the length you can handle as stated above, BUT make a piece of hardwood as a connector to fit inside the cut tubes. You can do without the cut part of the support table.
You could probably permanently attach the hardwood to the cut tube and simply "plug" it into the saw's rail tube when you need it.
Hope I made myself understood.

I would think the hardwood plug would have to be so tight to eliminate play during use that it would be hard to insert. The saws listed by the OP have Beisemeyer clones that require a table or rear rail for the fence support. I thought about a hinged table/rail but I think that this would also lack the required accuracy. I agree with the other poster that this is more trouble than it is worth. Iwould just use a straight edge and a circular saw.

[Don Jarvie]

If you don't plan to use the fence to the left of the blade, you can shift your fence rails to the right and get the self stick tape and replace your tape.

I have a Cman 24/24 so I removed the tape and shifted the fence to the right so I have 40 to the right of the blade.

While I would have liked a Bies fence this was 10 bucks for the tape.

[James Malcolm]

The devil is always in the details, which I haven't worked out yet, but here's what I've been thinking.

I can't found a router table top or extension that fits my desires that will fit the Jointech Smart Lift Digital I've had my eye on, so I will need to make my own or have one made. I have access to a Bridgeport mill or can have the part precision made. In either case, the 3 edges and miter slot would have to be flat, perpendicular and parallel for this to work.

I bolt up the 7' rails or some other straight guide to the table, position the router table, make a jig with two runners attached that fit snug in the miter slots. The jig will only slide freely when the two miter slots are parallel.

Since my floor is far from flat and level, both units would need to be on leveling feet anyways and wheels to move them since my shop is so small. I was thinking I would mount an angle or series of angles, plates, whatever to both the table saw top and router table such that my locating surfaces sit on top of each other. Use fixturing balls and sockets, dowel pins or similar to locate my horizontal plane position, butt them up against each other to locate my vertical position The table saw rails would extend out past the table so that I have reasonable cut length without going through all this hassle, so that would help line it up. Just jack one up on the leveling feet, bring the other in underneath, jack it up into position and then level the other end. The jig I used to align the miter slots before would be saved and used to ensure they are aligned again.

Again, the devil is always in the details. Was hoping someone else had done something similar so I could borrow some ideas. Thanks for the responses.

The other idea is to just bolt on the 50" rails when I need them, but I suspect that the fence would need to be realigned. I've never owned a real table saw, just a POS Lowes el-cheapo. Maybe it's not as bad as I envision.

[Wayne Jolly]

I had a dilema similar to yours. My TS is a Craftsman that came with one of those 24x24 Align-A-Rip fence systems. 24" just wasn't enough, but I did not have space for a 50". Also, when I checked the Align-A-Rip for accuracy, it sucked. The fence itself had a .030" cup in it, and when locked down it was at least .020" out of alignment being wider at the back. That was hard to get a good reading on since the fence wasn't straight. I had to clamp on a straight edge.

One day at Lowes (might have been Home Depot) I found the Delta T-2 fence on sale for $125 with 30" rails. I bought it and when I got it home I decided that 30" just wasn't enough so I made my own fence rails. I went to my local metal supplier and bought some 2"x2" square tubing (that is what the Delta fence uses), and some 1" heavy angle iron for the back and went at it. What I ended up with was 44" rails and a very accurate fence. When done, there is less than .001" deflection of the fence when locked down, and it is straight with the blade. The fence itself was dead flat, straight and parallel.

When combined with two sets of PALS that I also made, I wound up with a saw that gives me very good results. I just need to work on the miter gauge.

Wayne

[scott vroom]

I own a Griz G0690. I moved my rails one hole to the right and added about 8" rip capacity. It was easy, just had to drill 2 holes in the cast iron (drills easily).