#4 or #4-1/2 smoothing plane?

[Bruce Delaney]

I'm starting to add some planes to my toolbox and am shopping for a #60-1/2 LA block (to augment my Stanley HA block), a #5 jack, maybe a #7 jointer at some point, and definitely a #4 or #4-1/2 smoother. It is the last one I'm pondering over.

What do you prefer as a smoothing plane and why? A #4 or a slightly bigger and heavier #4-1/2? If the slippery slope has its way, I may eventually end up with both but right now I have only room for one of them. I understand that the #4 is slightly smaller and lighter and therefore more maneuverable than the #4-1/2 and that some feel the added weight is too tiresome after a while, whereas the extra heft of the #4-1/2 is preferred by others as it adds to the momentum while planing. I have had both kinds in my hands and the extra weight of the #4-1/2 doesn't seem too bad but then I haven't used it during a whole day of planing to be able to tell whether it may become uncomfortable.

So my question to you: which smoothing plane would you pick if you could choose only one, the #4 or the #4-1/2? I'd appreciate your feedback!

[Tyler Howell]

#4 for the reasons you gave!

[Steve Wargo]

It's a little wider, heavier, and I don't mind the extra work. Mine is also bedded at 50 deg. As long as it's being used to smooth and taking a fine cut then there is usually not too much effort involved in planing with it. It's the Jack plane that tires me out. Hope this helps. FWIW, I don't even own a 4.

[Tom LaRussa]

I understand that the #4 is slightly smaller and lighter and therefore more maneuverable than the #4-1/2 and that some feel the added weight is too tiresome after a while, whereas the extra heft of the #4-1/2 is preferred by others as it adds to the momentum while planing.
Yep. That's about the size ... er ... weight ... of it. :D




So my question to you: which smoothing plane would you pick if you could choose only one, the #4 or the #4-1/2? I'd appreciate your feedback!
I have a #4.

Why?

Not sure, really. Prolly just because the 4 1/4 seems too close in size/weight to the #5, which I also have.

Eventually I'll probably wind up with a 4 1/2, but then I'll have to get a #3 as well, just to balance things out. :D

One other thing. Don't forget to grab some woodies.

[Scott Quesnelle]

Question for you:

Are you buying new or old?

If old, then you are far more likely to find a #4 than a 4 1/2.

If buying new then you have the choice of either.

I personally have a #3, #4, two #5s and a wooden jointer. Those are my standard bench planes. I also have a few wooden smoothers though.

My vote is for a #4. The only other bonus for a 4 1/2 is the wider blade. But that is also a down side when getting it sharpened.

[Joel Moskowitz]

#4 but don't listen to me - try both pick the one that fits your hand better, blanaces better and feels right. Also consider a #3 I know many hwho find it the right smoother for them.
.

[Mark Singer]

I perfer a #4 and actually a woodie the ECE Primus . It is lighter and less fatiquing. It is great to adjust ...a slight turn makes a fine difference ...no backlash. The Clifton #4 is nice ...but not quite like the Primus. I have a nice old Sargent #3 and I do use it once ina while .

[Richard Gillespie]

Bruce,

Each to his own, I have both. I find, for me, the 4-1/2 Stanley and Miller Falls #10 give me better results. Though the blade is 3/8" wider than a #4, you are taking such a light cut there is little resistance difference. Once started, the mass difference assists in handling any weird grain. After I got my first 4-1/2, I stopped using my #3 and #4.

Another plane you might want to consider is the LV Low Angle Smoother. With an added high angle blade this is a multi purpose plane. It can be used as a smoother and a miter plane. I have two extra high angle blades, one ground at a York pitch (50 degrees) and the other is at 60 degrees. I found that the low angle blade will get under some grain patterns and lift rather than cut. However, the low angle blade does a good job with miter cuts.

[Pam Niedermayer]

I perfer a #4 and actually a woodie the ECE Primus . It is lighter and less fatiquing. It is great to adjust ...a slight turn makes a fine difference ...no backlash. The Clifton #4 is nice ...but not quite like the Primus. ...

I agree on the Primus, great plane, good ergonomics, adjustable mouth. I don't use one, made the choice of Japanese smoothers before I tried the Primus, didn't see a need to buy another, plus the dollar to euro relationship adjusted itself in the euro's favor. However, a fellow in one of my woodworking classes brought his in, let me use it to smooth a panel, sweet. I do use an ECE jointer.

Pam

[Derek Cohen]

Bruce

Logically, a choice between a #4 and a #4-1/2 should be determined by the work you do. The #4 is smaller and lighter and, thus, better suited to narrower pieces. The #4-1/2 is a more natural choice for wide areas, such as a table top.

Don't rule out a #3 if you like smaller planes. Some prefer this over all others.

In reality everything comes down to personal preference. Some like the heft of the #4-1/2 as it imparts extra momentum as you plane, and this can drive the blade through more demanding timbers. My personal preference is a #4, as I like the lightness when skimming the timber as a final smoother.

Having said this, I don't use a #4 as a final smoother. Mine is set up as a general workhorse. My #4-1/2 (plus Clifton blade and chipbreaker) is set up as a smoother. However, I do use several #4-sized planes when smoothing. These include a HNT Gordon Smoother (with 60 degree cutting angle - necessary for demanding Aussie timber), Bed Rock #604 (with LN blade and chipbreaker), Mujingfang Smoother, and LV LA (bevel up) Smoother (with 45 and 64 degree blades). These provide a wide choice for different timbers. No doubt, as you extend your experience with hand tools, you'll end up with more and more smoothers as well. If I were you, I'd probably opt for a #4 since this is more comfortable than a #4-1/2 (unless you are built like Arnie).

Regards from Perth

Derek