Repair cracks in white oak?

[Braden Nichols]

I bought some kiln dried rough cut white oak for a project. It has been in my garage/shop for over a month now and when i went to mill it up I realized that there are quite a few cracks in the boards. These cracks are throughout the boards.
Are these usable boards? Can I fill these cracks with epoxy or CA glue and continue on?

[Peter Quinn]

Fill cracks and checks in white oak? Least best option IME and IMMHO. Best option, cut them out. If they run the length, rip on a bandsaw and reglue if possible, jointing after ripping. Dumping epoxy into cracks and checks has proven to be messy, not 100% effective, and possibly more expensive than the actual wood for some species depending on the extent of filling required.

If you give it a go, use something like west systems, try to lever or wedge open the cracks a bit to get some adhesive in there, put tape on the side facing down so it doesn't all drip out, and cross your fingers on both hands and at least one foot. The fingers thing is important. I have also used tite bond III thinned 15% with water and a syringe to good effect on boards that could be clamped to produce pressure.

[Russell Sansom]

I have the same problem from 10 years ago. In some cases when the crack runs top to bottom of a 2" board I've been able to fracture the board ( at the crack, of course ) then reglue with a little creative clamping. The two pieces usually mate perfectly. Then I re-joint where there is inevitably a ledge.
Glue in the cracks hasn't worked very well for me. Air pressure keeps the glue out. Or glue can't turn the necessary corners. Nevertheless, the occasional 1" board works well for construction, despite the checks.

[David Nelson1]

Fill cracks and checks in white oak? Least best option IME and IMMHO. Best option, cut them out. If they run the length, rip on a bandsaw and reglue if possible, jointing after ripping. Dumping epoxy into cracks and checks has proven to be messy, not 100% effective, and possibly more expensive than the actual wood for some species depending on the extent of filling required.

If you give it a go, use something like west systems, try to lever or wedge open the cracks a bit to get some adhesive in there, put tape on the side facing down so it doesn't all drip out, and cross your fingers on both hands and at least one foot. The fingers thing is important. I have also used tite bond III thinned 15% with water and a syringe to good effect on boards that could be clamped to produce pressure.

About doing the same thing. I have a bunch of 100 year old oak that was the attic floor in a old home. Most of the boards are cracked or checked badly. I will have to cut around a bunch. Mostly got this wood for the distressed look. Quite a few of the planned project will be enhanced by those defects.

How much luck have you had gluing then clamping the cracks as you mentioned?

[Peter Quinn]

It has been hit and miss really. I've bent a board over a caul with a clamp to open up cracks without actually seperating into two pieces and drizzles in some thinned tite bond. Some boards work, some recrack or fall apart anyway. I've had to make a few things at work with reclaimed oak and there is usually at least some "consolidation" involved. You can only try and see what works.

Epoxy usually works decent but it's messy and dificult to clean up. Nice part is it fills small gaps and doesn't require pressure for bond strength if clamping is not possible.

[Cody Colston]

I bought some kiln dried rough cut white oak for a project. It has been in my garage/shop for over a month now and when i went to mill it up I realized that there are quite a few cracks in the boards. These cracks are throughout the boards.
Are these usable boards? Can I fill these cracks with epoxy or CA glue and continue on?

It sounds to me like the wood was dried unevenly which will results in check, cracks and case-hardening. I think I would consider trying to get the supplier to replace it or give a refund. If it is a drying defect, you will probably also experience warping when it is milled to final dimension.

[Howard Acheson]

I'm with Cody if the cracks are relatively short and and spread throughout both sides of the board. This is an indication of improper kiln drying and are quite common with oak.

If however, the cracks are in the ends of the board, you can cut them out and use it.

[David Nelson1]

Hey Pete, thanks for the response I'll let ya'll know how it goes as it goes LOL

[Jim Eller]

Can it "add" to the "design" of the project if you just leave them there and finish over them? Anyone done this?

A "weathered" look??:rolleyes:

I have some just like it but haven't used any.

[David Nelson1]

Depends on what your making I recon. I wouldn't try it for a table or a chair, but a tool chest or an early styled filing cabinet. I guess I saying that the if cracks are not load bearing or near supporting structure I see no s=reason why you can't. I'm no expert so I'm sure someone will point out the cons.