making beadboard questions

[Rick Moyer]

I plan on making a beadboard panel from a flat surface panel. does anyone have a recommendation on how? Should I dado grooves first then use a router, or is there some recommended router bit to use?



extra info if you're interested:

I tore out the old vanity in the upstairs bathroom. It had wall tile surrounding the side walls and back wall above the sink/countertop. The new vanity and countertop is slightly narrower than the wall space. I want to cover the wall space surrounding the new vanity with beadboard (I will use a smooth poly panel that I can get and make the requisite design in it) instead of putting tile back on. This will give me a beadboard wainscot without having to resurface the walls for tile. The panel will be of a poly material and works like wood. I have used similar to make adirondack chairs previously so I know I can route it, etc. I am looking for recommendations on technique and router bit selection. Thanks.

[Jason Strauss]

Rick,

This is probably more money than you're looking to spend for this project, but I really like my Magic Molder (search for it on Amazon.com). Mine cost around $200 for the wheel and appropriate cutting heads. It made beautiful beads in the glued up solid hickory panels I used in a recent kitchen cabinet project.

All that said, If you're looking at painting the surface, I would just buy some premade TandG boards. This will be much cheaper.

Good luck!

[Lex Boegen]

The bit that you want for beading panels looks something like a v-point bit, but it has a radius in it rather than a straight "V". (If the bit has a bearing, it's the wrong type of beading bit for this operation.) You run the panels (or boards) flat on the table against a fence. I don't know how thick the poly panels are that you plan on using, but you could join the panels together with a tounge-and-groove joint (best), or a half-lap or even a butt-joint. You could also do the tounge-and-groove and half-lap joints on the router table too, using only a straight bit (or spiral cutter). You'd need to run the panels on edge to cut the groove (for T&G), or use a slot-cutter of the right width if you wanted to keep the panels flat on the table for that operation too.

[Karl Brogger]

Magic moulder is da' bomb. So is the magic shaper head. I'm quickly accruing a small fortune in plugs.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs069.snc3/13662_1219224811991_1570037517_30566192_2930935_n. jpg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs069.snc3/13662_1219226372030_1570037517_30566200_4468911_n. jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs049.snc3/13662_1206717259310_1570037517_30539031_822138_n.j pg

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs069.snc3/13662_1206704138982_1570037517_30539002_2018886_n. jpg

[Glen Butler]

I have very little bead board to make at the moment so I purchased the freud 20-301 in hopes that it would do the job adequately. If not I was going to purchase the magic molder. I'm glad to see others are getting excellent results from it.

[Tom Lowry]

I needed oak bead board and couldn't find it local. I ended up resawing some 3/4 stock and cutting 1/4 lap joints in the planks. I then ran it through the router table with a Bosch 1/8 beading bit and planked the back of my project with it.

Turned out good enough to please the misses, and we know that's what counts. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/DesertSkies/smileys/thumb.gif

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/DesertSkies/Wod%20Werkin/IMG_7698800.jpg

[Dennis Lopeman]

AWESOME - I actually read about this in the past, and put it in the back of my mind!! Magic Molder...

And WOW - those are some awesome upgrade photos up there!!! Gonna put my upgrades to shame!

[Rick Moyer]

I guess I still didn't give enough info. The panel comes in a 4X8 sheet, which I will cut down to three pcs. to surround the vanity. So, each piece will be roughly 4 ft high by 3 ft wide.
The magic moulder looks to be the ticket but not where I'm going right now. Will look into a router bit.

[Steve Schoene]

You can, of course, buy already shaped bead board panels, in either PVC (Kleer or Azak) or in moisture resistant MDF, for much less work.

[Rick Moyer]

You can, of course, buy already shaped bead board panels, in either PVC (Kleer or Azak) or in moisture resistant MDF, for much less work.

did not see them anywhere locally. I need 3/8" thickness to make up the gap between the countertop and wall. Would definitely save some work.

[Rick Moyer]

Not finding what I need. Any suggestions? I want to be able to make a bead down the middle of a panel.

[Glen Butler]

Then you'll either need the magic molder or the router bit I mentioned above with a straight edge clamped to the material.

[Steve Schoene]

You won't find that sort of quality at any of the big boxes, but check out a real lumber yard. I'm in CT and have the choice of several patterns of 1/2" thick bead board panels. Two sizes in 1/2" moisture resistant MDF, and also the Kleer beadboard panel with 2" spaced beads (though the Kleer is a bit pricey at $149.) The company my local chain uses is "Nantucket Beadboard", and a checking their webpages, www.beadboard.com (http://www.beadboard.com) shows about half a dozen retailers in PA though I don't know if any are near you.

[david brum]

I've used these bits with good success. My router table is in the tablesaw's wing, so I was able to use the tablesaw fence as a guide. Pretty easy after you lay out your spacing.http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_groove.html
(http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_groove.html)

[Chip Lindley]

That MLCS 1/8" beading bit looks like the ticket to me! You have a relatively small amount of beadboard to make for your vanity backspash. An accurate jig for guiding your router to make double grooves, equally spaced will either make or break your attempt. Good luck!