Air Filter / Suggestions

[Gary Groves]

I started building my router table this past weekend. I'm building the one from the american woodwork router book. Things have gone well but, I generated a tremendous amount of ambiate sawdust.

I'm in my closed garage. Between the TS and routing the dadoes and rabbets, the air is thick with sawdust. I actually broke out a mask to help breath.

Part of the problem is that neither the contractor TS or router have and DC capability.

So, I'm thinking at minimum I can add one of the ceiling mounter air filters. I'm going to also try and build an enclosure for my ts and at least hook up the shop vac to it while cutting.

Any recommendation for which type to get?

[Sam Chambers]

Gary:

The air filter will help, but IMHO, you really need to focus on capturing the dust at the source. You didn't mention whether you have a dust collector or not, but that's where I'd start.

I have a Delta Contractor's Saw, and while it didn't come from the factory with dust collection capabilities, I've added them. It's not too hard to do, really. Just cut a piece of plywood that'll sandwich between the saw and the stand. Cut a hole in the middle and mount a 4" dust collection hood - either one made specifically for table saws or a smaller universal one. Then enclose the back of the saw with pieces of thin plywood, hardboard, or even stiff cardboard.

Routing can be a very dusty business. Some routers have an optional accessory baseplate to add dust collection capability. Check and see if there's one available for your router. (Leigh makes one that works when edge routing, but not when cutting dados.) In my case, the dus collection fittings on my routers are rather small, so they can't be hooked up to the big dust collector. I use a shop vac for them.

I'm sure others will chime in. Hope this helps.

[Marc Spagnuolo]

Gary,

Sam is right on. If you are not collecting the dust at the source, you might be spinning your wheels. Apparently those ambient air filters are only effective after the dust production has stopped completely. They basically stir up the air until it either settles or is sucked up and caught in the filter. But, of course, getting a dust collector set up and running properly is a significantly greater time and money investment. In fact, I got my air cleaner before my dust collector. Sometimes the wallet dictates the rules. :) So I will recommend the Jet air cleaner. It has a remote and timer settings, as well as 3 speeds. I get replaceable filters and the big box stores. I am very happy with the unit overall. But it wasnt until I got into true dust collection that the air was finally cleared. :)

[Scott Parks]

I tried to enclose my C'man saw and use a shop vac. It wasn't very effective. There just wasn't enough airflow. I feel it also needed a guard hooked up to a DC.

[Greg Narozniak]

This is my old Contractor Saw that I added the Shop Notes #50 base to. Helped the DC on the TS big time I only wish I made the dust port 6" instead of 4" but it was a great project and helped the funtionality of the saw. The original plan had the router side open but I closed it in and it worked great!

[Jerry Olexa]

Sam gave you good advice, The DC should come BEFORE the air cleaner. You need to get @ the source before its airborne. If a cyclone is cost prohibitive , I reco a 1.5-2.0 hp single stage but upgrade your bags to a cannister from Wynn or the .3 bags from Grizzly and others, A pre-separator is inexpemsive and could also be helpful..

[Gary Groves]

Thanks for the advice. I like the idea of building up the TS Base from the Shopsmith. I think I might have that issue.

The only reason I'm not doing a cyclone is I currently do all the work in the garage and I'm planning on building a stand alone shop eventually. So right now, everything has to be mobile and space is at a premium. I'll just have to buy the 1.5 - 2.00 HP dc and roll it from station to station.

Hand routing will probably continue to be an issue. But when I complete the router table, that will have some DC built in.

Thanks again.