end grain issues with black walnut

[Roger Chandler]

I am currently working on a black walnut hollow form. I cut the logs in March '09 and sealed the ends with Anchorseal. Today, I cut some of them into halves, and made some blanks on the bandsaw.

While turning, I have had a lot of end grain issues, like fuzzing and some tear out, and a good bit of the sap wood is a little punky. I have sharpened my gouges several times, and even tried going both ways with the direction of the cut, and it is better one way than the other, but it seems there is more fuzzing or tearout than I am used to.

I was wondering if this is a characteristic of the growth patterns in walnut. I have turned walnut several times in the past, and had to deal with some punky wood, and some of the same fuzzing issues on end grain, but not this bad.

Am I doing something wrong in my technique, or is this the nature of the walnut itself? The log pieces were cut to about 12-14 inches long, and have been stored outside my shop in the shade, elevated off the ground, on pressure treated runners supported by concrete blocks. http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/images/smilies/confused.gif

[John Keeton]

Roger, I have worked a lot with walnut over the years, but only in flatwork, and it was dry. But, I can tell you that the walnut is no where near dry having been cut and sealed a year ago. So, you are experiencing pretty much the characteristics of wet walnut, and that is pretty accurate in my limited experience. But, I have only finish turned wet walnut on one occasion, and rough turned a couple of bowls.

Great wood to work with when it is dry, but it can be a challenge when wet.

I did find that a more precise "sweet spot" was called for on the gouge, and that did help. You may want to play around with the tool rest position, etc.

[John Hart]

One thing that works with the fuzzies....is the magic epoxy cocktail. Get some 5 minute clear epoxy...mix it up real good....then add some methanol or alcohol to it so it is less viscous. Then brush this into the end grain where you have the fuzzies....let it soak in real good. Let it cure. Then do the finish turning.
The epoxy will stiffen up the end grain and any punky wood. Of course...your choice of finishes will need to be compatible with the epoxy.

This works good on rotten wood too.

[Bernie Weishapl]

That's funny John. I still use the old epoxy cocktail. Roger it does work pretty well. Walnut can be funny like John K. said. Wet it can leave a fuzzy surface but after you have let it dry and returned it to the lathe it will turn out fine. Also like was said your walnut is not dry by any stretch. I would either turn it to final thickness or leave the thickness at 10% and let it dry. Then return it to the lathe to finish.

[Roger Chandler]

Bernie, John K. and John H,

Thanks for the input. I hope I don't end up with cracking because I have already started the hollowing process, with a one inch hole drilled down the center, and some hollowing with a bowl gouge.

I only have a Sorby Hollowmaster [large goosneck] and know I will have a hard time getting a consistent wall thickness because of the severe angle at the edge [ like a flying saucer that goes sharply down to the foot.]

The form is about 9" wide by 5" high, and I want to put on a maple or red oak collar, then a lid with a finial [probably cherry] I think this is going to be a tough shape to get near perfect.