Mandrel for Support of Turning Long Spindles

[Mike Turner]

I turn long spindles for making flutes. ..Turnings are often a little over 30". I have a lathe steady but was wondering about making a mandrel which would have a threaded rod going through it that would basically sandwich my turning and support it more and help some with whip...I have turned down some pieces for both ends to fit these tubes and thought about using a 3/8" threaded rod to tie them together...The only problem is I have an older Craftsman lathe and cant drill/bore and so being real accurate may be a problem drilling the holes for the rods...Any help/ other ideas would be appreciated !!! Thanks Mike

[Paul Atkins]

Are the blanks hollow before you turn them? How are they hollowed out to size? I don't think a 3/8" threaded rod would help with whip. In fact, if it was not perfectly centered it would whip even worse due to the weight of the metal. I think a good center rest would be the best - maybe even two for a 30 inch turning.

[Mike Turner]

Are the blanks hollow before you turn them? How are they hollowed out to size? I don't think a 3/8" threaded rod would help with whip. In fact, if it was not perfectly centered it would whip even worse due to the weight of the metal. I think a good center rest would be the best - maybe even two for a 30 inch turning.

You are probably right Paul...I was just thinking ...I know a full time flute maker that uses some type of mandrel which helps him a lot but I didnt try to dig any info from him...He said it changed his life and thats all he does fulltime..,He says it makes things a lot easier for him
I start with 2 pieces of 1 1/2 " wide by 3/4" thick by 31 " long pieces and use a core box bit (either 7/8", 3/4") and rout half the bore in each and then glue them together.I have been using a router to shape the exterior but have started with the lathe just recently

[Ken Fitzgerald]

If it was a full sized mandrel, it might help as long as one didn't put too much pressure on it.

Say for instance if the bore of the flute was 0.75 inches and you used a piece of rod 3/4" in diameter it might help.


You might get by using a smaller sized mandrel if you had a tapered nut which you could turn so the taper centered the flute body on the mandrel as you tightened the nut.

Regardless.....when using a mandrel on anything...IMHO too much pressure will cause whip......JMHO.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

A sliding steady that follows you were you have turned to size already would keep the piece pretty steady I would think.
Having a carriage like on a metal lathe would make it easy to keep moving the steady rest, just an idea ;-))

[Marvin Hasenak]

I make game calls and make my own mandrels. What I would do is make a 1/2" or 5/8" mandrel with a threaded end with a 60 degree dimple. It will be like a giant pen mandrel. Then 2 wooden plugs to fit the inside of the ends of your blank. The plugs you will need to play with as to the length because the hole you have made will change with weather, humidity etc. so fitting them might be a problem. I can make a goose flute with a 9" exhaust, and I think it would work on 30".

PM me your email, I may have a photo if you want to look at what I am trying to explain.

Marvin