Morse Taper

[Greg Taylor]

Can anyone help me with a Morse taper question please? I recently bought my first lathe...a Delta Midi 46-460. I'm having fun starting out and I've decided to purchase a drill chuck for the stuff I want to try to do (jewelery, small vases, etc.). I think the 46-460 requires a #2 taper because that's what I remember someone telling me...but I can't find the spec. anywhere in the manual. Does anyone know for sure? #1 or #2? Thanks in advance.

[Sid Matheny]

It is a #2 MT.

Sid

[Joe Wiliams]

Specs can be found here:)

http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=19220

[Greg Taylor]

Thanks guys!

[Joe Wiliams]

Are you from the Portland, Oregon area?

[Greg Taylor]

No Saint Louis, MO

[Tim Rinehart]

Greg,
I have one of the Delta 46-460's also, and recently tried inserting my Jacobs chuck with 2MT into the drive spindle. It appears that there is a shoulder down inside that drive spindle that doesn't allow the 2MT on the drill chuck to seat completely, without modifying (i.e shortening) the chuck.

This likely only requires removal of the 'flat' area at the top of the taper on the drill, something you may find you need to do for inserting in the tail stock as well...though the problem is more pronounced on the drive side.

Here's something to think about if you have to do that, as I was talking to one of our club members who is very knowledgeable on good machining practices, and brought up several issues with use of chucks when turning, among them, that the 2MT is not sufficient in most cases to provide positive engagement and prevention of that fit coming loose while turning.

Most likely, the 2MT quill on the chuck is case hardened, which means only the outer portion of it is hardened, and the inside is relatively soft. After getting rid of the section of your chuck that may interfere with a good fit, you should be able to drill and tap it (say 1/4"x20 TPI) and then use a piece of all thread to help secure the chuck in the drive.

I use a similar technique to hold my buffing system in place, which came with a threaded hole already in the end of the 2MT quill.

If your chuck already has this feature great...if you haven't bought one yet...consider that.

Good luck,
Tim

[Bob Haverstock]

Can anyone help me with a Morse taper question please? I recently bought my first lathe...a Delta Midi 46-460. I'm having fun starting out and I've decided to purchase a drill chuck for the stuff I want to try to do (jewelery, small vases, etc.). I think the 46-460 requires a #2 taper because that's what I remember someone telling me...but I can't find the spec. anywhere in the manual. Does anyone know for sure? #1 or #2? Thanks in advance.


Greg,

Good ol' Harbor Freight has a chuck, key and, #2 Morse taper for 8 bucks. For that price you can't hardly go wrong. About month ago I bought 3 while I was at Harbor Feight in the St.L. area. I would dedicate to a center drill.

BTW, check the contents of the package at the counter, I was short on key. Whoever looked at the package before might have lost it.

Bob Haverstock

[Bill Bolen]

Welcome to the board neighbor...Bill..

[Larry Marley]

Greg,
I have one of the Delta 46-460's also, and recently tried inserting my Jacobs chuck with 2MT into the drive spindle. It appears that there is a shoulder down inside that drive spindle that doesn't allow the 2MT on the drill chuck to seat completely, without modifying (i.e shortening) the chuck.



One of our club lathes is the Delta, and we found at a show that it did not accept the longer MT found with some Drill chucks. Delta was there and took some measurements. We will see if later versions accommodate this.

Larry

[Greg Taylor]

Thanks everyone...great info.

[Glen Blanchard]

I will resurrect this old thread as I have this same lathe and (just like Greg) am now looking to purchase a drill chuck. From reading this thread it sounds like the 46-460 has a #2 morse taper. However, there seems to be a problem with the length of some of the chucks. I'd prefer not to have to modify it. Does anyone know of a drill chuck that is compatible "as is" with the 46-460?

I am looking at this one, but don't want to make the purchase only to find out that it needs modification to fit.

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-Products-TM32-Diameter/dp/B004CVJC20/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1337100233&sr=1-3

[Garrett Ellis]

I just bought the one from HF last week and it works fine with my 46-460, in both the drive spindle and tailstock. The shaft is a little longer than the live center included with the lathe, but it still seated properly.

Don't forget your 20% off coupon.

[Prashun Patel]

I got this one from PSI

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LDC2MT.html

I have not had any issues with it. Worked as advertised.

There's a newer one that is on sale right now too.

[Mike Campbell KS]

I've had a couple of cheap drill chucks where the taper was too long. I just made a couple of cuts with a angle grinder til I got a good fit.

[Allen Howell]

Glen, I have that one (keyless) and have not had a problem with it in my 46-455 (same as the 460 but not variable speed, DOH!). I have done a fair amount of drilling with it from the tailstock, but have not used it in the headstock, although I assume it fits there equally well.

[Steve Campbell]

I got one at Woodcraft that works great. One thing to look at is weather it has a drilled and tapped hole in the end of the taper. If you plan on using it in the headstock you need a draw bolt to hold it in. If you don't use a draw bolt the chuck "WILL" come loose and not always at a good time.....................

Steve

[Scott Conners]

I will resurrect this old thread as I have this same lathe and (just like Greg) am now looking to purchase a drill chuck. From reading this thread it sounds like the 46-460 has a #2 morse taper. However, there seems to be a problem with the length of some of the chucks. I'd prefer not to have to modify it. Does anyone know of a drill chuck that is compatible "as is" with the 46-460?

I am looking at this one, but don't want to make the purchase only to find out that it needs modification to fit.

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-Products-TM32-Diameter/dp/B004CVJC20/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1337100233&sr=1-3
This is designed for a lathe with a short morse taper:http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1148&category=
Personally, I use a beefier chuck: http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3153&category=
with this short arbor: http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1804&category=
I do a lot of very precision work in my drill chuck, and this one has worked very well for me. (I've been through a few). They have an arbor with drawbar threads, but it isn't short. I've never had a chuck come loose when I seated it properly in a clean spindle.
It's also no big deal to grind down the end of a taper if it's too long for your spindle. If you have to remove a significant amount, cut it off with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel first, then grind it smooth. Chamfer the tip, so any burrs don't score the taper.