Trying to pic a new rasp...

[Andrew Gibson]

Well I ordered some saw kits from Mike Wenzloff and will be making four handles.

Now I have an old Nicholson #50 that is missing a few teeth but still gets the job done, but I need a round rasp to get into the tighter curves.

So I was thinking of picking up one of the hand cut round Rasps that Lee valley has... http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,42524&p=20133
I'm thinking the 6"
while I'm paying for shipping I was thinking, Should I get a new Half round Rasp? if so I was thinking the 6" as well.

Now here is the catch.
For about $5 more I can get the Gramercy saw handle makers rasp.

So now I can't make up my mind... Why is picking tools so difficult.

[Tri Hoang]

If you already have the #50, go for the Gramercy handle rasp. I have both the #49/#50 and a pair of those rasps from LV but still find it challenging to reach the inside of the saw handles.

[David Weaver]

For saw handles and possibly future closed tote planes, I would get the TFWW saw handle rasp.

They are finer than the LV hand cut rasps by a good bit, cut on one side, etc. For most other things (general work), however, the LV rasps will be better and faster.

I don't have too many fine rasps, because they're too expensive and you can use a coarse file for a lot of things instead for $10, but the saw handle maker's rasp is one worth having. I guess a blacksmith could probably bend a file to accomplish the same thing, but I'm not comfortable with water hardening steels and at some point trying to get around spending money consumes too much time and thought.

I have a 50 also - a brazlian crapper one. I don't like it on exotic woods as much as I like the LV rasps - or any woods really. I kind of wish I never spent the money on it.

[Prashun Patel]

Take a look at the Dragon Rasps available at Stewart Macdonald. I built a Maloof Rocking chair and these were invaluable. Their taper and flat/round profile on opposite sides make them easy to get into the tightest of quarters.

[Rob Fisher]

...Now here is the catch.
For about $5 more I can get the Gramercy saw handle makers rasp...

I picked up one of these slightly used (barely if ever used) from a guy selling a bunch of tools on CL. I haven't used it much but it is definitely the rasp for handle making. Having teeth on one side seems like it would be great for a closed handle like a saw handle. And while it is a fine tooth it still cuts fairly fast.

Rob

[george wilson]

Bending a file is not difficult. I've done it many times. The main thing is to not hurt the teeth. File makers have to straighten them anyway.

I'd recommend drilling and driving 2 dowels at least 3/4" dia. into a block of hardwood. They should be about 3/4" apart,or whatever serves your purpose. The wood will catch on fire,so hardwood will last longer. You could get the wood wet,but it will cool the files faster,so be careful to not let them get too cool,and snap.

It would be best to coat your file's teeth to not burn the edges off the teeth. I use PBC No-Scale from Brownell's Gunsmith Supply. However,I use it a lot.

For a coating you can make at home,take flour,say 1/3 cup,add a teaspoon of yeast to it,a little salt,and mix with water to a very stiffish batter. Coat the file teeth with it. it will burn up and smell like burned bread,but the thick coating of carbon remains on the file,and keeps the teeth a clean gray color. The coating flies off when you quench the file. They used "beer leavings" in the 18th.C.,which must have been a thick,sludgy, sort of batter like material.

Heat the coated file up to a good red color. You need to be sure you have ENOUGH heat To do the job. Pile up 3 or 4 DRY bricks (you don't want them bursting in your eyes). Make a corner out of the bricks. Saves a LOT of heat. Use 2 Mapp gas torches,and heat the files up to red,or better,orange. With a good pair of pliers,perhaps Channel locks if possible,grasp the file where the teeth end,place the file between the dowels (held in a vise),and bend it without hesitating..

Reheat the file if you need to re bend it. After the file is bent,make sure the coating is still intact,or add more. heat the file up orange,and quench he file in water,but NOT ice water. The coating will either fly off,or can easily be brushed off,leaving a new file appearance.

To temper,I often dip the file in water,and just heat the file till the water sizzles off completely. Wait several seconds,and re quench. Old timers called this "taking the snap out of it." Files should be very hard,just tempered (softened) enough to keep the teeth from breaking their edges off.