Roubo is boring!

[Josh Bowman]

Dumb title, I know, but I hope I got you to look.
My bench is near done and it's dog hole time in Tennesse. The holes will be 3/4". I really have worked hard on it and want them straight. Tonight on scrap, I've tried an Irwin augar bit made for a power drill and a brad point bit, an augar bit and brace and several router bits. The plan was to drill a jig about 2"+ on my drill press, clamp it to the bench and drill as far as I could go. Each of the drill bits are rough going and the hole is not straight due to the wobble in the drills. I found a SMC video where Popular Woodworking used a sprial 3/4" router bit and bored away.....simple right?
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Workbench_Dog_Holes/ (http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Workbench_Dog_Holes/)
Well I can't find that 3/4" bit he used. Except at Highland Hardware for a million dollars. I hate to spend so much for a one time only bit.
I've tried a straight router bit....smoke, I tried a kind of veining bit....smoke. I can't find my core box bit...(if I really have one :eek:)
What have you guys done to bore holes?
Thanks in advance.
Josh

[Casey Gooding]

When I built the Roubo I used a shorter 3/4" spiral bit and went as deep as I could with it. I then finished off the holes with an auger (maybe a spade bit, I can't remember). Worked fine and the tops were clean (except the last one where the router slipped on me).

[Todd McDonald]

When I did the holes on my Roubo, I used Rockler extended forstner bit with the Rockler forstner bit guide. Finished off with auger bit. Worked well and fast, kinda pricey once you add it up.

[Josh Bowman]

When I did the holes on my Roubo, I used Rockler extended forstner bit with the Rockler forstner bit guide. Finished off with auger bit. Worked well and fast, kinda pricey once you add it up.
Can you give me the item number or picture. They have a portable drill press and some kind of flat base thing.

[Mike Konobeck]

I am going to be getting my top done soon and was planning on using this bit:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage.aspx?prodid=16670&ss=0846da19-b4d9-4161-9fa5-12fd28912b26

I just have to validate how long it is because I am making the top 4" thick.

[glenn bradley]

On my 3" top I at first did as you describe and used the bit that Mike links to. This worked reasonably well but gave a hard workout to my 1/2" drill motor and my arms. The holes were pretty straight but could've been better. I bought a 3/4" spiral bit for the router and made a jig to control x/y positioning for the rest of the holes. This worked much better and was so much faster and easier on the drill/arms. I did use the long brad point bit with a backer to finish the depth.

[Frank Strazza]

I just finished building the Benchcrafted workbench. There are a few round holes in the top as well as the square ones.
I simply used a brace and 3/4" bit, and drilled straight through the 4" hard maple top. It worked great and there was no twisting of the drill, out of my hand. There was no burning of the wood. Just a few stronger muscles in the arm and upper body! Sharpen your bit and good luck.

[Bob Jones]

Similar question - what about the 1 3/8in hole thru the 5in thick leg for the leg vise screw? I am not seeing any good options out there.

[Josh Bowman]

Similar question - what about the 1 3/8in hole thru the 5in thick leg for the leg vise screw? I am not seeing any good options out there.
I drilled that and the other leg dog holes on my drill press.....before I put the bench together.:)

[Jim Koepke]

I have drilled holes in my bench top or through the apron with a 3/4" auger bit. I just make sure the spurs are sharp and the lips are cutting even. If need be, set a couple of squares on the table to site for square.

jim

[Dave Anderson NH]

Josh, I started the first holes in my ash bench top with a 3/4" brad point bit in an electric drill. It was surprisingly tough going. I then changed over to my largest swing brace with a 3/4" Russell Jennings bit and not only were the holes faster to drill and less work than the electric drill, they came out straighter and cleaner.

[Tony Shea]

Do it by hand with an electrice powered drill, battery if you want, and use a 3/4" auger bit. Just learn how to sight a square hole and use squares standing up to sight against if necessary. Was easy for me and they all came of very clean. Don't over think it and just do it. Once it's done you'll kick yourself at worrying about it so much as it is that easy. Brad point bits take too much downward force and will throw your squareness all over the place. Make sure your auger bit is the actually right size as some brands are slightly oversized.

[Bob Jones]

So, what kind of bit do you use to drill a 1 3/8 hole that is 5 in deep? Forstner bits are not that long.

[Josh Bowman]

So, what kind of bit do you use to drill a 1 3/8 hole that is 5 in deep? Forstner bits are not that long.
Bob,
I used an 1 3/8" forstner bit, drilled as deep as I could...about 3 inches, having to raise the bit often to clear the chips. I then flipped the leg on my drill press with a table and fence in place, taking care to keep the same face of the leg aganst the fence. Held my breath, closed my eyes and hoped to meet the hole on the other side......and it did. So I did the same process with the rest of the 3/4" holes in the legs, worked without a hitch. Keep the same face against the fence.....

[Bob Jones]

Neat, thanks for the tip. I was considering that, but wasn't sure about it. I guess it is just a clearance hole anyway.

[Josh Bowman]

Neat, thanks for the tip. I was considering that, but wasn't sure about it. I guess it is just a clearance hole anyway.
That is true, but I was very surprised to see that the 3/4" holes met so well, almost no ridge at all. The legs on my bench of 5x5 and that's a long hole! Due the thickness of my top and the fact I want to be able to use the Vertias Wonder Dogs and thier shaft is very long. Any skewing of the hole will show up with these.

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:7aSZTOqYsN0vrM:http://www.fine-tools.com/V307968.jpg (http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.fine-tools.com/V307968.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.fine-tools.com/G307968.htm&usg=__026Okf18eJ1R1CatliQ3LQPOHdE=&h=164&w=200&sz=8&hl=en&start=7&itbs=1&tbnid=7aSZTOqYsN0vrM:&tbnh=85&tbnw=104&prev=/images%3Fq%3DVeritas%2BWonder%2BDog%26hl%3Den%26sa %3DG%26gbv%3D2%26tbs%3Disch:1)

[Jeff Craven]

I used a forstner bit and a electromagnetic drill press.

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/9966/img00094201004012339.jpg

[John Schreiber]

I did just fine with a hardware store spade bit. Don't think it cost more than a few dollars. It was quick and clean in SYP.

To keep the holes totally vertical, I mounted my drill in an older version of one of these:http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/46441-02-200.jpg
To keep the spacing even, I attached it to a board which indexed off the previous hole and the front of the bench.

[harry strasil]

When I bored the holes in my 4 inch thick demo bench top I used this tool and a 3/4 auger bit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/beamborer.jpg

When I drilled the holes in the 1 3/4 inch hard pin oak top and apron for my Nubench, I used my portable 1/2 inch Sioux drill and stand with a 13/16 forstner bit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/nu%20bench/drilling.jpg

It was slow going, so I finished up with a spade bit and my 3/8 Ace Hdwe, cheap V/sd hand drill.

[Josh Bowman]

Thank you so much for all the help. I have borrowed a friends small Craftsman drill press and took it a part:D and found that I can lower the head down and rotate it backwards....kindof like the mag drill and Harry's drills. I did a test last night and I got a straight hole.
Again, if this wasn't a 4 inch top and I have some stuff that goes to whole length, it would be a problem to hand drill. But it became a little critical with the Veritas Wonder Dog.
Harry, how well does the old augar press work? I had that on my mind and went to an old antique store yesterday in search of one. If it does well, I might watch for a bargain on EBay.

[Steven Herbin]

Hi all-

Not an expert but, I used a 3/4" HSS router bit attached to my edge guide to get as far down as I could. Then switched to a brace with a 3/4" auger bit until the tip broke through the bottom. Stopped IMMEDIATELY! Then used a 3/4" forstner in my electric drill (could have used a brace or an eggbeater) (avoid chipout at the bottom).

The edge guide kept everything nice and even and I got longer rods so that I could reach further across the top. Marked the rods every 6" for spacing across and used a storystick to measure the distance along the side of the bench.

Much more information than is necessary.

--Steve.

[harry strasil]

Josh it works well with a sharp auger bit with a good thread on the tip, its slower than using electrons, and you will notice you have sore arms and shoulders if your not used to the physical exertion that is needed to operate it. But you end up with large chips instead of dust and you don't need ear protectors to use it. LOL

Back when I made my demo bench I was smithing full time, so it wasn't a problem for me. Now it would be.

FWIW dept- I clamped a scrap across the bottom of my benchs to prevent split outs when going thru.

[Josh Bowman]

Josh it works well with a sharp auger bit with a good thread on the tip, its slower than using electrons, and you will notice you have sore arms and shoulders if your not used to the physical exertion that is needed to operate it. But you end up with large chips instead of dust and you don't need ear protectors to use it. LOL

Back when I made my demo bench I was smithing full time, so it wasn't a problem for me. Now it would be.

FWIW dept- I clamped a scrap across the bottom of my benchs to prevent split outs when going thru.
Thanks Harry,
Do you clamp it to want you're boring? It looks like it would be easier than using a brace....not simplier though.

[Josh Bowman]

Hi all-

Not an expert but, I used a 3/4" HSS router bit attached to my edge guide to get as far down as I could. Then switched to a brace with a 3/4" auger bit until the tip broke through the bottom. Stopped IMMEDIATELY! Then used a 3/4" forstner in my electric drill (could have used a brace or an eggbeater) (avoid chipout at the bottom).

The edge guide kept everything nice and even and I got longer rods so that I could reach further across the top. Marked the rods every 6" for spacing across and used a storystick to measure the distance along the side of the bench.

Much more information than is necessary.

--Steve.
Steve,
I really like the router method but the 3/4" bits are hard to find and expensive. And if I understand correctly the HSS ones only will last a bench or two (at $45 and 18 holes that's $2.50 a hole), and the carbide ones are like 150 bucks, but would last longer!

[harry strasil]

On the narrow demo bench I just sat on it like it was designed to be used. On wide things I just clamp a batten from side to side across the seat area to hold it in place. Its a rather uniqued machine originally designed to bore out the majority of waste for mortises on large beams for barn construction etc.

[Josh Bowman]

On the narrow demo bench I just sat on it like it was designed to be used. On wide things I just clamp a batten from side to side across the seat area to hold it in place. Its a rather uniqued machine originally designed to bore out the majority of waste for mortises on large beams for barn construction etc.
I'm looking on EBay now to see what they sell for. I'd like to have one if they really work and will drill a straight hole.

[harry strasil]

The oldtimers would have accomplished the job this way, with a simple drilling guide.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/drillingbolster.jpg


PS - the one like I have and some others can be adjusted to drill holes at any angle, the simpler ones only bore straight holes, no angle adjustment, and most will need to be refurbished.

[Josh Bowman]

The oldtimers would have accomplished the job this way, with a simple drilling guide.

I tried that with auger and electron powered and found after 4 inches I seem to be off. My guide may had been off even though it was done of a drill press, but since my friend loaned me his rig, I havn't had a chance to see why the guide didn't work. (Did you see the pics of your hold downs on my Roubo?......They make my bench look good....bench jewery?

[harry strasil]

I guess I missed that Josh. I haven't been on the puter much this week. A week ago today I had to call 911 and have the ambulance come and git my wife as I couldn't wake her up and she was unresponsive. Been a trying week for me especially when the Drs informed me to notify family members immediately. But she is being released today, she has made an amazing recovery, thanks to the excellent medical people we have here and also a brand new state of the art Hospital.

[Josh Bowman]

I guess I missed that Josh. I haven't been on the puter much this week. A week ago today I had to call 911 and have the ambulance come and git my wife as I couldn't wake her up and she was unresponsive. Been a trying week for me especially when the Drs informed me to notify family members immediately. But she is being released today, she has made an amazing recovery, thanks to the excellent medical people we have here and also a brand new state of the art Hospital.
Harry,
I hate to hear that. I'll continue to keep you and yours in my prayers. Here's the picture I put up on "Introducing Le Roubo"
Take care of yourself.
Josh
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=148613&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1271724646 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=148613&d=1271724646)

[George Clark]

For anyone who might want to use the router to bore 3/4" holes for there bench dogs Great Lakes offers the following bit for $47.65. I have no affiliation, just passing the information on.

George



S-810-C
1000-S-810-C-1100
Carbide Tip Up Spiral

5/8" cutter dia
1-1/2" cutter length
1/2" shank dia
2-7/8"overall length


JEAN BORTHS
Customer Service / Sales
GREAT LAKES CUSTOM TOOL MFG., INC.
101 N. Old Peshtigo Road
Peshtigo, WI 54157

Ph#: 800-873-4528
Fax#: 715-582-4373
e-mail: jeanb@glct.com (jeanb@glct.com)

[Wilbur Pan]

Like Harry, I made a drilling guide out of a scrap piece of 2x4 and used a 3/4" auger bit and brace. My benchtop is about 3-1/4" thick. I used my drill press to drill the hole in the guide. Details are in this post (http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Number=4839744&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&vc=1).

The hole seems straight enough for holdfasts. My holdfasts worked great the first time I tried them in these holes.

[Johnny Kleso]

I used a 1/2"drill bit in pistol drill then the PWW 3/4"router bit method..
This way I could use a standard 3/4" router bit with less tear out on the bottom..

[Mitch Barker]

I'll second the vote for a basic spade bit. Sharpen it with a few swipes from a file and it will cut quick and clean with an electric drill.

To keep it vertical, I used something called a port-align

http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/portalign-drill-guide-nib-portable-drill-press

I mounte the portalign to a wood base and added a fence to the base to keep all the holes the same distance from the edge.

I tried augers with a brace and some auger looking bits I got at Lowes made by Irwin. Both required more force than my corded drill could muster.

The top was 1 3/4 maple plus 3/4" MDF. Best part about the holes is using holdfast. The oft recommended ones from a company in Brooklyn work great.
Mitch

[Josh Bowman]

Well, I flipped then flopped. I was at the Knoxville Woodcraft on Saturday and I bought the HSS 3/4" bit, it was the last one that had...must had been destiny, it was even marked down from the on line price. Absolutely no regrets. It not only bore the 2" hole straight, but extremely quickly! I wish the brad point bit I'm finishing the holes with would be as easy. All the dowels align perfect except the one in the foreground. It was done with a modified drill press and it looks like I was off a fraction, but that isn't critical.
Guys, thanks for all the help.