"Step jaws" v. "Spigot jaws"

[Jamie Straw]

Looking at #1 jaws for the Talon chuck so I can grip smaller stock. How does one decide between step-jaws and spigot-jaws? What are their respective specialties?

[Reed Gray]

I got some step jaws years ago for my Vicmark, used them maybe twice, and never again. Not sure about the Talon, but would think the specialty jaws are much better suited.

robo hippy

[Jamie Straw]

..."specialty jaws" being the spigot jaws??

[Bob Hamilton]

I use the Oneway step jaws quite a bit. I don't have the spigot jaws so I can't really give a comparison. The small step on the step jaws will (I think) fit into a smaller hole than the spigot. Mine will "just" fit into a 7/8" hole so they are handy for candle holders. I kind of have a feeling that I have customized mine a bit at some point, though, so I don't know if the stock jaws will fit a 7/8" hole.

Take care
Bob

[Philip Morris]

Jamie,
Like most things it depends on what you want to do. The spigot jaws will grab very small diameters in compression (+/- 1/4") and will hold the work away from the body of the chuck so you can get to the back side. I do enough of this type of turning to keep a chuck permanently set up with these jaws.

[Jamie Straw]

I use the Oneway step jaws quite a bit..... The small step on the step jaws will (I think) fit into a smaller hole than the spigot.....

You're right, Bob, the step jaws will fit into a smaller hole (1/16" to 1/8" depending on model). Sounds like the step jaws are more for internal/expansion holding. I have the Oneway Talon.

[Jamie Straw]

Jamie,
Like most things it depends on what you want to do. The spigot jaws will grab very small diameters in compression (+/- 1/4") and will hold the work away from the body of the chuck so you can get to the back side.....

Thanks, Philip, this is the kind of info I need, especial the part about holding the work away from the body of the chuck.

[Edward Bartimmo]

I have both the step jaws and spigot. As mentioned above, the spigot jaws do a great job of giving extra clearance from the chuck. That said, if I am turning something that I want the bottom to have a small profile or an extremely thin wall I prefer using a waste/glue block that will alow me to get some distance from the lather head and allow me to get a nicely tapered small bottom and avoid the extra thickness at the bottom to allow for the recess. What I do find the spigot particularily useful is for turning small stock (spindle turning) to make finials or other delicate pieces. It works great in place of a collet chuck.

I also have a set of the step jaws on the Talon chuck. Do to the number of steps (3 as I recall) the seating (depth) is not very deep. This fact coupled with each step having a less aggressive rake (unlike the normal dovetail) it just doesn't grab the wood as well as I'd like.

As a result the spigot jaws are the winner in my shop for certain "light" application. I prefer a waste block for any turnign that may have any torque of mass.

[Reed Gray]

I don't know if they are spigot jaws or not, but I have 'extended' jaws for my Vicmark chucks. They extend out maybe 2 inches from the chuck body, and when closed the outside is about an inch, and I can tighten up a sanding mandrill in them when closed, so 1/4 or less. I use them when sanding bowls as it gets the work farther away from the chuck body, and it is easier to sand all the way to the bottom of the bowl. I don't use them for turning bowls though, but do tighten some 1/2 inch round pieces in them for turning wooden beads for jewelery. Very handy. The problem with step jaws is that the other jaws seemed to be in the way.

robo hippy

[Philip Morris]

Jamie,
As has been alluded to here, neither of these jaw sets will have the holding power of standard jaws.

If I have something being held by just the tip of the spigot jaws I can feel some "flex" in the jaws if I tighten too much. This usually translates in the piece not being centered. That's when I find another way to hold it.

Another disadvantage with these jaws is they cannot expand very far before the jaws begin to protrude past the body of the chuck, creating a safety hazard.

In summary, the spigot jaws have a limited design context. However, within that context they are an excellent accessory jaw set.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Looking at #1 jaws for the Talon chuck so I can grip smaller stock. How does one decide between step-jaws and spigot-jaws? What are their respective specialties?

Jamie the use of these two jaws overlap each other, I have both the step jaws and the spigot jaws for my Talon chucks, the step jaws (also called #1 jaws for the Talon and Oneway chucks) have the serrations on both the inside and outside of the jaws, and hold better on small tenons or dowel-like pieces, but don't hold as small as the spigot jaws.

The steps hold very good but are not always easy to use unless there's enough depth in the work-piece.

The spigot jaws hold smaller tenon or dowel-like pieces, down to 1/4", but the inside of those jaws are smooth and tend to flex if not held to the full depth of the jaws, (steel will flex and these long jaws will do that), the outside of these jaws are serrated all the way and hold very good inside an opening and by going deeper they are better in holding that way than the step-jaws that only hold very close to the edge.

The use as you see cover much the same sizes but they do have their own advantages depending on what you use them on and the way you work, it is for this reason that I have both.

HTH :)


148764 148765


148766 148767

[David Walser]

In one of his videos, Richard Raffan explains why he uses step jaws on his chuck. He turns a lot of boxes and the step jaws allow him to turn a large range of box diameters without the need to turn a jam chuck to finish the bottom of the box. For a production turner like Raffan, that must save a lot of time!

Note: I think it was a Raffan video. It might have been a video from someone else.

[Jamie Straw]

Edward, Reed and Philip -- very helpful info, thanks! I'm sure eventually I'll have both, but this helps me pick the right one for now, and use it effectively and safely.

[Jamie Straw]

In one of his videos, Richard Raffan explains why he uses step jaws on his chuck. He turns a lot of boxes and the step jaws allow him to turn a large range of box diameters without the need to turn a jam chuck to finish the bottom of the box. For a production turner like Raffan, that must save a lot of time!

Note: I think it was a Raffan video. It might have been a video from someone else.

I have Raffan's box video, but haven't watched it yet. I'll let you know if it's in there. Thanks!

[Jamie Straw]

Jamie the use of these two jaws overlap each other....
The use as you see cover much the same sizes but they do have their own advantages depending on what you use them on and the way you work, it is for this reason that I have both.

HTH :)

The fact that they overlap is kinda what sent me here to SMC -- the numbers are easy to see, but no info from Oneway on what each does the best. That's why I need you guys!:)

[Ryan Baker]

Raffan does use step jaws. The Vicmarc step jaws Raffan uses and the Teknatool step jaws are compression-mode steps. The idea is that you can cover a range of sizes without changing jaws. The reality is that you normally can't use anything but the outermost step, because the piece often runs into the larger steps when trying to seat into the smaller steps. The Oneway step jaws described here are stepped the other way, for expansion mode. Those should be more useable -- if they are appropriate to the type of things you turn. Choices, choices...