How do you sell hand tools

[Dan Sheehan]

It looks like I may be selling a few hand tools until my luck turns around. Any advice on the various options?

I have user quality tools, decent shape and well cared for. I just have a few more planes than I can presently justify. The prices I've been seeing on Ebay lately are about what I paid a few years ago, making it hard to pay the Ebay fees, unless the security is worth something.

How does the selling experience on the Creek Classified compare to the Ebay? Or do you have any other favorite outlets?

So far I've only been a buyer, probably from some of you guys. So any information from the sell side would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. This site is great.

[David Weaver]

It depends on what the item is, whether or not you want to chase around PMs, and whether you can go to the effort to put together good pictures.

Good large pictures and a generic explanation of the tool on ebay is where I've gotten the most money, except pedestrian things that aren't an it brand.

I generally don't sell to recover anything other than my effort to sell the item - if I lose money, not a big deal, it's a hobby, and I still have more money in my pocket than I would if I had a bunch of tools in disuse on a shelf.

Things I've seen sell better on forums is like if you have sargent or millers falls planes in common sizes. I got 5 4s and 5s a couple of years ago off of ebay (millers falls), all $10 - $15, none of them needed more than cleaned and basic surface rust removal (no basket cases). Seen the same thing sell for $40 on the forums. Also got plenty of things on the forums that would've sold for lots more on ebay - just a couple of weeks ago got a yankee 12 inch brace for $45, probably would've gone for a lot more than that on peebay, and one of our esteemed members here sold me a flatside bedrock jack plane for $65 - good condition and all, never would get that on the auction site.

If the stuff you have has no problems, and is one of the preferable brands, I would take the time to take very good pictures in good light on a neutral background and put the tools on ebay.

You can always list things on forums and if they don't sell, use ebay as a last resort, but selling and finding out what to list where is generally best found out with experience.

If something is rare, collectible or expensive, I would always go the ebay route, and if you take good pictures, start it at a penny and take whatever ebay gives you. Example, I had a semi-cherry 55 complete, couldn't get $350 for it on the forums last year, took a half hour to set up a background and take good pictures, put it on ebay at a penny, and it went for $555. Guy that got it was ecstatic, I was confused.

Also, had a big panel raiser plane, put it on the forums for $125, nobody would touch it. Listed it for $150 BIN on the auction site, nobody would touch it. Put it on for a penny just to get rid of it, and it got bid to $175. Guy that got it was very happy with it.

Just remember that the guy looking at your tool on ebay doesn't know you from any other person several states away, and if you put up small pictures where he doesn't know what he's looking at, or can't answer questions like the following:
* is the mouth OK
* what shape is the iron in?
* is there rust on the other side of the plane?
* is that tote really cracked or is that just the picture?
* is the color of the plane that bad or is that just the camera?

...he's not going to ask, and he's not going to bid much. Your objective is to make it so that you accentuate the positive in the tools and make sure people don't have unanswered questions.

Hope your luck turns around.

[Jim Koepke]

Dan,

Sorry to see your first post is a tale of misfortune.

I think to sell in the Saw Mill Creek Classifieds you may need to be a contributor.

I have sold a few items through the SMC Classifieds. Usually only tools that have absolutely no issues or they are spelled out clearly. Even on ebay I do not let a defect go unspoken.

For a good user plane, I will usually list it here first. They are usually gone in a day or so. One lasted about 2 hours. I do not know if I could have gotten more on ebay, and I do not care. I know they went to good tool using homes.

Some of the more unusual or esoteric items I will list on ebay. I sold a few parts for Stanley #98 & 99 side rabbet planes there. One screw was sold to a person in Norway who needed the screw to hold the skate in place. Usually people on SMC who need parts will post a message saying they need them. I am not sure there are many looking in the SMC Classifieds for part listings.

People looking for parts can set up a regular search on ebay and get a daily email with the newly listed parts.

jim

[John Powers]

My thoughts: a stanley 3,4 or 5 over $40.00 plus shipping is not realistic given what is available at least in the East at garage sales and fleas. Personally I disregard types and patent dates when I'm looking for a plane I can use. I want good pictutres and I want an honest credible seller. Can't always get that on Ebay and I have the pitted chistles to prove it. Price stuff realistically. the consumer price index and rate of inflation be damned. a user is a user and not a prize. Trying to make a profit out of user planes is carzy.

[Richard Niemiec]

My thoughts: a stanley 3,4 or 5 over $40.00 plus shipping is not realistic given what is available at least in the East at garage sales and fleas. Personally I disregard types and patent dates when I'm looking for a plane I can use. I want good pictutres and I want an honest credible seller. Can't always get that on Ebay and I have the pitted chistles to prove it. Price stuff realistically. the consumer price index and rate of inflation be damned. a user is a user and not a prize. Trying to make a profit out of user planes is carzy.

Respectfully disagree. There's a big difference in performance between a T11 and a T20 Stanley bench plane, so type does matter; buying a vintage Stanley made when Stanley still gave a damn about machining the mating surfaces makes a difference. Condition matters as well, more as to the sole and pitting, and iron condition, etc. There's many rustbuckets out there in the #4 and #5 size that with some work can be made into good users, but not as many #3s out there in good shape. A fettled plane is worth the extra $10 or $15 and a #4 or #5 for $40 fettled and sharpened is more than worth it to a newbie.

[Jim Koepke]

My thoughts: a stanley 3,4 or 5 over $40.00 plus shipping is not realistic given what is available at least in the East at garage sales and fleas. Personally I disregard types and patent dates when I'm looking for a plane I can use. I want good pictutres and I want an honest credible seller. Can't always get that on Ebay and I have the pitted chistles to prove it. Price stuff realistically. the consumer price index and rate of inflation be damned. a user is a user and not a prize. Trying to make a profit out of user planes is carzy.



Respectfully disagree. There's a big difference in performance between a T11 and a T20 Stanley bench plane, so type does matter; buying a vintage Stanley made when Stanley still gave a damn about machining the mating surfaces makes a difference. Condition matters as well, more as to the sole and pitting, and iron condition, etc. There's many rustbuckets out there in the #4 and #5 size that with some work can be made into good users, but not as many #3s out there in good shape. A fettled plane is worth the extra $10 or $15 and a #4 or #5 for $40 fettled and sharpened is more than worth it to a newbie.


If a #3, 4 or 5 is at a flea market or yard sale and needs cleaning and fettling, yes $40 is too much.

If it is clean and rust free no damage to the wood and with no pitting including on the blade, the $40 is still a bit on the high side, but not bad.

I also agree that the type makes a difference. I have seen some planes from after WW II that can be made to perform well, but they just are not as nice as the earlier planes that were made, as Richard says, "when Stanley still gave a…"

If a plane has been fettled and put into good order, then $40 is in the area of a darn good bargain, especially for someone who doesn't have the skill or desire to do the work them self. How many options are there to get a well conditioned plane that doesn't require anything beyond a bit of honing to the blade? You are not going to get a Veritas or a Lie-Nielsen for anything close to $40. An Anant #3 will run you $39.95 at Amazon. I do not know if that would be a better deal than paying a little more for a Stanley/Bailey that someone has put into good working order.

I have a type 6 #4 that is just sweet. It would take a lot more than $40 to get me to let that go. I have sold a very nice Bedrock #604 and a good type 9 & a type 10 #4 that was also a good plane. There is just a little bit more to that old plane that seems nicer than any of the others that were sold. It just sings a nicer tune when it makes shavings I guess.

One of the woodworkers who came by my shop and tried it just said, "wow," after making some shavings.

jim

[Andrew Pitonyak]

It is worth stating your opinion of the tool along with how it works. If you have tuned it up and things are working well, it certainly helps to say so. At least on ebay, which works on bidding, tools seem to sell for more if:



There are good descriptions with photographs.
If rehab has been done, describing what was done so that people think you know what you are talking about.
If you can take good shavings, show the shavings with the tool.
Sell it.... Freshly sharpened blade that shaves the hair off the back of my arm.... Polished back to a mirror finish....


This is about sales and convincing someone that your tools will perform well with less work on the part of the purchaser.

Items may be more likely to sell at near new prices here for a tool in new condition here. On Ebay, tools such as those from Lie Nielsen regularly sell for almost new cost.

If you choose to sell on eBay, watch a few items similar to yours and then look to see which tools and descriptions command the best price.

[Dan Sheehan]

Thank you all for your input. You have been very helpful. I love this site.

[Jim Koepke]

Dan,

I didn't want to take this thread over, so I am starting a new thread about mislabeled items on ebay.

I guess that could be an important factor in selling something is to call it what the person looking to buy it thinks it is called.

jim

[Johnny Kleso]

Host your pictures on Photo Bucket or some place like that so you dont have to pay for extra images..

Make sure you have quality images

Discribe plane well and add there is no cracks or this is very good or used very little.. Point out all the good stuff first then the bad last.. Do not be to harsh if not perfect..

Have a reserve price and low starting bid..

Have auction end on Sunday Night...

PS: IMHO $40 for a No.3 from a WW on a fourm is a deal and much rather buy it from you that who knows who on eBay... I have paid as much as $70 for a No.3 and do it over and over.. The last two No.3s I bought where about $65 each but they where No.3Cs Type 16s with the boxes older types without boxes are worth more in good condition..

If you want a Type 14 like this one below it will cost you $75 IMHO
http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/hand_plane_collection/images/3t14.jpg