glue block tenon for 3/4" material

[Roger Chandler]

I am wanting to piece together some Red Oak that I have with some walnut and cherry to make a segmented platter in the near future [I have some wood left over from flatwork] and it is 3/4 inch thick.

Would the best way to mount this on the lathe be to use a waste block for a tenon, so as to allow me to make this shallow platter, or is there a better way?

I appreciate tips, and they are solicited :)

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I am wanting to piece together some Red Oak that I have with some walnut and cherry to make a segmented platter in the near future [I have some wood left over from flatwork] and it is 3/4 inch thick.

Would the best way to mount this on the lathe be to use a waste block for a tenon, so as to allow me to make this shallow platter, or is there a better way?

I appreciate tips, and they are solicited :)

Roger without a vacuum chuck, the way I would do it, mark the center and screw on a faceplate with screws that stick out 1/4" and then turn the bottom side, mark and glue a scrap piece to the bottom while it still is mounted on the faceplate, turn the tenon to size and the shape required, and mark the center for later when removing this tenon.
Shuck it up and turn the inside/top side, sand and finish.
Screw a disk to the faceplate and hold the new platter/bowl against the disk (a piece of thin rubber/foam between them helps prevent slipping) and holdit there with your live centre, the mark you made earlier will help you center it easily.
Turn away the tenon right till the last little stub, sand all and the cut the stub away or sand away and finish the spot, all done and have fun doing it :D

[Mike Golka]

This is commonly done for segmented work, just glue on tenon made from scrap hardwood and turn the peice. When your ready to finish the bottom turn off the scrap tenon and finish.

[Thomas Canfield]

A member in our local club talked about turning a platter using double stick tape for the bottom. I took him at his word and came home and turned a 9" plate out of cypress on my mini lathe without a problem using Duck brand double stick carpet tape. The use of the glue on tenon suggested by Leo is definitely a safer method, but double stick tape and using the live center for the outer area will work.

[Roger Chandler]

This is commonly done for segmented work, just glue on tenon made from scrap hardwood and turn the peice. When your ready to finish the bottom turn off the scrap tenon and finish.


Could a piece of pine be used and be safe? I have lots of scraps from pine, and many construction grade 2x4 cutoffs that would be easy to make some glue blocks from.

[Joe Little]

Roger, i have done a number of plates using tape and a faceplate. I took a turning class in a local college and the instructor convinced us that it is safe and effective. I was very skeptical but after doing quite a few I would have to agree. Just make sure you buy the right tape. http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Screw_Centers___Faceplates___D ouble_Face_Tape___double_face_tape?Args=

joe

[Mike Golka]

"Could a piece of pine be used and be safe?"

Roger pine can work, just be very careful when doing the platter don't try to take too big of cuts as the softer tenon may fail under the stress.

[Roger Chandler]

Leo, Joe, Mike & Tom,

Thank you to each of you. You have helped me and your help is received and appreciated! One of the great things about being a SMC contributor is the willingness of the great folks who hang out here to help clarify questions as to technique and be safe in the process.

I will try both methods mentioned in your posts over the next few weeks.

[Edward Bartimmo]

Waste Block Material - Hard wood is better, but can use softer woods if that is all that is available. As a rule you do not want to use plywood, particularily Baltic Birch, because it can delaminate (veneer layers seperate) or sheer apart if you have a good catch or a lot of torque. Also, when gluing the waste block to the workpiece it is best to have side grain (not end grain). If you attach the waste block to a faceplate there is less chance of the screws stripping out or cracking the waste block.

The size of the waste block and type of material is all subject to the size of the workpiece to be turned as well as the hardness of the wood or potential for torque or catches that you may encounter.

To attach the waste block you can use wood glue, CA, or epoxy. In all instances make certain you have good contact between the two surfaces. Overall, standard yellow wood glue gives best overall performance. The downside to wood glue is that you need to give it time to setup and dry, which means overnight ...delayed gratification. For immediate application and use both CA and a quick drying Epoxy are the fix. The downside to epoxy is the potential mess as well as mixing small quantities. CA is the best of two for quick glue solution. The one comment on CA is that unless you have a near perfect fit it doesn't hold up to catches and torque as well as yellow wood glue.

Good Luck

[Roger Chandler]

Waste Block Material - Hard wood is better, but can use softer woods if that is all that is available. As a rule you do not want to use plywood, particularily Baltic Birch, because it can delaminate (veneer layers seperate) or sheer apart if you have a good catch or a lot of torque. Also, when gluing the waste block to the workpiece it is best to have side grain (not end grain). If you attach the waste block to a faceplate there is less chance of the screws stripping out or cracking the waste block.

The size of the waste block and type of material is all subject to the size of the workpiece to be turned as well as the hardness of the wood or potential for torque or catches that you may encounter.

To attach the waste block you can use wood glue, CA, or epoxy. In all instances make certain you have good contact between the two surfaces. Overall, standard yellow wood glue gives best overall performance. The downside to wood glue is that you need to give it time to setup and dry, which means overnight ...delayed gratification. For immediate application and use both CA and a quick drying Epoxy are the fix. The downside to epoxy is the potential mess as well as mixing small quantities. CA is the best of two for quick glue solution. The one comment on CA is that unless you have a near perfect fit it doesn't hold up to catches and torque as well as yellow wood glue.

Good Luck


Thanks Edward,

Another good bit of information.

[Matt Owen]

Could a piece of pine be used and be safe? I have lots of scraps from pine, and many construction grade 2x4 cutoffs that would be easy to make some glue blocks from.


I have done numerous segmented vessels, mostly using a piece of 2x4 for the glue block. I've never had a problem using this material. Please note that I normally use a face plate when using glue blocks. It's easier for me to screw the block to a face plate than turn a tenon to fit my chuck.

Make sure both sides of the glue block are flat and parallel before you attach your turning.

Matt

[Roger Chandler]

I have done numerous segmented vessels, mostly using a piece of 2x4 for the glue block. I've never had a problem using this material. Please note that I normally use a face plate when using glue blocks. It's easier for me to screw the block to a face plate than turn a tenon to fit my chuck.

Make sure both sides of the glue block are flat and parallel before you attach your turning.

Matt


Thanks Matt,

I appreciate you giving your experience with a glue block from a 2x4 and the faceplate with screws does sound like the safest method. I will use it for the upcoming segmented platter, but I think I will also purchase some turners tape, and give that a try as well on another [maybe smaller] project, to gain some more knowledge with different mountings.

I guess I have gotten so used to a scroll chuck that my innovative skills have gotten a bit rusty. Thanks again to all for the help :)

[Cathy Schaewe]

Just a comment on the pine glue block issue - I'm pretty new to turning, so it may be my inexperience, but .... I've had pine glue blocks fracture, and I haven't had that problem with hardwood. I don't use pine now.

[Roger Chandler]

Just a comment on the pine glue block issue - I'm pretty new to turning, so it may be my inexperience, but .... I've had pine glue blocks fracture, and I haven't had that problem with hardwood. I don't use pine now.


Thanks Cathy for the info..... I'm one that leans towards safety, so I will take all information into consideration. It might depend on the quality of the block and if it is too dry and brittle to hold a screw well. Maybe the pine would be best used on mainly smaller, more lightweight items to cut down on the centrifugal force created by the turning motion.

I think pine should be okay for the lighter items.