Marking knife suggestions?

[Tony Shea]

I'm kind of in the market for a new marking knife specifically for transfering tails to the pin board or visa versa. I have been using an exacto/hobby style knife but find the blade a bit too flexible and the angle of the blade actually cuts into the template board as I'm scribing my marks, just too steep of and angle. I've really been looking at the double bevel style knifes that can be used left or right handed as I think this would come in handy but maybe not neccessary. I'm just kind of looking for others opinions on likes and dislikes for a knife of this purpose.

I've actually been looking at Knight Toolworks (http://knight-toolworks.com/?page_id=478&category=3&product_id=3) version.

[Matthew Dworman]

I really like Dave Anderson's:

http://www.chestertoolworks.com/markingknives.htm
http://www.chestertoolworks.com/images/4knives.jpg

And also Blue Spruce:

http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/PDGImages/Shopping_Cart_Images/SMK1_big.jpg
http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=SMK2


Both are excellent - Plus we all know Dave here and it is nice to support a member!!

[Tony Shea]

Hmm, Chester Toolworks and Knight Toolworks. Are these two companies related somehow? They show the same knife but one place is a bit cheaper than the other.

[Ethan Sincox]

I have two blue spruce marking knives in my shop (thus reducing the time spent searching for a marking knife by half!) and love them both.

Dave Jeske is a great businessman - communication and customer satisfaction are top notch.

One of my marking knives has a custom handle - curly Honduran mahogany. I think Dave will make a knife with pretty much any kind of wood you can supply him with, as long as it is of the proper minimum dimensions...

[Matthew Dworman]

Hmm, Chester Toolworks and Knight Toolworks. Are these two companies related somehow? They show the same knife but one place is a bit cheaper than the other.

Dave Anderson is Chester Toolworks - I believe that Knight Toolworks among others sell Dave's products. I don't believe that Dave shows his prices on his web-site so I don't know if one is "Cheaper" than the other. In my experience, I always prefer to purchase directly from the manufacturer. Even if it is a couple bucks more, for these reasons:
1: They are getting more than the wholesale price that they get from a third party - this helps enable them to continue making a living and offering great products

2: The service is always better - if there is ever an issue with your tool, you are dealing directly with the person that made it as opposed to a catalog company or some other third party.

3: You develop a relationship with the maker - They may have a special wood or a new tool to offer - if you ever want something custom, they are already familiar with you...

That is why I highly recommend both Dave Anderson at Chester Toolworks and Dave Jeske at Blue Spruce Toolworks...

[Doug Shepard]

I've been very happy with the ones I've gotten from the Czech Edge
http://czeckedge.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9&zenid=c2aac6cb460fb8b9eef39619f01abe39

[Jim Koepke]

The double bevel style is a lot better for marking. It can still cut into the template wood if one is not careful.

In my opinion, the handle is as important as the blade. An uncomfortable handle will have you wanting for a different knife.

My handle was turned from a scrap of rosewood after observing my grip on pens and pencils:

148669

The blade was made from an old saw blade. The ferrule is a piece from a tubing compression fitting.

Not as nice as can be bought, but it only cost me the time and gave me pleasure making it and now when it is used.

jim

[Derek Cohen]

Both the Daves make super knives, but if you have yen to make your own, here is a tutorial ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/A%20Knife%20for%20Marking%20Dovetails.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jeff Hamilton Jr.]

Like Derek said, if you have the time to make your own ...

I purchased a kit from Czech edge (can't remember the exact knife name they have super thin, regular and large . ... mine was the regular size).

I turned the cocobolo handle and put the knife together using the very easy instructions. The whole event probably took about an hour and 1/2 given futzing. It was fun and the handle is to my exact specs.

It is my avatar here on this site.

I've used it alot for dovetail marking and other detail chores and it works great. The blade is long enough to clear 1 & 1/2 inch wood easily and thin enough to get in between fairly tight dovetail spacing.

[Casey Gooding]

I have the large and small knives from Blue Spruce Toolworks. They are fantastic!! I also have the Veritas knife and use it when I want the reference of a wider face.

[Rick Erickson]

Cosman is coming out with a new one in a few months.

[Tony Shea]

Casey, what knife would you reccomend for getting into the tight spaces of a dovetail, large or small. I would assume small. Also, out of Dave's knives is the small version real flimsy such as that of a exacto knife? Would the medium work fine for getting into the small confines of a dovetail? Sorry for all the questions, I just can't afford to by two at the moment therefore want to make the right choice. I have never seen any of these knives in person therefore have no idea of size comparisons.

[Leigh Betsch]

Both the Daves make super knives, but if you have yen to make your own, here is a tutorial ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/A%20Knife%20for%20Marking%20Dovetails.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Stop it, stop it, stop it. I ain't listening. Making your own tools is addicting and you guys gotta stop it!
And I have the steel already bought, now I gotta find a source for some snake wood.

[Dale Sautter]

snip... now I gotta find a source for some snake wood.

http://www.gilmerwood.com/boards_snakewood_unique.htm

Talk to Jim... he'll hook you up.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Tony

Generally you need two knives: one for detail work, such as marking dovetails, and another for heavy work, such as scoring a deep line for a tenon shoulder or dado.

Note that the skinny detail/dovetail knife is really only necessary if you are transfering skinny ("London") tails to pins. If you cut your dovetails pin first then you can use a pencil or a thick-bodied marking knife.

The thickness of the blade for a skinny dovetail is ideally able to fit into the kerf of a saw. So you need the skinny blade, not the medium blade.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Thinbladefornarrowdovetails.jpg

Half blind London dovetails ....

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Dovetails%20made%20easy/Drawer.jpg

For the rear through dovetails, which are wide-ish, you could use most knives - certainly get away with a medium thick blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

http://www.gilmerwood.com/boards_snakewood_unique.htm

Talk to Jim... he'll hook you up.

That is who I was going to suggest, but they do have a minimum on shipped orders.

I don't know about being able to hook you up. I have been to their place of business.

Heck Dale, does the PDX in your profile stand for Portland Airport? If so, you are closer than me.

I won't likely be going to Portland for at least another month or two.

I feel bad about that since there is a person there that has a couple of tree trunks in her yard that I said I might be interested in, but we never got together. That was from the last time I was in Portland back in February.

jim

[Tony Shea]

Aren't I glad you guys pointed Gilmer Woods out. It's just fun looking through the stock he has on hand. And man isn't that snakewood some wild stuff. Its the first time I've ever seen a full board or log of it and it sure is pretty stuff. There is no questioning how it got its' name. I have been kind of looking around for some ebony for some pulls and other hardware peices and seems I found the source. Thanks guys/girls.

[Dale Sautter]

That is who I was going to suggest, but they do have a minimum on shipped orders.

I don't know about being able to hook you up. I have been to their place of business.


My apologies Jim. I meant the other Jim that feverishly works @ Gilmer. He is literally a fount of knowledge concerning all things wood, very knowledgeable/helpfull and all around good guy.

Ya, I'm a little south of Portland myself, but try to spin by Gilmers when I have a couple spare shekels to part with, or sometimes just to gawk... it's a candy store for the eyes for sure. Glad you pointed out the "minimum on shipped orders" because I've only ever been in there in person, never ordered online. One thing I know (because I've been chided for not remembering... :)), is that when you see something you like online... you need a part/stock number (every piece of wood online and in person, has a "stock number") to reference pricing. Better not to leave home without it...



I have been kind of looking around for some ebony for some pulls and other hardware peices and seems I found the source.


When you order/email them make sure you have the stock number, it really helps them to know exactly what you want. Really nice thing in working with/ordering from Gilmers... if you don't see what you're looking for at the time, ask them to keep an eye out for "X", and they'll shoot you an email or call you when they find/see it.

Tony, file it under "another idea", but as others have mentioned, making your own tools is fun, and you get exactly what you want... if you have the time/interest. Another thing you could do is to use a belt sander to grind down an old HSS spade bit to the profile that you like/want. After it's ground/cut to size, all you need is a properly shaped/turned handle with a hole drilled out one end that's the diameter of the "spade bit shank". Epoxy it in place then it'll hold an edge for quite awhile, and remain pretty tuff.

[Mike Konobeck]

I have no experience making my own but was going to order up one of the Hock blades and just turn a handle.

http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/H!MARK.htm

I will have to look into the other options offered up in this thread. I have a Crown right now and they really make middle of the road tools and function but for a marginal amount more I could do better. I really dislike having to make things to make things though when there is such a limited amount of time in the shop. The internal struggle continues. :-)

[Leigh Betsch]

Thanks for the wood link. Looks like I'll have to bank up a few tool handle projects to make the $100 min order though.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Hock


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[glenn bradley]

X-Acto knife works great.

[Tony Shea]

My problem with making my own confortable handles is the fact I am not in possesion of a lathe, which seems as though is assumed. I sure I could carve somethign out but woudl probably not be the feel that I am after. Maybe is someone knows of any tutorials without the use of lathes.

[Leigh Betsch]

You could always try the drill press. I sold my Oliver lathe a bout a year ago because I'm just not a wood turner, just don't like it. But I do have a metal lathe that I do like to use. So when I do have a small wood lathe project like a handle I just turn it on my Southbend metal lathe. And I use the lantern toolpost and turn it like metal rather than use the wood chisels.
But you might be able to chuck it up in a drill press spindle and do some sort of turning, I'm guessing someone has done this before. I've only used the drill press technique to sand cylindrical parts.

[Dale Sautter]

Maybe is someone knows of any tutorials without the use of lathes.

Lots of ways to skin that cat depending on your tooling or inclination:

Drill Press Lathe
http://www.instructables.com/id/Drill-Press-Lathe/

Grizzly H8071 Lathe Attachment for Drill Press
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H8071-Lathe-Attachment-Drill/dp/B000M64S28

Drill press lathe from bicycle hub
http://www.bolis.com/amillar/tools/drill-press-lathe-bicycle-hub

Maroccan Bow Lathe
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnv0DAR_gWA&feature=player_embedded#

hth

[Callan Campbell]

I still use an X-acto knife if needed for a thin blade, but wanted a better marking knife. I tried a really poor Crown Tool knife, and then found Daves tools through TFWW's website. I bought his tulipwood knife through them back in 2008, very nice and it led me to the SMC site later on. :rolleyes:

[Tom Henderson2]

+1 on Hock marking knives.

I just use them sans handles; I have found I prefer the flat knife to one with a round handle.

Lots of choices!

[John Schreiber]

A lathe isn't necessary. There's no reason for a knife to be round; in fact, since the blade is distinctly beveled I made mine so that the form of the knife matched the bevel of the blade. The handle is flat on the side where the blade is flat. I made this specifically for marking narrow dove tails - tails first.

148850 148851

The steel is ground down from an old straight razor and the handle is from a bit of spalted birch which I found.

Having used it for a while, I would increase the size of the finger depression.

[Tony Shea]

Well I don't have a drill press either but that last video you posted was neat as hell. That guy seemmed pretty good at what he does, if only I had that much coordination with my toes. Nice vid man.

[Derek Cohen]

My problem with making my own confortable handles is the fact I am not in possesion of a lathe, which seems as though is assumed. I sure I could carve somethign out but woudl probably not be the feel that I am after. Maybe is someone knows of any tutorials without the use of lathes.

Hi Tony

Here you go then ... :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnv0DAR_gWA&feature=player_embedded

Regards from Perth

Derek