Bandsaw issue Help please.

[Louie Ballis]

I have a grizzly g0555 bandsaw set up with a 6 inch riser block. Eveytime I use a thin blade (3/16) it seems to want to ride up to the front (side nearest to the operator) and has occasionally jumped off the tires complety (even though they are "co-planer"-girzzlyspeak).

Question are the European Bandsaw guides worth the expense?

I dont seem to have this problem with wider blades >1/2 inch, but they still do want to ride to the front of the tires.

PS I check the set-up as to being co-planer by putting a straight edge (in case a framing level) on the lower tire contacting both the upper and lower edges and doing the same on the upper tire, at tension I am doing that wrong?

[Eric DeSilva]

PS I check the set-up as to being co-planer by putting a straight edge (in case a framing level) on the lower tire contacting both the upper and lower edges and doing the same on the upper tire, at tension I am doing that wrong?

To check that the wheel are co-planar, you would have to have the straightedge contact the top/bottom of both the top and bottom wheels at the same time. The idea is to ensure that both wheels are even with one another. I wasn't sure if that was what you were doing or not...

[Alan Schwabacher]

It is good to have the wheels close to coplanar, but it's most important for wider blades. As the wheel coplanarity will depend on tension (unless your frame is absolutely rigid) you should adjust that with your largest blade tensioned. Then just adjust the tracking to make whatever blade you use ride properly. If the blade tends to come off toward you, you definitely need to change the tracking. When you switch back to a wider blade, just reset the tracking so the blade rides and cuts properly, and the wheels will be sufficiently coplanar.

[Louie Ballis]

To check that the wheel are co-planar, you would have to have the straightedge contact the top/bottom of both the top and bottom wheels at the same time. The idea is to ensure that both wheels are even with one another. I wasn't sure if that was what you were doing or not...

Thanks Eric that is what I meant. You just said it better.

When I check the wheels I do check them (top and Bottom) at the same time and in the same plane.

[Van Huskey]

The usual suspects have been mentioned re tracking.

As for guides the Euro guides are not as good in my minds as the Carter guides or certainly the Laguna guides, the latter probably the best out there. BUT, for 1/4" and smaller blades get a Carter stabilizer, excellent for small blades and cheap compared to any guide set. The Carter site has a neat video on them.

[Louie Ballis]

Thanks Van

The Carter guides were the ones I was thinking of. I found them doing a goggle search for the euro guides.

If you think that they will help then I'll go ahead.

[Dave MacArthur]

actually someone posted a nice "small blade" guide idea here just the other day, they took oak and soaked it in motor oil, about a 1/2 wide piece by 1/2" deep x 2" tall. Stand it vertically, cut a slot in it partway through for the blade to ride in, then pinch this new "cool block" between the euro guides to give 2" high super support for small blades.

I can't find the thread, as I've been reading band saw threads back 5 years here all weekend... ahh here it is:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1402217

[Van Huskey]

Thanks Van

The Carter guides were the ones I was thinking of. I found them doing a goggle search for the euro guides.

If you think that they will help then I'll go ahead.

I think the Carter guides are great BUT the stabilizer does a lot more good for narrow blades and a lot cheaper. Then again the combo of the guide retrofit and stabilizer is even better.

[Louie Ballis]

Just saw the video on the Carter stabilzer. For a bandsaw. I guess you remove both upper and lower guide block sets in order to use it. But why then does Carter sell upgrades of the guideblocks?

Does any have any first hand experiance with this? and if so does it work as demonstrated (generally for me, things dont work like they do on the info-mercial). LOL.

[Pete Bradley]

The band should ride without any guides at all. Different bands will want different settings of the track knob. If no track adjustment will do, check the crown of the tires as this has far more influence on tracking than coplanar. How old are the tires? You may be able to recrown but it's probably better to just replace them.

[Brendan Plavis]

Maybe a ZCI would work to keep them at the right distance. Now sure, it will cut through it, but maybe it needs a bit of a guide to the front of it/resistance.

Pardon my ignorance, but are you certain that the blade is being set directly in the tire center? Thats the only thing I can think of that would permit it to wander forward. I heard also that some tires tilt(sounded funny, but could be) if that is something they do, I would advise checking that...

[John Coloccia]

The band should ride without any guides at all. Different bands will want different settings of the track knob. If no track adjustment will do, check the crown of the tires as this has far more influence on tracking than coplanar. How old are the tires? You may be able to recrown but it's probably better to just replace them.

Bingo. The band should be tensioned and the tracking set without the guides touching. The only time i've had a band jump the tires is when I've changed blades and forgotten to check the tracking.

I couldn't get the Carter Stabilizer to fit my saw unfortunately, but it sure looked very sweet.

[Van Huskey]

Just saw the video on the Carter stabilzer. For a bandsaw. I guess you remove both upper and lower guide block sets in order to use it. But why then does Carter sell upgrades of the guideblocks?

Does any have any first hand experiance with this? and if so does it work as demonstrated (generally for me, things dont work like they do on the info-mercial). LOL.


First, Pete is correct the blade should track properly with no guides at all so that needs to be addressed first.

As to the Carter Stabilizer it does work as advertised HOWEVER switching it in and out is NOT as quick as they portray, but not a big deal 'cause your usually changing the blade when you set it up. The full guide conversion is sold because they don't perform the same function the stabilzer ONLY works with thin blades, the full guide set works for all widths. It makes me grin saying all this when the bottom line is all this is the best excuse to have two bandsaws one for resaw and one for curve work.

[glenn bradley]

But why then does Carter sell upgrades of the guideblocks? Does any have any first hand experiance with this? and if so does it work as demonstrated (generally for me, things dont work like they do on the info-mercial). LOL.

I'd hold off a bit till you figure out what's going on with your blade tracking . . . see below.


The band should ride without any guides at all.

Yeah, what he said . . . :)


Bingo. The band should be tensioned and the tracking set without the guides touching.

Yeah, what he said too . . . :D

I'll just reaffirm that the blade needs to track correctly before you go throwing money at the wrong solution. When I am adjusting my 17" (1/4" through 3/4" blades) or my little 10" (1/8" through 3/8" blades) I use the flutter method (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp). Not every blade type uses this method but most non-carbide blades will work with it. Also, not all woodworkers subscribe to the method but it works for me. If the blade has a tendency to wander I would not be able to use this method.

We know that your wheels are co-planer and that is a good thing. Can you, through adjusting the upper wheel, make the blade track toward the front, rear or middle at your choice? If you cannot place the blades tracking where you want it, something is influencing the blade that we do not want. Have you inspected your wheels for any irregularities?

[Louie Ballis]

Van Huskey

PMed you earlier.

Thanks

Louie