Old vs New Design NYW Router Table?????

[Norman Hitt]

My Buddy has a set of plans for the Original NYW Router Table, and has finally decided to build one. I have seen the program for the New Design, which (naturally) aired about three or four weeks after he got the Original plans, but I just can't remember all the differences. I (even recorded it, but can't find the tape), so my question is, what are the differences besides relocating the "Power Switch", some creative Fairing to better direct the dust into the dust outlet, and two drawers instead of one at the bottom? Are there any changes in the dimensions or total size, or size of the table top? We are not interested in any of the fence changes, as he doesn't plan to use that fence anyhow.

I guess the real question is, is there anything I haven't mentioned that would make it enough better, to warrant ordering the plans for the new design? I know we can make any changes to the electrical and DC parts without new plans, and he hasn't decided yet if he wants one or two bottom drawers either. If it was for me, I'd just build one from scratch, but I want him to be happy, and Commit to a design "Before" we start cutting wood.

Thanks,.......Norm

[Keith Starosta]

I have both the plans and the tape, but haven't watched it for quite a while. Several other projects keep popping up unfortunately. However, I remember a couple of the "major" differences to be dust collection and the fence. I'll take a look at the plans tonight and report back to you tomorrow.

Keith

[Bryan Nuss]

I built the "new" version a few months ago and really like it. The fences work great and the drawers (both bit and storage) are the answer.

However, I made a couple modifications which have (at least to me) greatly improved the use of the table:

The first was to install a piano hinge joining the table top to the base along the back. I installed a short 3/4" x 3/4" stick hinged on a machine bolt through the wall of the "electrical" drawer to support the table top open. Having the table top hinged has a couple advantages .... you can easily get at the router to make adjustments or to remove the router, and you can easily sight along the table top to set router bit heights. This essentially makes the "see-through" front door redundant. This door as designed by NYW is too flimsy anyway. If I were to do it all over again, I would just eliminate the door and board it over (BUT you would still need the holes to provide enough air to the DC).

The second was to enlarge and change the shape of the opening for dust collection in the router compartment. I found that the "as-designed" dust collection in this compartment was inadequate. The addition of a manifold box on the back to allow a straight run into the compartment and to receive the hose from the fence, and a rotating elbow to accomodate a 6" DC flex hose made a vast improvement. I slightly modified the fence DC intake by making a 45 degree piece to mount the fitting.

Below are some pictures. If you have any questions, just let me know.

[Tyler Howell]

Very Nice Bryon,

I like the Hinged top, makes real good sence!
Thanks for sharing

[Scott Parks]

Nice work. I've had the old plans and video for years, but never got around to building it yet. How good does the DC work with this set-up?

[Bryan Nuss]

The 6" DC from the cyclone works very well in keeping the router chamber clean. The "original" 3" hole (with its bottom edge just touching the floor) did not work well at all in getting the dust and chips out of the chamber. One of the secrets is to keep the router cord length to a minimum inside the chamber to prevent chip and dust accumulation and the other is to get a slick finish on the wood inside the chamber. I used 2 coats of varathane. The sloping back face in the chamber in the NYW version is more of a hindrance than a help in dust collection, in my opinion.

The 2-1/2" hose to the fence works great and takes anything you throw at it. The right angle made by the 2-1/2" hose to the manifold box is positioned just before the 6" elbow and performs well. I don't see any need for a 'Y' connection, given the 6" suction and no accumulations of sawdust form in the manifold box.

As to how many holes to put in the door of the router chamber, I would put the equivalent of about 12 square inches (i.e. a 4" circle equivalent). In any case, you need enough to prevent the cyclone motor from overloading. I also made the rectangular opening in the router chamber to the manifold box 12 square inches.

I have found the fences to be very useful and would encourage anyone to build them at the same time as the cabinet. In any case, you need them to collect sawdust when edge routing.

[Norman Hitt]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

"Keith", I sure would appreciate your checking those differences.

"Bryan", Those are some good mods there, and thanks for the great pics. I especially liked the hinged top too.

Cheers..........Norm

[Kent Cori]

Norman,

I built a customized version of the original design. The photo below shows it alongside the mobile SCMS work station I completed last month.

Changes I made included, mounting it on 3" casters, adding another 3" of height, using Euro drawer slides for the small drawers, increasing the width 4" and putting that in the drawers, and using my own fence design. I made the door of Plexiglas but a solid door would have worked as well. I added a light inside the router box but would not do so if I built it again. You'll want to make sure the clear drawer height of the bit storage drawers is tall enough to take your longest bit.

I also added a four outlet box to the back and wired two of them to the start switch. I use my shop vac for dust removal and just plug it into one of these outlets. When I turn on the router, the shop vac comes on at the same time.

Finally, I bought a prefabricated table top from Woodhaven. When I added up the cost of materials, this was only a few dollars more and required no time on my part to make.

Overall, I have been very happy with the design after using it for over two years. I don't plan to build another one as this one easily meets all my needs and desired. :)

[Bart Leetch]

I really like your router table it look great & very functional.



"As to how many holes to put in the door of the router chamber, I would put the equivalent of about 12 square inches (i.e. a 4" circle equivalent). In any case, you need enough to prevent the cyclone motor from overloading. I also made the rectangular opening in the router chamber to the manifold box 12 square inches."

You could shut the flow off completely & not overload the cyclone motor. (if you have the power or to thin of a duct you might collapse it) It is to much air & or to large of a diameter duct or inlet that will overload the cyclone or fan system & thus overload the motor. This is why they caution against running it with out at least a length of duct of somewhere between 4' & 10' long.
It will run just fine with no air load it just spins with no resistance. Mine has been left running for several minutes maybe as much 30 minutes with all blast gates closed with no effect at all. :)

[Dave Carey]

Bryan - Piano hinge is a good idea. I just finished my table and wish I had thought of it. Plan on adding it soon. Also got some tips from the following website - think the author is a member as well: http://www.just4fun.org/woodworking/index.htm One tip was to attach the top right drawer front with magnets to make getting to the cords easier. Unfortunately. I didn't see that one until I had glued the sucker in place. Other tip helped in making the slots for the fence in the top, working from the underside. I stuck with Norm's design with the door and the dust collection. Neither works particularly well. No pictures because other than your choice of color for the laminate, they all pretty much look alike!

[Bart Leetch]

Bryan

How high is the top of your router table off the floor???

[Bryan Nuss]

Bart,

The top of the table is 37-1/4" off the floor. I'm 5'10" and find the height good for working.

[Norman Hitt]

Norman,

I built a customized version of the original design. The photo below shows it alongside the mobile SCMS work station I completed last month.

Changes I made included, mounting it on 3" casters, adding another 3" of height, using Euro drawer slides for the small drawers, increasing the width 4" and putting that in the drawers, and using my own fence design. I made the door of Plexiglas but a solid door would have worked as well. I added a light inside the router box but would not do so if I built it again. You'll want to make sure the clear drawer height of the bit storage drawers is tall enough to take your longest bit.

I also added a four outlet box to the back and wired two of them to the start switch. I use my shop vac for dust removal and just plug it into one of these outlets. When I turn on the router, the shop vac comes on at the same time.

Finally, I bought a prefabricated table top from Woodhaven. When I added up the cost of materials, this was only a few dollars more and required no time on my part to make.

Overall, I have been very happy with the design after using it for over two years. I don't plan to build another one as this one easily meets all my needs and desired. :)


Kent, NICE Job, on both the RT and the SCMS work table. I especially liked the addition of width to the small drawers, both for the room and the looks. It seems to give the appearance more "Balance", IMHO. The elec box wiring is a great idea also, as well as the Euro Slides.

That was a neat job of carring the grain pattern through on the divider between the two top drawers of the SCMS table. We plan to put castors of some type on the one we build also, and will adjust the overall height, if necessary, to fit my Buddy's "Comfort Zone". Thanks for sharing the info and Pics.

Cheers, and "Saw Safe".........Norm

[Larry D. Wagner]

:) I've built two router tables(both modified versions of a WOOD Magazine design) and both have hinged tops. Once you use the hinged top I don't think you would want to do it any other way. They make access so easy.

Larry D. Wagner :) ;) :)