Need Help Selecting A Router For My Table

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I need help with selecting the right router for the table I expect to get. I have decided on the MLCS Cast top with gas springs. I call MLCS and they recommended the PC-892. They indicated they are happy with the one attached to the table in their shop. I read a lot of reviews on the PC-7518. Complaints were, heat, loud, hard to adjust and speed switch needs to be cleaned out with air from time to time. Several people complained that this router does not work well upside down because of the dust problem.Some of these reviews were back in early 2001-2006. I wonder if improvements have been made. I like it's weight to hold down on vibration. The 892 develops 12 amps and the 7518 is 15. Also, If you own one of these, is there enough adjustment for this table that can not have a lift? I do not want to use a collet extension. I guess I'll start reading about Bosch and see what they have to offer. I really like the 7518 but fear it is not as good as advertised.

[glenn bradley]

In a table, more power is better. This is not always true for hand-helds. Many folks like their 7518's but I went with Milwaukee's 5625. I have run it almost daily for a couple of years without incident. I do have adequate dust collection above and below the table and I do have the motor in a Woodpecker PRL lift.

I don't know if the problems with the 7518 occurred in tables with adequate dust collection but suspect they did not. I do know that I never even think about the 5625 except when I change speeds for larger bits. That's the only time I ever open the door and the speed control is front and center. The thing just runs; its a locomotive.

[John Morrison60]

+1 for the Milwaukee 5625.
It used to be on Pat Warner's list of best router table powerplants.

I also have it in a PRL V2 lift. Love the soft start.

Good luck
John

[Roger Everett]

I have a PC7518 -VS, bought , mainly for use in router table, in 1992. Never had a problem, and still going strong. This has always been the standard for RT use. Great also for hand use. Many think the weight is a problem in hand use, but, the slow start and power, make the weight, no problem. At 3 1/4 hp, it is the one for large its , like raised panel bits-- large profile bits , etc. One of the things that impressed me when I bought it was a FWW mag. article ( back then ), which also mentioned the size of the bearings. Making it a hardy, heavy dutty router.

Roger

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Roger...Will the 7518 work well on a table that cant have a lift? Is there enough adjustment to raise and lower the bit?

[glenn bradley]

Johnny, I glossed over your statement about no lift. If you are looking to change bits from above the table, neither the 7518 of 5625 are good candidates unless you like fooling with bent wrenches. Bent wrenches aren't a problem per se, it is just that no one seems to make them out of anything but stamped material and several folks have complained about their eventual failure. YMMV. Freud and Triton make routers designed for table use with longer collet necks.

I believe the whole idea of the tilting table is to give you access to the motor for bit changes. Before I got the lift I would just drop the motor out of the base. With the 5625 that is a latch and a button. Someone with a 7518 will probably chime in and explain the motor release on that router. It is probably just as easy but some routers require twisting and lining things up just right to remove and replace the motor. This is not a pleasant exercise while upside down.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I just read a zillion reviews on the 5625-20. The only real complaints are about the material the raise and lower lift is made out of. I feel like I will be going with the 5625-20. We use a lot of Mill's (drills, saws ) at work and they last very well. Yep!! going to get the 5625.

One of the reviews was on the table I am going to buy and the owner was real happy with it.

Thanks
Johnny

[Peter Aeschliman]

I just bought a Triton router. I like it because it has a built in lift mechanism. You can change bits above the table as long as your table insert is 1/2" thick or less. When you raise the router all the way, it automatically locks the collet so you only need one wrench to change the bits.

My thinking is, why spend $300 plunge router, then spend $300 on a lift when you can buy a $300 router that has the lift built in?

I bought the 2.25 HP version because I don't need more power than that for the kind of work I do, but they also sell a 3.25 HP router.

EDIT: my understanding is that the triton routers have the same mounting screw pattern as the PC 7518. So if your table has a plate that fits the 7518, you can mount the Tritons.

[glenn bradley]

I just read a zillion reviews on the 5625-20. The only real complaints are about the material the raise and lower lift is made out of. I feel like I will be going with the 5625-20. We use a lot of Mill's (drills, saws ) at work and they last very well. Yep!! going to get the 5625.

One of the reviews was on the table I am going to buy and the owner was real happy with it.

Thanks
Johnny

There were some claims a few years ago about the screw mechanism failing. You could definitely damage the adjustment mechanism by trying to adjust while the carriage is locked if you were persistent :rolleyes:. There were some bearing problems as well when the units first came out (years ago) and those cases were repaired by Milwaukee. I think you will be one happy camper.

[Ray Newman]

I have a PC 7518 and it is workhorse.

With any router, and any other dust creating tool, it is always wise to blow it out when done. Doubt that the PC 7518 design is any more or any less susceptible to DC than other routers.

I blow out my routers and sanders with compressed air at the end of the day. So far, this protocol has worked well. Every little bit of preventative maintenance goes a long way.

With a router in a table, DC is important. The biggest problem with routers in a router table, esp. those that are in an enclosed compartment is DC air flow. Too little and the DC 'ain't gonna' draw.

On my router cabinet, a 5" DC hose draws the dust from a 4" port in the cabinet back with a 2 1/2" port on the fence. Recently ran a few raised panels with a 3"+ dia. bit and was 'sorta' surprised that there was only a trace of dust remaining in the cabinet.

Once while running the DC, I placed my hand in front of the router compartment door, which has a 1/2" gap across the bottom to replenish the air the DC sucks in. A great deal of air moved into the cabinet and hose. Good air flow is needed for the DC to draw.

Now if the router table is an open design, and the DC is on top, how is the dust from the work collected?? Seems that it will just fall to the floor. On edge work, the DC will draw, but when using a raised panel bit, how much dust will the DC pull??

As for overheating or getting warm, my PC 7518 runs a great deal cooler than my PC 690 when it is the other router table. Again, good air low will keep the tool cooler.

'Dunno' about the PC 7518 height adjustment and exactly how much you’ll need. I have mine in a Wood Peck router lift. Seems that the amount of height adjustment you’ll loose depends upon how thick the top and the router plate are??

For ease of bit change, I use bent wrenches. No problem with them, but then again I don't apply gorilla-like force tightening the bits either.

[Dennis Lopeman]

I second (third?) the TRITON. I have the 3 HP one since it stays in my table. I also own 5 other routers, so I can afford to let it stay!! It literally take me seconds to change a bit... unless I have to take out the clearance insert... then we are talking a minute. (mostly cuz I have to hunt for the little tool think to pull the insert out!)

On drawback is that you do all your adjustments, power on/off, speed control from under the table. But that won't slow you down. Bit changes do and this thing has that licked!

I went with the higher HP one for the same reason mentioned above - if it's going to stay in a table, you might as well have more power.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

On the 5625-20 if you take the motor out and change a bit, once the motor is back in will that bit be at the same height? I have some matched bits for rail and stile.

[Dennis Lopeman]

probably not my place to answer and I don't even have that router... but I do have rail and stile experience...

Couple things jumped out at me here...

first - you are hijaking! LOL - joking

I don't think there is such a feature in any router, is there? Have I missed some fundamental lesson all these years???

also... don't seat your bit ALL the way down into the router chuck. leave a little gap at the bottom. Helps reduce chatter and such... somewhere I read a little trick - cut a tiny piece of rubber like you use to open jars with and fit/glue it down in the bottom - that way your bit will never bottom out on the arbor.

And will that being said, you will never get the same height with "matched" bits...

Always measure. I use these little brass guide bar thingies... then I choose one (usually the smallest one) and match it up with a part on the bit... like the first cut. Wow - this is hard to describe!!

Another trick I used was cutting my rail ends first (ABSOLUTELY using a sled) and used that piece to figure out where the other bit had to be.

And that's the other thing. You should have a sled, which will also make it difficult to match the height - the sled requires the bit to be higher...

you see?

[Van Huskey]

Lift 7518
No lift either of the two Tritons

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Hi Dennis..I have a 3 hp Delta shaper. I have some matched rail and stile bits and the set up jig from Sommerfeld. When using the rubber grommet the bits will exchange and work perfect. It takes a little trial and error to get it right. You just have to get use to tightening the same amount and they match. The only reason I want a router table is to get more RPM's for smaller bits. If I could get another pulley for my shaper, I would never consider a router table.

[Dennis Lopeman]

oh ok... just be careful. until I had a sled, piece would literally be pulled from my finger and flung across the shop! I was just using the miter in the beginning. Then I made a sled.

[glenn bradley]

On the 5625-20 if you take the motor out and change a bit, once the motor is back in will that bit be at the same height? I have some matched bits for rail and stile.

Possible depending on your acceptable tolerances but, not likely. I have read some folks threads about going through all kinds of hi-jinx to be able to swap bits of a set and have things match up. IMHO, once the first profile is cut, you have a built-in height gauge for the matching bit. Adjusting to match is not a magic art ;-) No worries.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Dennis...could you please go into a little detail on the sled construction...maybe a pic??

I have built several doors but never had the shaper throw one of the pcs out when cutting the end. I use a 1 hp feeder when running the long pcs. I'm glade I never get that relaxed feeling when running the machines. Maybe if I stay afraid of them I will be safe enough to not get hurt.

Thanks
Johnny

[Dennis Lopeman]

Yup - Zactly! LOL

THere's a thread here somewhere - do a search for "rail coping sled" or something...

Here it is: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=40640

Glenn started it showing his sled off. Mine is just like his with a couple minor adaptations.

A good read! And a good tool. If I were to improve mine, I would use a base that didn't flex... I noticed when I put those clamps down real hard that the whole thing flexed a little... so I had to losen them, therefore making it less tight... and possibly less safe... But I have been very successful without any issues.

the sandpaper is a must, BTW!