Shooting Boards and the Correct Plane

[David Nelson1]

Hey all,

This is my first post to NH and I was wondering what would be the correct all round plane for a shooting board. I'm sure this is a preference thing, but I saw quite a few different planes being used while I was searching. I have a Stanley number 3 that was my great grandpa's. It still had some good shaving jamming it up so I played with it till I was able to get a fairly smooth cut. I have a lot technique to learn before I try to flatten a big ole table top or something LOL

[Tony Shea]

I think a low angle jack plane is the best all around shooting plane as it buzzes end grain effortlessly. It can also be used for long grain situations. Really it is a very versitile plane especially if you consider different blades with different angles ground on them. Lie Nielson's is a very fine example of one. LV also offers a good version. I believe there was a thread on this a little while back.

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[gary Zimmel]

I don't think there is a correct one as different woodworkers use different ones to shoot with.
Me I use a LN #9 that is dedicated for shooting.
If I didn't have the #9 and had to buy one, it would be a 5 1/2
To me the 5 1/2 could be used for a few things not only shooting.
I'm sure others will chime in to say what they use...

[David Nelson1]

Nice looking tools, but they maybe a bit outta my price range.

[Tri Hoang]

Pretty much any bench plane will work but finding a comfortable one is a personal thing. I like to use my Veritas LA jack. A sharp blade is a must.

[Rob Fisher]

Lower angles seem to work better when cutting end grain. If you are looking for a cheaper option some have used low angle block planes, depends upon the thickness of material you will be shooting.

Rob

[David Nelson1]

Lower angles seem to work better when cutting end grain. If you are looking for a cheaper option some have used low angle block planes, depends upon the thickness of material you will be shooting.

Rob

3/4 to 1 inch. I looked at those already. Seems to me they are all about the same price 20-30 bucks isn't much of a difference. Just gotta convience myself to spend that much on one hand tool. LOL

[Russell Sansom]

I landed on a #8 decades ago and just got used to it. The momentum, the long side to give it a bit more bearing, and the running length of the #8 always felt right. For the first few months it was probably awkward to grip, but I don't remember. I never even questioned it, in fact. Now that I hear other opinions, I'll try some a low angle and see how it feels.
A LN #9 is in the mail and that just seems like the perfect solution.

[David Nelson1]

I landed on a #8 decades ago and just got used to it. The momentum, the long side to give it a bit more bearing, and the running length of the #8 always felt right. For the first few months it was probably awkward to grip, but I don't remember. I never even questioned it, in fact. Now that I hear other opinions, I'll try some a low angle and see how it feels.
A LN #9 is in the mail and that just seems like the perfect solution.

I went to the LN site and didn't see the #9. Where did you get yours?

[Jeff Burks]

The LN #9 Iron Miter Plane (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=9) is grouped with the Block Planes.

[David Nelson1]

The LN #9 Iron Miter Plane (http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=9) is grouped with the Block Planes.

Wow, not exactly what I was expecting. Thanks for the heads up seems as if its just what the doctor ordered.

[Jeff Burks]

LN has a video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMpp9xj9pVU) on YouTube showing the #9 in action.

And there are other shooting board videos there as well. 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XycqnPGcbvM) 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npd0wnpjKa8) 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xOJAjdGZUY&feature=related) etc.

[Casey Gooding]

I use an old Stanley #6. Works great.

[David Nelson1]

What the heck don't they have on the internet these days. That plane was much larger than what it seemed on the LN site. I'm sold!!!

[Jim Belair]

A Low Angle Jack as suggested by Tony and Tri is a MUCH more versatile choice than a #9 which is dedicated for shooting board use only. The LAJ can be used for smoothing and jointing as well as end grain work and do a great job at all 3 tasks (especially if other angle blades added). If you have an old #3 now and looking to buy a second plane, get the LAJ. Don't even consider the #9.

Welcome to the Creek. You'll find lots of good info here to guide you on the journey

Jim B

[Jeff Burks]

There are also many nice guides to making (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%20a%20Shooting%20Board4 .html) shooting boards.

You may also want to read this recent blog entry:
Lie-Nielsen to Make a No. 51 Chute-board Plane (http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/LieNielsen+To+Make+A+No+51+Chuteboard+Plane.aspx)

[Jim Koepke]

David,

Welcome to the Neander Cave by the Creek.

One place to look:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/index.html

Derek has a lot of good information. I made a hot dog of my own that fits on my #5-1/2 and my #6 for use on a shooting board. I have also used a lever cap style #65-1/2 block plane. My #5s are too small to affix a proper hot dog, but they do well for shooting also.

Recently, a LN #62 was purchased with a hot dog and is now my go to plane for shooting. It is also useful for other tasks.

The #9 is a very nice plane, but a bit limited for my needs. Maybe if the wife and I win the lottery she will let me get one.

Many planes can do the work, even a #3. Finding a way to hold the plane when shooting is the tricky part. If you only do a little shooting, it my not be prudent to buy a special plane for the purpose. That is why a low angle jack with flat sides is suggested by many.

jim

[Tri Hoang]

A Low Angle Jack as suggested by Tony and Tri is a MUCH more versatile choice than a #9 which is dedicated for shooting board use only. The LAJ can be used for smoothing and jointing as well as end grain work and do a great job at all 3 tasks (especially if other angle blades added).
Jim B

Once you start using the plane for shooting, especially on narrow boards, it pretty much render the blade undesirable for smoothing unless you want to take a trip to the sharpening station.

[Sam Takeuchi]

While everyone is suggesting fancy options, I think $10 - $50 vintage #5, #5-1/2, #6 would adequately serve as a shooting plane. Or if you happen to come across one, Record T5, all of them a lot cheaper than LN or LV options.

[Jim Koepke]

Once you start using the plane for shooting, especially on narrow boards, it pretty much render the blade undesirable for smoothing unless you want to take a trip to the sharpening station.


This is supposedly one of the reasons to use an declined ramp on a shooting board. It uses more of the blade and if the plane is moving in a downward motion on the wood it helps to hold it in place. If my memory is working, one of Derek Cohen's plans is for such a shooting board.


While everyone is suggesting fancy options, I think $10 - $50 vintage #5, #5-1/2, #6 would adequately serve as a shooting plane. Or if you happen to come across one, Record T5, all of them a lot cheaper than LN or LV options.

Sam,

You are correct. If one wants an inexpensive way to shoot end grain just about any plane that can get the blade perpendicular to the shooting ramp will work. My most used before buying the #62 was a wide block plane. The plane most likely used for shooting board duty is the #5.

My experience with using bench planes was that the block plane was my most comfortable plane until a "hot dog" was made to use on my bigger bench planes. That is when it became pretty much a toss up between the #5-1/2 and the #6.

If a person is only doing a little bit of end grain shooting, then comfort of use is not as important than if they are doing a lot of shooting.

jim