Delta T2 Fence installation trouble...

[Michael Dunn]

I have just tried install the T2 fence on my Delta TS300. I knew I would have to drill some holes, which is no problem. However, I cannot drill the holes high enough to allow the fence (front part by the cam lock) to make contact with the table top. I estimate that it needs to be dropped by 3/4"!!! That is quite a bit.

I first thought that I would drill a hole in the guide rail 3/8" higher and a hole in the cast iron table 3/8" and split the difference. There simply isn't enough room.

I'll keep brain storming, meanwhile... Any tips would be more than welcome.

Thanx,

shotgunn

[Dan Friedrichs]

There are 2 nylon screws on the piece perpendicular to the fence that allow adjustment of the height that the fence rides above the table - are they backed out?

The front fence rail should be ~3/4" lower than the table top. If your table isn't thick enough, you may need to get creative with some angle iron.

[Michael Dunn]

That is what I what I was thinking. Will aluminum suffice? Or should I go with steel? I have aluminum laying around, steel is readily available at the big box stores.


There are 2 nylon screws on the piece perpendicular to the fence that allow adjustment of the height that the fence rides above the table - are they backed out?

The front fence rail should be ~3/4" lower than the table top. If your table isn't thick enough, you may need to get creative with some angle iron.

[Michael Dunn]

I am aware of the nylon screws. They are about 3/8" above the table. The guide tube is far too high because the mounting is not low enough.

I just picked up some steel angle at Lowes. I have a pretty solid plan as to how I can fasten it to the cast iron table in the center and also to the MDF extension wings with threaded inserts epoxied in place.

If all goes well tonight in the shop (unlike last night) I should have it all together and ready to make some sawdust.

I'll keep you posted.

shotgunn


That is what I what I was thinking. Will aluminum suffice? Or should I go with steel? I have aluminum laying around, steel is readily available at the big box stores.

[Michael Dunn]

Well, the fence installation is finsihed. I have it adjusted for perpendicularlarity and squareness. However, I am unable to clamp the cam lever all the way.

I have read and re-read the manual a dozen times. Am I missing something? What else could there be?

Thanx,

shotgunn

[Dan Friedrichs]

It dosn't go "all the way" down - there's no "positive" stop once you've pushed it far enough. You just push it down until the fence is tight. If you push more, nothing happens. Am I understanding the problem?

[Michael Dunn]

It does not latch. On all other fences I have used there is usually a solid 'click' when it has positively latched. I do not experience this. Even my cheap-o factory fence latched. In the pics form the manual for the T2 the cam lever is almost all the way down when locked. Mine is pointing straight towards me. It doesn't seem right.

Does that make better sense?

Thanx,

shotgunn


It dosn't go "all the way" down - there's no "positive" stop once you've pushed it far enough. You just push it down until the fence is tight. If you push more, nothing happens. Am I understanding the problem?

[Justin Chen]

Mine doesn't click when fully locked. It's a friction stop, the metal bar presses against the metal tube locking it in place. However, my handle is most of the way down when I have it locked.

[Michael Dunn]

How far is your guide tube (square tube w/ measuring tape) from the fence rail (angel iron)? It seems like mine may be too close. I didn't modify any of that. I used all of the factory hole for mounting the guide tube. I also thought that maybe the adjustment screws (for squareness) were too close, but they are not.

Can you take a measurement for me. Also can you take another pic from the top showing the distance from from the guide tube to the table?

Thanx,

shotgunn


Mine doesn't click when fully locked. It's a friction stop, the metal bar presses against the metal tube locking it in place. However, my handle is most of the way down when I have it locked.

[Bobby O'Neal]

Mine is the same way. Doesn't click or lock and isn't pointed much past 90 degrees when its fully locked. But when its tight, its really tight. Fence doesn't budge.

[Justin Chen]

How far is your guide tube (square tube w/ measuring tape) from the fence rail (angel iron)? It seems like mine may be too close. I didn't modify any of that. I used all of the factory hole for mounting the guide tube. I also thought that maybe the adjustment screws (for squareness) were too close, but they are not.

Can you take a measurement for me. Also can you take another pic from the top showing the distance from from the guide tube to the table?

Thanx,

shotgunn


I didn't modify my guide tube either. The end of the guide tube is about 3" from the front of the table.

Sorry if the pictures doesn't show enough (I'm working on a project and don't want to move the setting).

Do you have any photos showing your issue?

Reading through the manual did you go through the "Adjusting the Clamping Action of the Fence-Locking Handle" on page 8. There are two hex screws that you can adjust.

[Michael Dunn]

The pics are perfect. Thanx for your time!!!

So far, it looks like ours are setup identical. My handle won't clamp further down than about 90 degrees.

Really the only variable is that I had to heavily modify my guide rail and table with some alum angle. That beings said, long before I completed that step, I did a test fit. Even then the handle would not fully clamp.

I did read that section. It seems as though the screws would be too tight. However, they were barely contacting the fence at all.

When the fence is off of the guide tube the handle swings freely. So I know the handle itself has a good range of motion. It is only when it tries to clamp down.

This is crazy, it is such a simple design. I just know I am gonna smack myself once I figure it out.

I'll upload some pics when I get home in a few hours.

Thanx,

shotgunn


I didn't modify my guide tube either. The end of the guide tube is about 3" from the front of the table.

Sorry if the pictures doesn't show enough (I'm working on a project and don't want to move the setting).

Do you have any photos showing your issue?

Reading through the manual did you go through the "Adjusting the Clamping Action of the Fence-Locking Handle" on page 8. There are two hex screws that you can adjust.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Michael,
I think you perceive a problem when none exists. When I press mine down, it doesn't even get close to 90 degrees.

Does the fence not stay tightly in place? I guess I don't understand what is "wrong"...

[Michael Dunn]

Based the pics in the manual and the pics shown here something is definitely wrong. When I say 90 degrees I mean my handle points straight towards me when it is locked. The pics suggest that it should point more downward.

When I try to lock it all the way I feel something may break. The back end of the fence lifts up from the table. I know that I am not using the rear rail because of my table design. This causes me to have to put one hand on the rear part of the fence to hold it down.

I'll take some pics now and upload them.

shotgunn


Michael,
I think you perceive a problem when none exists. When I press mine down, it doesn't even get close to 90 degrees.

Does the fence not stay tightly in place? I guess I don't understand what is "wrong"...

[Justin Chen]

Based the pics in the manual and the pics shown here something is definitely wrong. When I say 90 degrees I mean my handle points straight towards me when it is locked. The pics suggest that it should point more downward.

When I try to lock it all the way I feel something may break. The back end of the fence lifts up from the table. I know that I am not using the rear rail because of my table design. This causes me to have to put one hand on the rear part of the fence to hold it down.

I'll take some pics now and upload them.

shotgunn

Well since you had to modify the angle irons I'm guessing they are out a little farther out than a normal table. Based on that, the locking mechanism will engage sooner than it would on my table. I'm measuring 31.5" from the rear rail to the back of the front tube. I'm not sure but can you adjust the clip where it engages the rear rail?

[Michael Dunn]

Nope, the angle iron is totally flush with the table and the end of my guide tube sits about 3" away from the table, just like yours. My aluminum angle mods are totally flush with the face of the table. I basically just extended the tables edge downward about an 1 1/2".

I'll post pics soon.

shotgunn


Well since you had to modify the angle irons I'm guessing they are out a little farther out than a normal table. Based on that, the locking mechanism will engage sooner than it would on my table. I'm measuring 31.5" from the rear rail to the back of the front tube. I'm not sure but can you adjust the clip where it engages the rear rail?

[Michael Dunn]

Here are some pics of my fence... From what I can see, everything looks o.k.

Tell me what you see... I also included some pics of how I mounted it.

Front of table...

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt351/shotgunndunn/DCAM0001.jpg

Under table, first angle installed...

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt351/shotgunndunn/DCAM0002.jpg

I missed a few pics of some in between steps. Setting the height of the guide rail...

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt351/shotgunndunn/DCAM0003.jpg

Angle of my handle...

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt351/shotgunndunn/DCAM0005.jpg

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt351/shotgunndunn/DCAM0006.jpg

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt351/shotgunndunn/DCAM0007.jpg

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt351/shotgunndunn/DCAM0008.jpg

Any thoughts???

shotgunn

[Dan Friedrichs]

Michael,
What exactly is the problem? Does the fence not lock tight?

As I said earlier, there is no "click" or anything once you've pushed the handle down far enough - you're just supposed to push down until there's enough friction to keep the fence from moving.

If "straight up" is 0 degrees, my T2 fence handle maybe only goes down to 45 degrees before it's tight enough. It does not go "all the way down" or anything even remotely close. If the fence is lifting off the back when you push the handle down, you're pushing way too hard!

[Michael Dunn]

Yes, the fence locks tight. However, the handle does not push down like it is supposed to. I have never seen a TS fence that has the handle sticking out towards me. It is supposed to be pointing downward. Take a look in your manual, the pics show the handle pointing downward.

Look at the pics that another guy posted earlier in this thread. His handle goes down like it is supposed to.

I'm pretty tall, so it is totally possible for me to 'rack myself in the nuts' with the handle like it is. I would like to avoid that.

If you are thinking that your fence is 'o.k.' you may want to reconsider... It's not right, yours or mine. I don't mean to sound like a critical jerk, but something is not right here.

With straight up being 0 degrees, in the locked position the handle should be about 110 -120 degrees.

shotgunn


Michael,
What exactly is the problem? Does the fence not lock tight?

As I said earlier, there is no "click" or anything once you've pushed the handle down far enough - you're just supposed to push down until there's enough friction to keep the fence from moving.

If "straight up" is 0 degrees, my T2 fence handle maybe only goes down to 45 degrees before it's tight enough. It does not go "all the way down" or anything even remotely close. If the fence is lifting off the back when you push the handle down, you're pushing way too hard!

[Dan Friedrichs]

I dunno - I've seen several of these (at friends' houses, at stores, etc), and none of them go down farther than, at most, 90 degrees. Personally, I'd rather have to only move the handle a few degrees to lock it, rather than 120 degrees.

If it really bothers you, the only way to adjust it would be to unscrew the two hex screws that adjust the parallelism the same amount, so that the handle has more distance to travel before it's tight against the rail. There is absolutely nothing else you can do - as you can probably see, the fence locks against the rail independent of how you've mounted it, so there's nothing you could have done wrong installing it.

I don't think there's anything wrong with it at all- this is how it is supposed to work. I've never ran into my handle - why don't you try it for awhile and see if it's a problem?

[Michael Dunn]

Take a look at Justin Chens' pics above. My concern is also that the handle may be bumped and unlock. The amount of tension is fine. It's just that this amount of tension occurs too soon in the 'swing of the handle'.

I have already tried backing of the two hex screws. No luck, they were already pretty far out.

At the moment, I have no choice to try it for a while. I'll contact Delta, hopefully they can help out.

Thanx,

shotgunn


I dunno - I've seen several of these (at friends' houses, at stores, etc), and none of them go down farther than, at most, 90 degrees. Personally, I'd rather have to only move the handle a few degrees to lock it, rather than 120 degrees.

If it really bothers you, the only way to adjust it would be to unscrew the two hex screws that adjust the parallelism the same amount, so that the handle has more distance to travel before it's tight against the rail. There is absolutely nothing else you can do - as you can probably see, the fence locks against the rail independent of how you've mounted it, so there's nothing you could have done wrong installing it.

I don't think there's anything wrong with it at all- this is how it is supposed to work. I've never ran into my handle - why don't you try it for awhile and see if it's a problem?

[Dan Friedrichs]

I don't think you could bump and unlock it - the force to unlock has to be upwards, which would be hard to do unintentionally.

I think this is pretty common with the t-square style fences. For instance, attached are a few random pictures I grabbed from Google images.

[Michael Dunn]

This is what I am thinking of...




I don't think you could bump and unlock it - the force to unlock has to be upwards, which would be hard to do unintentionally.

I think this is pretty common with the t-square style fences. For instance, attached are a few random pictures I grabbed from Google images.

[Justin Chen]

I can't remember but can the back clip be moved at all? Have you tried setting the screws both ways? I think they need to be screwed out not in?

Basically, you want the fence to ride closer to the front of the saw than the back for the handle to go down farther (you need more space between the locking mechanism).

[Michael Dunn]

I have removed the back clip. The table top I have made is 36" deep.

You measured 2 1/2" inches from your table to the edge of the guide tube, correct?


I can't remember but can the back clip be moved at all? Have you tried setting the screws both ways? I think they need to be screwed out not in?

Basically, you want the fence to ride closer to the front of the saw than the back for the handle to go down farther (you need more space between the locking mechanism).

[Michael Dunn]

Any chance you can take off your handle and snap me a pic? I know the hole for the bolt is supposed to be slightly off center, I looks like mine may be in the wrong place.

This is the only viable option I can even think of.

I may just drill the hole out a bit. This would give me a bit more room between the clamp and the guide tube.


I can't remember but can the back clip be moved at all? Have you tried setting the screws both ways? I think they need to be screwed out not in?

Basically, you want the fence to ride closer to the front of the saw than the back for the handle to go down farther (you need more space between the locking mechanism).

[Homer Faucett]

I am sorry that I can't help with your setup issues, as it's been about 4 years since I had a T2 fence. I can say that mine did go past 90 degrees, and pointed a little downward when locked, but not much. I remember fiddling with it to get it all just where I wanted, but it's been too long ago for me at this point.

I will say that I think you'll really enjoy the fence. If I didn't have an Incra, I'd have a T2 or some other bies clone like this.

[Michael Dunn]

I tried putting a 5/16" - 18 tpi hex cap screw w/ a lock nut. This allowed me to get the handle down more. Naturally I tried a 1/4" - 20 tpi hex cap screw next, this was way too small. It clamped even further, but lacked the pressure necessary to lock the fence.

I may try leaving the 5/16" - 18 screw in and see how I like it. I'll probably try contacting Delta as well.

I'll keep you posted. Thanx for everything guys.

shotgunn

[Michael Dunn]

If anyone is interested in the finished product. Please see this link.

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1437790#poststop

Thanx,

shotgunn

[Jim Heffner]

Justin, from the pictures you posted that fence should be fully locked when
the handle is at approximately the 3 or 4 o'clock position. If it is in that position, see if the fence can be moved any from left to right or vice versa.
If the fence cannot be moved it is holding and will stay where you put it
when setting up for a rip cut.That fence DOES NOT have a positive click stop
when locked down....that is the way they are made.Hope this helps...at least a little anyway.........