What Crosscut Table Saw blade does everyone use?

[Tony Shea]

I am thinking about splurging on a decent crosscut-cut blade specifically for cutting plywoods and cross-cutting hardwood with my sleds and Incra miter gauge. I currently use Ridgid's gold crosscut blade but think this blade is a little more geared toward a miter saw. I was looking at Freud's LU85R010 Ultimate cross-cut blade and read great reveiws about a polished edge. The Ridgid seemed to get dull faster than I expected and is producing a little too much tearout for my taste. What is everyone around here using for a cross-cut blade in their table saw and how do you like it? Do you think the Freud is worth the $85 asking price?

[Ray Newman]

'Nevva' had a Freud blade, so I can't comment. I've been running Forrest blades for quite awhile now and find them excellent. I know a few woodworkers who are well-satisfied with Freud blades.

One thing to consider when buying is that while the initial cost may seem high, a quality blade has more than enough carbide on the teeth to ensure it can be sharpened multiple times. And usually, the carbide is of a better quality and sharpened with much finer grit diamond wheels.

You may already know this or do it, but for what it is worth:

Do you have a plyw'd, wood, or MDF "sweep" attached to the miter gauge? A sweep will reduce the tear out and if it extends passed the blade, it will sweep small cut off, etc., away from the blade. Also provides point to register the cut mark on the work. If you change the blade, rip and attach a piece of Masonite to the sweep to register the new/sharper blade’s kerf.

As for the sled, rip a piece of Masonite to the height of the fence and attach it with double stick tape. Run it through the blade to cut the kerf and you'll have a reference point to align the cut off mark on the work and reduce tear out.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I've been running Forrest blades for quite awhile now and find them excellent.


+1


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[Jim O'Dell]

Tony, you might start reading this thread by Scott Spencer: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=61724 I thought Scott had updated it again, but I'm not finding it. Hopefully he will pop in and give some updated info. But the basic knowledge in the thread is very useful. Jim.

[Lee Schierer]

I have the Freud LU73 which is essentially the same blade with out the teflon coating. It is an excellent blade and makes very smooth tearout free cuts. I also use a Freud LU82M and it is also a great blade. It cross cuts extremely smooth and will even rip nicely. It sells for about $40 at Rockler and others. Both blades cut well enough you almost don't need to sand the edges and rip cuts are ready for edge gluing. You won't be disappointed with the cut of a Freud blade.

[Michael Dunn]

I use all Freud blades (circ, miter, & table) I absolutely LOVE them!!! I haven't the Forrest II, but I hear it is 2nd to none.

I do not have the 'Ultimate Cutt-off' blade and still my ends are pretty polished. So I imagine that the Ultimate Cutt-Off would be even better.

I would say, "YES" it would be worth it, I too will buy that blade soon.

Thanx,

shotgunn


I am thinking about splurging on a decent crosscut-cut blade specifically for cutting plywoods and cross-cutting hardwood with my sleds and Incra miter gauge. I currently use Ridgid's gold crosscut blade but think this blade is a little more geared toward a miter saw. I was looking at Freud's LU85R010 Ultimate cross-cut blade and read great reveiws about a polished edge. The Ridgid seemed to get dull faster than I expected and is producing a little too much tearout for my taste. What is everyone around here using for a cross-cut blade in their table saw and how do you like it? Do you think the Freud is worth the $85 asking price?

[Van Huskey]

I use Forrest Industrial and Forrest almost exclusively, there are a couple of Tenryu in the shop as well.


For a pure crosscut the LU85 is hard to beat, the Forrest WWII 48T is pretty close but still has some combo tendencies. If I am doing a bunch of crosscuts and want the perfect then the LU85 is the blade I put on. But I must say you would be hard pressed to tell the difference between cuts with it and a P410 Fusion or the 40/48T WWII.

[Rod Sheridan]

http://www.fstoolcorp.com/Templates/ecms.aspx/$FSTool/fe24c020-6c58-4268-9c03-1679f71ad8fe/E2-E5_E14-E18_E39-E41.pdf

I use an FS Tools SO4300 blade, very good performance.........Rod.

[glenn bradley]

Do you think the Freud is worth the $85 asking price?

Depends on your thoughts on thin kerf blades. If you are running a 3HP and up saw I would run full kerf just for the extra number of sharpenings you may get. I have been using Freud, Lietz, Forrest, Amana and such. Rockler has a TK Freud model that I have a few of. It's about time for the first sharpening on the second newest (a couple years old).

I don't use my crosscut blades for non-cross cutting jobs which may prolong their sharpening interval. Using task specific blades does mean 2 or 3 blades (I think I have 8 or so) but, my blades in general seem to last much longer than I hear others discuss. I have 2 sharpenings on one of these that is about 4 years old. Rockler's clearance price isn't much more than sharpening so I bought another one awhile back. My WWII is used for rough cuts as my other 40T blades are. I run 24T to rip and 80T to crosscut.

Oh, they still have some: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22469&filter=Rockler%20Outlet and there may still be free shipping with code A0110 (maybe it was V0110). HTH.