Angled blade and zero clearance inserts

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I was reading the instructions for a zero-clearance insert for my Rigid TS 3660. It states:

<!-- @page { margin: 0.79in } P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } -->Do not attempt to tilt the arbor while the blade is in the insert! The blade will bind, causing severe damage and possible injury! For beveled cuts, a separate, dedicated insert must be prepared. Preset the angle and then proceed as instructed below.
Really? Honest? So, if I want a zero insert while my blade is at 45 degrees,


I set my blade at 45 degrees.
Lower the blade under the table (while at 45 degrees).
Install the zero-clearance insert.
Start the saw.
Raise the blade.

[Jim O'Dell]

Yep. Sounds weird, but the trunnion raises directly inline of the saw blade. The tilted assembly doesn't raise straight up causing the blade to go sideways into the insert. The reason you don't want to tilt it in an already cut ZCI is that it will bind on the sides of the blade. If you have one of the factory inserts that has a wider slot then it has room to tilt without binding. Go tilt your blade and then raise and lower it. You'll see what I mean. I had to do it on my saw to be a believer!! ;) Jim.

[Michael Heffernan]

Yup, that's pretty much it.
I have a slew of shopmade ZCIs for different angles, thin kerf and regular kerf blades, various stacked dado thicknesses. It really helps with tearout. I retired my stock 'cuts all' insert when I got my saw. I only use it as a template for making new ZCIs.
I cut mine from 1/2" phenolic sheets, but you can use good quality multi-ply or scraps of hardwood. Just make sure they are flat.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Very nice.... Thanks.. I need to wander out to my saw and take a look....

I have some nice maple that will likely make some good inserts. Initially, however, I will use some Leecraft inserts....

[Keith Westfall]

1/2 inch baltic birch. Works good.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

1/2 inch baltic birch. Works good.
Had not occurred to me... Do you use any particular router bit to form the small lip? If you don't know off hand, that should be easy for me to find.

[Steve Griffin]

I used to make my own inserts.

Don't bother anymore--$20 or so gets you perfect nice factory made ones complete with adjusting screws.

But my main reason for buying them, rather making out of wood, is the bright orange or red color. Might sound silly, but I think there is a small safety advantage to the blade zone not blending in with the rest of the saw.

-Steve

[Keith Westfall]

Had not occurred to me... Do you use any particular router bit to form the small lip? If you don't know off hand, that should be easy for me to find.

On my Rigid, 1/2 inch fit perfectly - no lip or edge required.