Thinking about buying a bandsaw...

[Brendan Plavis]

Well, since I am having grave troubles with my projects(table saw that doesnt cut true/straight and having to constantly borrow tools) I have been pondering purchasing a bandsaw.

The issue is, if I am going to be spending $300+ I want to make sure that I am spending it on something decent.

I have been thinking, and I think a 14inch may serve its purpose(9+10 seem too small, I would rather buy once than buy twice) with some to spare.

I have found a 1hp Porter Cable on the lowes site for $400 less a 10% coupon. I have also found 3/4hp Grizzly for $469 in the door. Are grizzly's that much better.

Then after that I would need to buy a fence and resaw fence, as well as perhaps a decent set of push sticks/blocks(are these nessecary, or are Bandsaws *relatively* safe(yea, I know they can take off a finger, but not as fast as a tablesaw I imagine).

So yea.. its not going to be cheap... but, for a beginner who seems to have had every project thus far requesting a bandsaw(I have to cut Lexan, resaw a piece of 2x4, make a straight edge for my keyboard tray that is jointable(darn tablesaw left it bowed..) et cetera) would it be worth it...

Or should I look for a cheap Harbour Freight BS..?

-Brendan

[Peter Quinn]

Porter cable has a bandsaw now? When the bleep did this happen? Used to be Delta made machines, Porter cable was power tools, the world was in balance. Now they are marketing Porter cable bandsaws at Lowes? I'm confused. Are they getting ready to dump Delta? Have the folks at B&D's marketing unit started huffing airplane glue since Stanley took over? Frankly if it says porter cable and it doesn't fit in a knack box I don't want it.

Oh, I have neither used nor seen either of those saws and have no information or comment, other than the PC bandsaw thing has caught me off guard. And the question "Is Grizzly really that much better" has me LOL, because the traditional question used to be "Is Grizzly really that much worse than X?" Looks like things have come full circle, or perhaps we have entered the twilight zone?

If the next post asks "Is grizzly really that much better than minimax.....?" I'll know we have entered an alternate universe.

[Tom Rick]

If it was me (and it was about 15 years ago..), I would buy one of the old Rockwell/Delta 14" saws.
I have one of the old 'school' saws in the metal/wood combo. It is a pleasure to use and has served me well on countless jobs.
I paid $400 for it and would put it over anything you are going to get at Lowes these days.

[Rick Markham]

The only reason a band saw is considered "safer" than a table saw is because the direction of the blade movement is vertical, and not towards the user, therefore you cannot have a "kickback" like on a table saw.

A moment of inattention on a band saw is just as dangerous if not more so. Work in a meat packing plant and watch a cow femur bone jump in a band saw, instead of losing a finger, it can be a hand or an arm. Boards have been known to bind and jump surprising the operator and causing an accident.

A band saw can "eat your lunch" just as fast as a table saw, and the damage can be just as bad if not worse to your body. (on my band saw, the possibility of 11 feet of blade contacting ANY part of your body is no joke and is a very REAL danger) All tools no matter their size require the same amount of respect, some require different operator safety practices, but that is all!

I love your enthusiam for this hobby Brendan! It's good to see a young person taking an extreme interest in an art form such as woodworking. Have you considered working with hand tools, I know it is a whole lot more elbow grease, but it is exceptionally rewarding! Power tools have an amazing allure, but sometimes, it is in your best interests to learn the classic techniques before applying modern methods. You can stretch your budget and get a variety of great handtools, (saws/ planes/ chisels) build your abilities/ confidence, have tools that, if you take care of, will last your lifetime (plus several others.) You will only be limited in your abilities and your imagination. In the end everything you have learned can be applied to the powered tools! Just a thought ;)

[Adam Strong]

I am trying to understand why exactly you need a bandsaw... It is a great tool to have in the shop and I am not by any means saying you don't need one. If you are having trouble with your table saw, I think that needs addressed as well. A bandsaw requires proper set-up just as a table saw does. As for the bandsaws mentioned, the Grizzly is far better than the PC model. Both the TS and BS are safe when using the right techniques and giving your full attention. One is not any safer than the other, and both are near deadly when in the hands of a distracted user. All power equipment deserves a certain level of respect from the user, if you let your guard down, it will bite you. I suggest ironing out the issues with the table saw first and then looking to a bandsaw.

[Dan Karachio]

That Porter Cable bandsaw is the more recent Delta rebranded for the merging of those two companies. Do not buy it. You can do far better. I would consider the Rigid 14" over this one for sure, but with Grizzly you would do even better. Used saws are out there, but I think you really need to be experienced with a bandsaw before you buy used. While Harbor Freight is useful for some things, like cheap clamps, I would never ever buy their band saw.

[Brendan Plavis]

The thing is, the tablesaw is not mine: its my grandfathers, and he is just currently storing it at our house. I personally hate using it(used it once... it was scary since there is no guard, and that the mitre guage runs within 2inch of the side of the blade....)

I need to be able to resaw some planks for a school project, and It wouldnt hurt to be able to cut boards straight...

And when i said safe, I realize that each can take a chunk out of you, hell, when I was five I put a pencil through my thumb.. Nothing is safe... But Bandsaws have the advantage of not kicking the material back at you(was just talking to someone who was cutting a piece of lumber(for a floor) and the blade caught something... he was singing Soprano for the next few hours....)

I would take the time to learn handtools, as they are cheaper, but I have a project due Friday that hasnt even gotten off the drawing board... As I currently have nothing that can cut resaws(hence the need for a bandsaw)


So my question is.... should I go with:

A cheaper Skil 9" which is $120
A Craftsman 9" which is $116 (Ill be looking for the snipers out side my window after asking this question.. :) )
A PC 14" for $400


Now obviously a 9" is the cheapest, but I hear awful things regarding them. Not to mention I dont really have something to mount one to...

Are there any cheaper ones that are recommended. I am looking for the largest one, under $400, preferably cheaper. I also would perfer a floor model, although a bench top can be swung..... As I mentioned, I would be doing some resawing....

Thanks

[Jesse Wilson]

I just bout the G0555 through Grizzly's Ebay page and ma loving every minute of it. It is most decidedly worth the $60 over the PC from Lowes. I followed CL for quite some time before I made the purchase and although Phoenix is the 5th biggest city in the country apparently nobody has a decent bandsaw to sell (for a realistic price that is). So finally I said screw it and went for the new one from Grizzly.

I will say that if you want a drill press the PC (basically a rebadged Delta) for $217 OTD is an amazing deal. Gives me something good quality and really cheap to mess around with until Grizzly comes out with their amazing new WW DP. ;) At $217 it was very close to the HF DP which I didn't care for too much.

I'd rather spend reasonable money for a quality tool that could possibly last me forever vs being struck with upgraditus when my 9" can't do what I need it to.

Been there, done that.

If you can afford it get the Grizzly or being more patient then me and follow CL very closely.


Jesse

[Myk Rian]

As was mentioned in an earlier post, keep an eye on craigslist for a good, used Delta 14".

[Mike Cutler]

Brendan

Place an ad in the classifieds, here on the board, with your location and that you are looking for a bandsaw.
None of the bandsaws that you are referenceing are going to meet your needs in the near, or long term. They may meet the immediate need, but you will rapidly outgrow them.
For $400.00 you should be able to get a nice used 14" bandsaw, maybe even larger. I've seen 30"+ working bandsaws being sold for their scrap weight worth.

[Brendan Plavis]

Brendan

Place an ad in the classifieds, here on the board, with your location and that you are looking for a bandsaw.
None of the bandsaws that you are referenceing are going to meet your needs in the near, or long term. They may meet the immediate need, but you will rapidly outgrow them.
For $400.00 you should be able to get a nice used 14" bandsaw, maybe even larger. I've seen 30"+ working bandsaws being sold for their scrap weight worth.

I think tommorrow I may swing by the local store tommorrow, see if thay have anything decent. I cannot post... it says that I dont have the privileges(aka I dont contribute...)

I dont quite understand, what is so bad about the PC saw...? It has a 1.5hp motor(delta only has .75hp) its basicly a renamed Delta...

[Van Huskey]

I dont quite understand, what is so bad about the PC saw...? It has a 1.5hp motor(delta only has .75hp) its basicly a renamed Delta...

These saws are "clones" of the pre WWII Delta 14" bandsaw. The design has changed very little in all that time and it is an excellent basic design and can be an excellent saw within its lmitations. However, all the saws that look the same are not the same. Though some will argue different there is a food chain and the ones at the bottom tend to be more poorly assembled and the components are speced lower (or get the components that do not meet the specs of the more expensive saw's manufacturers). If they were all the same everyone that wants a 14" cast saw would just get the Central Machinery version and be done with it. What I have found is every one of them from the HF CM saw, that can be had for under $250, to the PM which is about $1000 is they can all be excellent saws. The key is to get the HF and other bargain saws to function well you need more experience and skill to set it up properly. Woodworking machines RARELY ever work correctly "out of the box" they must be set-up and tuned up.

In the end it is Saturday you need boards resawn for a project by the end of the week. Even after having setup dozens of BS and resawing for years I don't know if I would feel comfortable getting a new out of the box saw and having it ready to resaw well in a couple of days.

BTW what size and type of wood do you need to resaw and how wide do you need the pieces ie veneer or just bookmatching the board?

[Mike Cutler]

I dont quite understand, what is so bad about the PC saw...? It has a 1.5hp motor(delta only has .75hp) its basicly a renamed Delta...

Brendan
I don't think that it is a "bad" band saw per se. In fact it could be a nice band saw. What I would be suspect of, is it's long term reliability, and parts availability.
What you are experiencing here is folks viewpoints, including mine, personal bias concerning PC.
PC at one time was pretty much the standard for routers, and sanders and other smaller hand held power tools. A few years back though, things began to change, and the quality level that we were used to obtaining with the PC brand was degrading. The cost was still high, but the product had been cheapened to maintain, or increase, the profit margin per unit. PC began to be referred to a junky, and most big box stores were blowing the inventory off the shelves and dropping the line.
So now, I see a larger piece of equipment with the PC logo on it, so I kind of wonder about it. That however is my personal bias, emphasis on personal. My other personal bias is that most 14" band saws are too small for resawing. They will do it, but a larger more powerful band saw will do it easier, and faster. (I have a 14" Jet and an 18" Rikon.)
If you've inspected the machine and it looks good to you, go for it. Being that you're buying it from a big box store, the return policy is pretty liberal, so if it's kind of "junky" you can take it back and get refunded.

[Van Huskey]

Also regarding the HP of the PC the PC site does not list HP but the Lowes site calls it 1.5hp, the current draw is 10/5 amps 120/240v that indicates to me it is probably a true 3/4 or 1hp motor not 1.5.

One nice thing it does have is a table that is a little larger than average.

[Alan Bienlein]

Why buy one when you can build one like this guy did.http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/

[Rick Markham]

Alan, that video of that guy's band saw is pretty interesting. It sure takes a whole lot of ingenuity to have done that. I should have just built mine instead of spending all that money on a Laguna :rolleyes: LOL

[Brendan Plavis]

That homemade saw looks like a freakin deathtrap(ie the uncovered wheels while the blade is turning..... screams dismemberment.....

Alright thanks... guys...

The only other concern I have, is, are these things screamers(*EDIT* sounds like I am refering to... how to put this...ahh..you can figure it out), or are they relatively quiet? I use a CMS alot, and if I run it for more than a 30 sec or so, it begins to get painful(110DBs will do that to you.) I imagine with a BS, that its not a quick flick on, flick off... Not to mention I generally have the family above me(Raised Ranch) so, I doubt they would enjoy the loud noise until 9PM at night(weekends/when ever the grandparents arent here.) As it is, CMS keeps everyone up....

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Brendan, a band saw is FAR less noisy than a mitre saw.

That said, it is wise to wear hearing protection (either ear-muffs or ear plugs) whenever you are using machinery.

A band saw is very handy for cutting curves, splitting boards in half (re-sawing), making thin slices (veneer), however it takes a good machine and exacting setup to be accurate.

A table saw is often a better choice for the predominantly straight cuts the furniture making entails.

Regards, Rod.

[Dave MacArthur]

Brendan,
I've read several of your threads, in fact went back and searched for them, so feel I understand where you're coming from, and I honestly think you are maybe going about this whole thing wrong. You're letting a week-away school project drive your decisions... that is just silly. Even the professionals on here don't let a $300 project drive a band saw decision... maybe a $1000 project.

Here's some thoughts for you:
1. You've asked in several posts about buying this or that (jointer, hand planes, bandsaw) and always the background reason is the same: you don't have access to a table saw you trust, you're scared of the table saw, and it doesn't cut "true".
--I REALLY think your first and most important post should be this, "My table saw is XXX brand, how can I make it cut straight?". Your next thoughts might be on how to use a table saw safely, etc.
-- You keep saying it doesn't cut "true"... I really don't know what this means. You can mount a circular saw under a sheet of plywood and clamp a strip of plywood down as a fence and get a "true" cut. I cut up sheets of plywood all the time with a clamped down board and circular saw and seldom have to true up on the table saw. What EXACTLY is the table saw problem? Is your fence wobbly? Is the measurement for setting the fence inaccurate? Is the blade bent? All these things are solvable.

2. You, like most of us, want to solve our woodworking problems by buying a piece of better equipment. That isn't the real answer, at least not until a good grounding of basic skills is acquired. Now, no offense at all intended because we all started somewhere and learned woodworking sometime... but several of the questions you've asked make me believe you'd be better served by some instruction or study than by purchasing a new piece of equipment. And, commendably, here you are quite often, searching for exactly that info--GOOD ON YA! But please realize that things read on the internet are good "knowledge", but not actual skills owned until you TRY THEM and really learn it for yourself.
-- Let me take this band saw thing for example, you mentioned it this week first when you needed to joint an edge of two boards to make a computer keyboard tray. And as folks pointed out, a band saw is the absolute last piece of equip that comes to mind for this. This makes me think that you're long on enthusiasm, but short on hand-learning via actual projects. Which is OK and great, but a DANGEROUS TIME to be making decisions on tool purchases when you're under-funded!!
3. MONEY-- I can tell you are very concerned about the costs for both the equip and the materials. Please don't fool yourself that buying bigger now is your magic answer. I honestly think, after reading most of your posts (I was you once ;) ) that you'd be best served with MINIMUM COST OUTLAY for some basic hand tools and a working table saw.. or eureka-zone style circular saw setup. You have projects that don't demand perfection or perfect materials, you're using reclaimed or found wood, you're budget limited, and you're looking to learn... THAT sounds exactly like our craftsmen forefathers, and a perfect recipe for a hand plane to me! I really think you'd learn some good basics most economically that way. Honestly, I've got a whole 3 car garage shop with PM66 and a ton of stuff... but probably my best project ever was a guitar I built while in high school and college, and I did almost the whole thing with hand-tools: rasps, a cheap craftsman contractor saw, and a 9" band saw my dad got for $50. And I learned more about wood rasping and scraping and hand-planing that guitar than I've ever learned since.

Don't short yourself on your own training/enjoyment, and be cautious about throwing your money down on things you may not need.

Good luck, I always like reading your posts, and hope you don't take my reply except as intended: a guy seeing myself in the past and wishing someone had helped me save my $ when possible ;)

[Adam Strong]

Brendan,
I've read several of your threads, in fact went back and searched for them, so feel I understand where you're coming from, and I honestly think you are maybe going about this whole thing wrong. You're letting a week-away school project drive your decisions... that is just silly. Even the professionals on here don't let a $300 project drive a band saw decision... maybe a $1000 project.

Here's some thoughts for you:
1. You've asked in several posts about buying this or that (jointer, hand planes, bandsaw) and always the background reason is the same: you don't have access to a table saw you trust, you're scared of the table saw, and it doesn't cut "true".
--I REALLY think your first and most important post should be this, "My table saw is XXX brand, how can I make it cut straight?". Your next thoughts might be on how to use a table saw safely, etc.
-- You keep saying it doesn't cut "true"... I really don't know what this means. You can mount a circular saw under a sheet of plywood and clamp a strip of plywood down as a fence and get a "true" cut. I cut up sheets of plywood all the time with a clamped down board and circular saw and seldom have to true up on the table saw. What EXACTLY is the table saw problem? Is your fence wobbly? Is the measurement for setting the fence inaccurate? Is the blade bent? All these things are solvable.

2. You, like most of us, want to solve our woodworking problems by buying a piece of better equipment. That isn't the real answer, at least not until a good grounding of basic skills is acquired. Now, no offense at all intended because we all started somewhere and learned woodworking sometime... but several of the questions you've asked make me believe you'd be better served by some instruction or study than by purchasing a new piece of equipment. And, commendably, here you are quite often, searching for exactly that info--GOOD ON YA! But please realize that things read on the internet are good "knowledge", but not actual skills owned until you TRY THEM and really learn it for yourself.
-- Let me take this band saw thing for example, you mentioned it this week first when you needed to joint an edge of two boards to make a computer keyboard tray. And as folks pointed out, a band saw is the absolute last piece of equip that comes to mind for this. This makes me think that you're long on enthusiasm, but short on hand-learning via actual projects. Which is OK and great, but a DANGEROUS TIME to be making decisions on tool purchases when you're under-funded!!
3. MONEY-- I can tell you are very concerned about the costs for both the equip and the materials. Please don't fool yourself that buying bigger now is your magic answer. I honestly think, after reading most of your posts (I was you once ;) ) that you'd be best served with MINIMUM COST OUTLAY for some basic hand tools and a working table saw.. or eureka-zone style circular saw setup. You have projects that don't demand perfection or perfect materials, you're using reclaimed or found wood, you're budget limited, and you're looking to learn... THAT sounds exactly like our craftsmen forefathers, and a perfect recipe for a hand plane to me! I really think you'd learn some good basics most economically that way. Honestly, I've got a whole 3 car garage shop with PM66 and a ton of stuff... but probably my best project ever was a guitar I built while in high school and college, and I did almost the whole thing with hand-tools: rasps, a cheap craftsman contractor saw, and a 9" band saw my dad got for $50. And I learned more about wood rasping and scraping and hand-planing that guitar than I've ever learned since.

Don't short yourself on your own training/enjoyment, and be cautious about throwing your money down on things you may not need.

Good luck, I always like reading your posts, and hope you don't take my reply except as intended: a guy seeing myself in the past and wishing someone had helped me save my $ when possible ;)


+1
My thoughts exactly.... Posted in your other thread about jointing.

[Tom Rick]

Agree as well. Many years of my early woodworking was spent building small projects with hand tools then 5 years or so doing bench work as a classical strings repair guy w/violins, cellos and the like.

When I started to find I had no way to efficiently remove all that extra wood from around my project, I started to buy power tools.
So yes- bench work with hand tools and projects from dimensioned lumber and reclaimed boards is a fine way to start and may be the way a person spends their entire woodworking career.
That said I now have a professional shop worked full time and don't hesitate to buy any tool needed for the job at hand. When I started though, a silly thing like not having tools was not going to stop me from working wood and producing some very nice early projects.

On table saws- if you are afraid of it don't use it again till you understand more of what the risks are in its use. It can be compared with driving a car. While being a very dangerous activity which is full of real risk, few fear driving. They understand instead what it means to drive car safely and have a sense of when risk is higher or lower based on a combination of experience and knowledge of what makes the activity risky.

If I had to split a couple of boards away from the shop I would grab a circular saw. Maybe a neighbor has a circular saw and would lay your boards on some saw horses and show you how to use the tool to cut a fine line?

[Brendan Plavis]

Agree as well. Many years of my early woodworking was spent building small projects with hand tools then 5 years or so doing bench work as a classical strings repair guy w/violins, cellos and the like.

When I started to find I had no way to efficiently remove all that extra wood from around my project, I started to buy power tools.
So yes- bench work with hand tools and projects from dimensioned lumber and reclaimed boards is a fine way to start and may be the way a person spends their entire woodworking career.
That said I now have a professional shop worked full time and don't hesitate to buy any tool needed for the job at hand. When I started though, a silly thing like not having tools was not going to stop me from working wood and producing some very nice early projects.

On table saws- if you are afraid of it don't use it again till you understand more of what the risks are in its use. It can be compared with driving a car. While being a very dangerous activity which is full of real risk, few fear driving. They understand instead what it means to drive car safely and have a sense of when risk is higher or lower based on a combination of experience and knowledge of what makes the activity risky.

If I had to split a couple of boards away from the shop I would grab a circular saw. Maybe a neighbor has a circular saw and would lay your boards on some saw horses and show you how to use the tool to cut a fine line?

One thing I dont understand, is how can I split boards(resaw) on a circular saw/tablesaw?

The table saw is Craftsman...hense the %$#@ quality.... My hunch is that its due to a less than tight Arbor nut, that is permitting blade wobble... But... My grandfather would kill me if I took an indepth look(remove the table to access the blade rotation assembly..)

My reason for a bandsaw thought now has progressed, as I mentioned. Once my grandfather takes his tools back, there goes my woodworking hobby, since all Ill have is a stinkin jigsaw that I cannot get to square the base, as well as a couple drills. I figure that if I can get a decent sized BS, then, I will have something to atleast do some work on. After the summer I may then look into a Jointer/Planer.


*EDIT*

Well, its been finalized, I am going to get a BS, since I need it to do the projects. I cleared it with the family, and they permit. Now my question is, What one should I get. It needs to be $400 or under, it needs to be available at a store such as Home depot,lowes, etc. And needs to be available within Rhode Island, perferably Northern RI...

Thankyou

[Kevin Groenke]

Brendan, please do not try this yourself, but...

With a 10" tablesaw (even a Craftsman!) an experienced woodworker with much practice, well tuned equipment and a sharp blade appropriate to the task can resaw stock up to 6" tall (the capacity of the bandsaws you're looking at). This is accomplished by running the stock on edge against the rip-fence. First, make a cut 3" deep, then flip the stock end-to-end and make another cut 3" deep. Some people leave ~1/16" of stock between the cuts so that they don't have to worry about an off-cut. The two pieces are easily parted with a chisel or similar tool, a quick swipe with a plane takes care of the ridge.

This technique may yield superior results to a bandsaw that is under-powered, badly-tuned or has a dull or inappropriate blade. I doubt that any sub-$400 bandsaw will be able to re-saw 6" very well out-of-the-box: some tuning and/or investment in a blade designed for re-sawing will probably be required.

The Porter-Cable 14" bandsaw looks like a good value, but I was unable to find any detailed user reviews of it. If you get one, please let us know how it works for you.

Good luck and please be careful out there.
-kg

[Brendan Plavis]

Brendan, please do not try this yourself, but...

With a 10" tablesaw (even a Craftsman!) an experienced woodworker with much practice, well tuned equipment and a sharp blade appropriate to the task can resaw stock up to 6" tall (the capacity of the bandsaws you're looking at). This is accomplished by running the stock on edge against the rip-fence. First, make a cut 3" deep, then flip the stock end-to-end and make another cut 3" deep. Some people leave ~1/16" of stock between the cuts so that they don't have to worry about an off-cut. The two pieces are easily parted with a chisel or similar tool, a quick swipe with a plane takes care of the ridge.

This technique may yield superior results to a bandsaw that is under-powered, badly-tuned or has a dull or inappropriate blade. I doubt that any sub-$400 bandsaw will be able to re-saw 6" very well out-of-the-box: some tuning and/or investment in a blade designed for re-sawing will probably be required.

The Porter-Cable 14" bandsaw looks like a good value, but I was unable to find any detailed user reviews of it. If you get one, please let us know how it works for you.

Good luck and please be careful out there.
-kg

Well, like I said, I am going to have a looksee at the local shop, but then may swing over to Lowes, and get that. It looks like the best value: I think as someone else mentioned, would rather spend $400(less if my 10% coupon arrives tonight...) than $120 and get Upgradisidis when I am struck with something that cannot accept a riser block/is drasticly underpowered(ie: 9in)..

And thanks for the concern. Believe me, I have no intentions of doing risky operations... my Grandfather was trying to resaw it on the tablesaw, I told him to back off(the saw was literally stopping the blade) he refused.... Continued.... I told him the rate we are going, my next project will have to be a casket... I am the one with the sense to say... forget it... I have a $1400 rainy day fund... time to tap it....

-Brendan

[Brendan Plavis]

I came across this *rasp* Craftsman model:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00922400000P?vName=Tools&cName=Bench+%26amp%3B+Stationary+Power+Tools&sName=Band+Saws

Its Resaw capacity is an inch greater. But is is only a 12inch. The downside is, its a steel framed saw..(no riser block?) But then again, I am not aware that the PC one has a Riser Block. Its $40 less.. Should I just go with the PC?



Also, I noted that the voltages are all different, for example, the Porter Cable is 115volt, where as the Craftsman is 120volt.. Is this just a screw up? I thought the standard outlets were 120v 220v 240V(EU)

[Van Huskey]

Between the two the PC "Delta clone" no question.

Without being long winded 110V, 115V and 120V in relation to household outlets are all the same thing. 120V is actually the "correct" voltage of a US household receptacle but you see penty of people/companies use 110V, less use 115V.

[Rick Markham]

Check the classifieds here Brendan, there is a fellow selling a New in the box Ridgid 14" bandsaw for 269 and change. It would save you some money that you could spend on some blades and upgrades. Good luck, I hope ya get one you will enjoy and learn a whole lot from!

[Brendan Plavis]

Check the classifieds here Brendan, there is a fellow selling a New in the box Ridgid 14" bandsaw for 269 and change. It would save you some money that you could spend on some blades and upgrades. Good luck, I hope ya get one you will enjoy and learn a whole lot from!

Not only would I end up spending the 131 in gas... its a rigid... I hear they have the shakes...and its not because you left the liquor cabinet unlocked... Not to mention its open stand and comes with a crap blade(I hear the PC blade is half decent.)

For the same price pretty much, I think Ill get the one Ill be most satisfied with... (unless the rigid has some amazing sale today.)

[Matt Meiser]

Should be shippable in that box and based on the posts in that thread I'd guess the price is at least somewhat negotiable. No matter what saw you buy you are going to be buying blades. Any blade in the box shouldn't even figure into your decision. As a general rule Ridgid vs. recent model Delta/PC sold at Lowes at best is a toss-up as to quality.

The best advise you've gotten in this thread is to watch Craigslist for an older saw. Delta/Rockwell bandsaws are plentiful, though you may have to be patient to find one. I paid $250 for my Rockwell in like-new condition other than some slight surface rust on the the table. You could then put the other $150 towards a start on accessorizing it.

Honestly you'd be much better off putting the $400 towards classes at your local Woodcraft which currently lists a number of "101" classes for $30-40. Your posts make it clear that you don't even know what you don't know, if you will. These classes would give you an introduction to a number of techniques, give you an opportunity to try out some real tools, give you a lot better idea where to start and probably give your family some confidence in you. http://www.woodcraft.com/stores/store.aspx?id=535

[Ray Newman]

"...you don't even know what you don't know...."
--Matt Meiser

Matt: now that's good! 'Gonna' remember that one.

[Matt Meiser]

"...you don't even know what you don't know...."
--Matt Meiser

Matt: now that's good! 'Gonna' remember that one.

I can't take credit for it--I've heard it said before. I've been in the situation myself plenty of times. When it happens, getting a friend or coworker to show me the basics or taking a basic class or attending a seminar at least gave me a clue where to start.

[Frank Warta]

Sorry off topic...

Where I work we have an unofficial categorization based on this idea.

Entry Level (Jr. Developer) - Someone who doesn't know, what they don't know.

Mid Level (Contributing Developer) - Knows what they don't know, knows what/who/how to ask.

Senior Level (Expert Developer) - Knows what they need to know, or more often knows enough to find the answer almost instantly.

One of the fun parts of interviewing is finding creative ways to figure out where to put people in these categories. Experience matters a lot, but it always amazes me when you have someone with 10+ years experience who will try to fake their way through a basic question. It just makes them look incompetent, honesty is often a much more appealing trait. I can work well with someone who asks good questions and is teachable, trying to deal with someone who will never admit they don't know something is very frustrating.

[Brendan Plavis]

Well, I couldnt get a saw today... all Lowes had was a crappy skil(plasticy junk) and a Delta... Which I was going to get, until the lady said they had no more, and werent getting any more.... although they still had it priced for sale... :confused:

Not to mention I had no support from my father, who thought woodworking is a waste of money... There were two prices... $119 for aluminum and plastic that I said wouldnt last the year... and $350... I told him Deltas are known for lasting 20+ years...(this was before we found out that there were none left in stock.) So, When we got home... I told him, forget it, I cannot do the school project I was getting it for... He wanted me to go to his friend's house, while the guy is nice, he can make you feel uncomfortable...

Not to mention, he got stuborn, because my grandfather kept telling him a tool was a waste of money... He obviously has no experience, which can be seen since he wanted me to get the plastic and aluminum junk... My grandfather thinks cardboard will work for a *WOODWORKING* project I am doing...(was going to also use the saw to work on my desk...) He apparently doesnt understand that when dropped from approximately 40ft, 1/8ths inch wood shatters appart. Cardboard does nothing...(its an egg recovery vehicle so I am wanting it to shatter as to eliminate a vast transferance of energy.)

So now we shall see how long before he becomes supportive of my wish to purchase equipment for my little shop. He doesnt mind me spending $500 on parts for my computer, but $400 for a tool that can outlive most computers, thats unacceptable....

Went for forced alergy testing by my POS father....turns out I am allergic to family... ah chooo...

[Nathan Callender]

http://www.google.com/search?q=thinking+about+buying+a+bandsaw

You do know this is a public forum, right? These pages stay searchable for quite a while.

[Brendan Plavis]

Well Aware

[Nathan Callender]

Then I would ask for the mods to step in here. This forum should not tolerate that type of disrespect.

[Brendan Plavis]

Step in on what grounds? One has the right to voice their oppinion. I have voiced mine countless times, so clearly the mods have seen, so, stop attempting to stir up trouble, would ya? Thanks.

[Adam Strong]

Then I would ask for the mods to step in here. This forum should not tolerate that type of disrespect.

I do agree, but I remember my attitude toward adults at times when I was a kid so I can't say much. The jury is evidently out on whether or not it belongs on SMC.

Brendan,
I must say that you are going to lose the respect (and help) of the SMC community always knocking your folks. Without them, you'd have no roof over your head to say the least. As for your father's opinions on the bandsaw... If he is not into woodworking, he would not know much difference between a good saw and a bad one. Your parents are probably not too crazy about the idea of you using power tools by yourself either (I know mine weren't). Whether you like it or not, by age alone, you are still a kid, and your parents are responsible for your well being. Building a mutual respect and trust is where you will find the leash loosening up a bit. Your grandfather sounds like a tinkerer and not so much a woodworker... His intentions are good, so at least respect that, even though his skill may lack.

I personally am losing interest in trying to offer advice to you... You always seem to think you know the answers to the questions you ask and only frustrate those trying to help by offering an experienced view beyond what you think you know. Everyone at SMC is here because we enjoy woodworking and the community here. There is more knowledge in the pages of this forum than any one member could offer on their own. I wish I had resources like this when I started, I could have avoided a lot of mistakes. I am always glad to see young people interested in woodworking and wish you the best.

[Brendan Plavis]

Does anyone know the cost of the Ridged at a HomeDepot store? I was going to look today, but got a flat tire(the hissing sound when I got out of the car sounded firmiliar.... :( ) I could only find the online price of $417(it says shipping included, hence why I figure the prices are different).

Any Reviews on this saw? I hear it vibrates but then I also read from some its got no issues... Any views from fellow creekers...? Can it truely accept upto a .75 band? Its the base steel or Cast Iron(site reads cast people say steel?) Ease of use? Is it as good as other saws in the same price range? Does the singe speed matter over multiple speeds, I plan to cut wood+ lexan/plexi.

Rating? They give it a 3.7/5 where the dual speed PC/Delta clone is a 3.3/5

I appreciate the assistance. As, I am dumb to this much information... it makes my head hurt...

[Adam Strong]

Brendan,
I own the Ridgid bandsaw... Out of the box it needs a bit of tuning (really not worse than others in the same price range). As for the price new, I think it is at the $399 mark. Once tuned it is a great saw at a good price in the end. I got mine off of CL for $150 and have put about $300 into making it great. The stand is made of steel and bolts together (loctite is a must). The saw frame is cast iron and great quality, clean casting. It accepts all the typical upgrades Grizzly riser, Kreg fence, Cobra spring, Cater guides, etc. As for tuning out of the box aside from the typical bandsaw setup... Balance the wheels, add a link belt, and add a shelf in the open frame to help firm things up. With urethane tires it will certainly track a 3/4" blade so long as the wheels are coplanar and it is tensioned correctly. I am a fan of the Ridgid saw, but buying a used one gives you a far better deal to make up for the tuning it requires.
As for ratings... I give mine a 5/5 - $450 and I have a great set-up I just had to dial things in a bit. Out of the box a 3.7/5 is fair - at $400 most people (unrealistically) expect a tuned tool out of the box. Honestly, in this price range, every saw has issues.

Here are a few pics of my saw... the blade installed is a 1/2"

[Prashun Patel]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=138302