Vice installation question

[Mike Brady]

I am installing a quick-release type vise as an end vise on my new bench. I want to inlet the rear jaw flush with the end grain of the 3" ash top. Since the top of the jay falls about one-half inch below the bench top, I need in cut a relief very mucj like a large hing gain into the bench end. I have considered several methods: make a pattern jig for a power router; hand chisel it; make a wide base for a router plane and hog it out.

I'm leaning toward the router plane, but I'm thinking it could go slow because I would be cutting through all end grain. By the way, I don't have a butt mortice plane, which would be another option. All of the above methods are complicated by the position of the work piece, which is a vertical surface 34" above the floor (the end of the bench top).

A friend suggested roughing it out with a Forstner bit in a hand drill, keeping the bores shallow, and then finishing with the router plane.

Any other ideas or recommendation from the above?

[David Cockey]

Bore a series of holes about 1/16" shallower than the final depth with an auger and brace. Start with fairly large diameter auger, then use a smaller diameter auger for holes in between the large ones. Knock out the wood between the holes with a chisel and mallet. Define the edges with a chisel. Finish the bottom to the desired depth with a router plane.

[John Schreiber]

Turn it upside down on saw horses and any of those options will work. Trying to do it upside down sounds like a nightmare.

A trick I learned for installing the vise when the bench is upright: Clamp a 2x4 in it so that it has a leg of its own to stand on.

[Eric Brown]

You could just go ahead and bolt the vice to the end and then make a jaw cover the width of the bench. If it gets worn you could then change it.
Just a thought.

Eric

[john davey]

I am about to install a vise myself and can't flip the bench do to it's size. This little tip really makes sense. I would have never thought of it though and would have fought the thing for a few hours and most likely would have been bleeding when done so thanks :)



Turn it upside down on saw horses and any of those options will work. Trying to do it upside down sounds like a nightmare.

A trick I learned for installing the vise when the bench is upright: Clamp a 2x4 in it so that it has a leg of its own to stand on.

[Tony Shea]

I know this is the neander forum but I had the same issue. I just scored the mortise out fairly deep with a marking knife and free hand power routed the bulk of the waste out watching carefully where the bit went. It is an akward position but just find a spot that your comfortable with. Then I removed the rest of the wast with chisels. It actually went a lot smoother than anticipated and gave me a perfect fit. Oh and that tip on clamping a peice of wood and brace the wood on the floor to hold the vice in position works beautifully. My vice was very unweidly and holding it while marking would have been impossible.

[Johnny Kleso]

I for the method of the jaw having the mortice and not the bench..
I would use hand and power tools but thats my method you could use what ever tools you choose..

[Mike Brady]

I drilled out the waste with a Forstner bit in a power drill and then defined the edges with a wide chisel and also final-fitted the vice jaw with the same chisel. The fit is very good, but I found that the router planes did not like the ash end grain. In general, the ash is much more difficult to work cross grain than with the grain. That is where its toughness and rigidity is most obvious.