Peter Aeschliman
04-15-2010, 1:24 PM
Hi All,
I recently sold my contractor's saw with my router table in the extension. I've decided to keep my new table saw's extension as is, so I need to build a stand alone router table.
After feeling the sting of buying my new sawstop, I'm not feeling up to spending a fortune on a new router table. It seems that the hardware and router plate inserts are what cost the most. So I have some ideas I want to bounce off you guys.
I will make it as a rolling unit with double-locking casters, and it will act as outfeed support for my table saw. I want to change the bits and adjust the bit height from above the table.
I have a porter cable 690, but I think I will use that router for handheld use and buy a new router. Since i don't want to have to spend a bunch of money on a router lift, I looked around for routers that have built-in lift mechanisms and it seems the Triton routers fit the bill. I think I'll just get the 2.25 HP version.
I'm thinking I'll build a very simple top with two 3/4" thick MDF sheets laminated together. I'm trying to avoid buying an insert plate for two reasons: 1) I don't want to hassle with routing the recess out and fussing with leveling screws, and 2) This is an opportunity to save money.
Idea #1: So I'm thinking that I will rout a recess in the underside of the table where the router mounts up. My plan is to make the recessed area as small as possible so that the router just fits, and to leave about 3/8" of table thickness in the area. My assumption is that the router plate will keep the thinner area of the table top rigid. I will cut a hole in the top for the router bits to come through... I have to think about what size I'll do because it needs to be one size fits all...
Question #1: Do you guys think this plan will work? My concern is whether the table will sag or if only 3/8" of MDF is strong enough to support the router. I assume I need to go down to 3/8" in order to change bits from above the table, but I won't know for sure until i get the router.
Idea #2: T-track adds up. I want to put miter slot in the table so that I can use feather boards. T-slots would be pretty weak in MDF, so I'm thinking about cutting a wide dado in the table, and making my own t-track out of some scrap oak I have using my t-slot bit.
Question #2: Will the expansion/contraction of the oak cause a problem in the MDF table?
Thanks for your input guys.
I recently sold my contractor's saw with my router table in the extension. I've decided to keep my new table saw's extension as is, so I need to build a stand alone router table.
After feeling the sting of buying my new sawstop, I'm not feeling up to spending a fortune on a new router table. It seems that the hardware and router plate inserts are what cost the most. So I have some ideas I want to bounce off you guys.
I will make it as a rolling unit with double-locking casters, and it will act as outfeed support for my table saw. I want to change the bits and adjust the bit height from above the table.
I have a porter cable 690, but I think I will use that router for handheld use and buy a new router. Since i don't want to have to spend a bunch of money on a router lift, I looked around for routers that have built-in lift mechanisms and it seems the Triton routers fit the bill. I think I'll just get the 2.25 HP version.
I'm thinking I'll build a very simple top with two 3/4" thick MDF sheets laminated together. I'm trying to avoid buying an insert plate for two reasons: 1) I don't want to hassle with routing the recess out and fussing with leveling screws, and 2) This is an opportunity to save money.
Idea #1: So I'm thinking that I will rout a recess in the underside of the table where the router mounts up. My plan is to make the recessed area as small as possible so that the router just fits, and to leave about 3/8" of table thickness in the area. My assumption is that the router plate will keep the thinner area of the table top rigid. I will cut a hole in the top for the router bits to come through... I have to think about what size I'll do because it needs to be one size fits all...
Question #1: Do you guys think this plan will work? My concern is whether the table will sag or if only 3/8" of MDF is strong enough to support the router. I assume I need to go down to 3/8" in order to change bits from above the table, but I won't know for sure until i get the router.
Idea #2: T-track adds up. I want to put miter slot in the table so that I can use feather boards. T-slots would be pretty weak in MDF, so I'm thinking about cutting a wide dado in the table, and making my own t-track out of some scrap oak I have using my t-slot bit.
Question #2: Will the expansion/contraction of the oak cause a problem in the MDF table?
Thanks for your input guys.