Simple Router Table idea

[Peter Aeschliman]

Hi All,

I recently sold my contractor's saw with my router table in the extension. I've decided to keep my new table saw's extension as is, so I need to build a stand alone router table.

After feeling the sting of buying my new sawstop, I'm not feeling up to spending a fortune on a new router table. It seems that the hardware and router plate inserts are what cost the most. So I have some ideas I want to bounce off you guys.

I will make it as a rolling unit with double-locking casters, and it will act as outfeed support for my table saw. I want to change the bits and adjust the bit height from above the table.

I have a porter cable 690, but I think I will use that router for handheld use and buy a new router. Since i don't want to have to spend a bunch of money on a router lift, I looked around for routers that have built-in lift mechanisms and it seems the Triton routers fit the bill. I think I'll just get the 2.25 HP version.

I'm thinking I'll build a very simple top with two 3/4" thick MDF sheets laminated together. I'm trying to avoid buying an insert plate for two reasons: 1) I don't want to hassle with routing the recess out and fussing with leveling screws, and 2) This is an opportunity to save money.

Idea #1: So I'm thinking that I will rout a recess in the underside of the table where the router mounts up. My plan is to make the recessed area as small as possible so that the router just fits, and to leave about 3/8" of table thickness in the area. My assumption is that the router plate will keep the thinner area of the table top rigid. I will cut a hole in the top for the router bits to come through... I have to think about what size I'll do because it needs to be one size fits all...

Question #1: Do you guys think this plan will work? My concern is whether the table will sag or if only 3/8" of MDF is strong enough to support the router. I assume I need to go down to 3/8" in order to change bits from above the table, but I won't know for sure until i get the router.

Idea #2: T-track adds up. I want to put miter slot in the table so that I can use feather boards. T-slots would be pretty weak in MDF, so I'm thinking about cutting a wide dado in the table, and making my own t-track out of some scrap oak I have using my t-slot bit.

Question #2: Will the expansion/contraction of the oak cause a problem in the MDF table?

Thanks for your input guys.

[Robert Reece]

Sounds like a decent plan. I plan on skipping the router plate too.

Think about buying the insert rings that come with the plates or making your own. Then you can avoid the one size fits all hole, which just isn't going to cut it.

I think the 3/8" MDF sized to fit your router base will be fine.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Thanks. I'm not sure how i'd go about making the ring inserts though. My primary concern would be how to fasten them down to the table.

I think I might just keep it simple and make a hole that will work with 90% of bits. I don't see myself doing raised panels on the table anytime soon, so I don't think I'll need to make a massive hole.

My other thought is that I could end up with a small shaper sometime in the next few years, so I could always use the big bits on the shaper.

[Brendan Plavis]

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=router+table

Although I hear bad things about harbor freight, you could give it a try. They have the router table plate, for $20, it seems to be what you would be looking for... has the fastening hardware as well as the inserts and such..

Not to mention, they seem to have a cheap Shaper for $100, which may be just as cheap in the long run.

Not sure if this is any help.