Taking out a sub floor

[Craig D Peltier]

I'm going to have my bathroom tiled. I offered to do demo. In order for the travertine to come out at the same height as the carpet the sub floor needs to come out.
I was told to take a skill saw and some pry bars to remove.

My question is, how will it come out from under the sheetrock and the door frames? Will it damage the wall and frames easily? Is it very tough not too damage?

Thanks

[Robert Reece]

What are you replacing it with?

[Craig D Peltier]

Durarock, then mud, then travertine tile.

[Bob Lloyd]

Are you really taking out the sub floor or just the underlayment of the existing flooring? The sub floor is the layer on top of the joists and will run under the walls. The underlayment will usually just be in the room and can be removed fairly easily; set the circular saw to the depth of the underlayment and cut into small sections. It usually is not under the wallboard so should not be problem. If you are removing the sub floor you will need a sawzall to cut flush to the wall board and you will probably have to install some sort of blocking to support the edges depending on joist position.

[Bob Lloyd]

Craig

You posted a reply before I got mine done. Sounds like you are just ripping up the underlayment, should come up easy in small sections.

[Robert Reece]

yeah, durarock isn't going to span joists. Yikes! :eek:
Hopefully you are leaving the subfloor. Otherwise as the other poster said you can remove the underlayment and keep the subfloor, then go from there. If you really need that height, you can remove the subfloor and then inlay the subfloor between joists. You'll need blocking set down the joists 3/4". Then you can run durarock. Sounds like a lot of work to pick up a 1/2" or whatever.

[Greg Portland]

If you really need that height, you can remove the subfloor and then inlay the subfloor between joists.This doesn't sound safe... do you add additional stretchers between the joists to support the subfloor? I have never heard of this and it doesn't seem like it would pass inspection (corners could deflect downward even with support for the middle of the subflooring, etc.).

[Troy Turner]

How much higher would it be than the carpet? Couldn't you just put down a floor transition piece or a threshold?

[Craig D Peltier]

Sorry so yes, the underlayment.:o

Im was just wondering on the edges where it meets the wall and under the door jambs. Might need a saw of sorts to cut through the nails I guess if the nails are too close to the wall and will only pivot up thus squishing the jambs and sheetrock.

[Craig D Peltier]

How much higher would it be than the carpet? Couldn't you just put down a floor transition piece or a threshold?

Not sure, I was just told by two tile companies that were here that it was the rigth way to do it, especially with stone cause its thicker than porcelain or ceramics. I would have to look at my door clearances as well.
You have to figure durarock which is what 3/8 or 1/2 thick,then heat mats,then mortar, then stone thats about 1/2 to 5/8 . Adds up to maybe 1.25 to 1.5 inches of floor height gain.

[Doug Carpenter]

Gerally speaking for a wood suspension floor (floor jiosts) you want a minimum of 1 1/4" subfloor thickness. Most houses have a subfloor that is 3/4" thick either, plywood, osb, or if is old sometimes it is 1 by 6 or 1 by 10 laid diagonally. You would remove everything down to that leaving the 3/4" subfloor. You could then install 1/2 durock on top of that. I prefer to set it into mortar and staple it with a 1/2" crown stapler. If you have the 1 by's then mortar will squish out the cracks so I would opt for a different plan.

Many older homes have a concrete bed that sits in and around the existing joists. Often poured onto a bed of 1 by's nailed between the joists as earlier mentioned. If you have this floor system you will have alot of work ahead of you; not only in removal and clean up but also in repair of the floorjoists because the concrete often does a number on the joists.

In any case you may be in for adjusting your door bottom.

Maybe with a little exploration / demo you will reveal what you are dealing with and we can asist you better.

good luck

[Craig D Peltier]

Gerally speaking for a wood suspension floor (floor jiosts) you want a minimum of 1 1/4" subfloor thickness. Most houses have a subfloor that is 3/4" thick either, plywood, osb, or if is old sometimes it is 1 by 6 or 1 by 10 laid diagonally. You would remove everything down to that leaving the 3/4" subfloor. You could then install 1/2 durock on top of that. I prefer to set it into mortar and staple it with a 1/2" crown stapler. If you have the 1 by's then mortar will squish out the cracks so I would opt for a different plan.

Many older homes have a concrete bed that sits in and around the existing joists. Often poured onto a bed of 1 by's nailed between the joists as earlier mentioned. If you have this floor system you will have alot of work ahead of you; not only in removal and clean up but also in repair of the floorjoists because the concrete often does a number on the joists.

In any case you may be in for adjusting your door bottom.

Maybe with a little exploration / demo you will reveal what you are dealing with and we can asist you better.

good luck

I can see what the underlayment is and the sub. Underlayment is 3/4 ply not particle board. Sub is 3/4. Bathroom is on second floor. House built in 89.

[Henry Ambrose]

I think you're about to make a mistake. And I think your tile companies might not be the sharpest knives in the drawer.

Stone generally needs a stiffer floor than man-made materials. You should look over at -- http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php to get some good info on how to do this right. It really does matter and you can't fake it.

Now as far as cutting out the underlayment, this is what an old circular blade is for. Or buy a special "demo" blade. Cuts right through nails as needed. Wear lots of clothes and especially good eye protection.

[Doug Carpenter]

What mistake is he making?

He is leaving the original subfloor in place. to that he is adding 1/2" durock mortared and fastened to the subfloor. IMHO it doesn't get much better than that.

One note, I would screw the original subfloor to the joists to ensure the floor is attached well and prevent squeaks.

Provided ofcourse that the original subfloor is in good shape. In the grand scheme of things there isn't anything in a house that can't be repaired.

[Thomas love]

+ 1 on what Doug said. The 3/4" sub floor probably was installed after the walls where put up and the house was dried in. Back in the 80s that was pretty common practice. I would remove any door jambs in the area where the work is to be performed. This will make it easier to remove the sub floor as well as install the new floor so it ends up under the door jamb as it should. This also will allow you to trim the bottom of the jambs if necessary and reset them correctly. IMO nothing looks worse than new stone / tile cut to fit around the bottom of the jambs with a grout joint that will eventually crumble.
If you must leave the jambs in place my other suggestion would be to at least remove the casing and reinstall when floor is complete. When the new base for the stone is set you can use a flush cut saw and a piece of the stone as a gauge to trim the bottom of the jambs while in place. I have yet to see flooring installers not screw up a jamb or two with electric jamb saw. Good luck with your project
Tom

[Henry Ambrose]

Nothing has been said about the joists or the distance they span. 2x6s spanning 12 feet? 2x10s spanning 6 feet? Engineered joists on 24" centers? You need to know the answer before you tile over something that's not up to the job of supporting your nice new floor.

3/4 plywood subfloor is a good sign but you need to check to see what is holding that up.

If you need more depth to meet your other finished floor, you can take up the subfloor and do a "drop-in" where the subfloor sits down between the joists. More work but it might be worth it in the long run. 1/4" Hardiebacker will save some depth and is all you need anyhow. Hardie board cuts, drills, screws and handles way nicer than durock.

The tile guys who are gonna tile over your unknown floor are taking a chance it'll be just fine. Of course they'll have their check and be gone by the time the first cracks appear. Or it might be just fine. I'd look first and be sure.