Delta T2 fence question...

[Michael Dunn]

Hey guys,

Earlier I asked which fence system I could buy that would be a great upgrade and not break the bank. Long story short I bought the T2 for $149. I am nearing completion of my table saw/ routing center now and have a question...

I now have a right extension wing that adds 30" to the table top surface. If I mount the fence where it is 'supposed' to be I will have some 'wasted' rip capacity.

Would you see it to be advantageous to shift the fence to the right in effort to use as much of the table capacity as possible? If so, do you have any tips on doing this?

I bought a new self adhesive measuting tape. I was considering turing the fence rail so that the tape would not be visible. Then I could drill new holes and tap new threads, apply the new tape, etc... Sound good???

Also, what disadvantage would there be, if any, by losing some left of blade capacity. I don't believe I have ever used my fence left of the blade.

Also, my table is 37" deep, and the fence is 37" long. The fence, obviously doesn't start right at the table, but at the rail. Will I be o.k. by removing the clip on the rear end of the fence? The fence will not reach the rear rail, in fact I won't even be able to install the rear rail. Biesemeyer's do not have a rear rail, correct?

Sorry for the loooooong post, I'm just anxious to get this project done.

Thanx,

shotgunn

[Bobby O'Neal]

I have an old Craftsman 2hp contractor saw that I mounted a T2 on. I took the clip off the fence and don't use a rear rail. I just used the smaller angle iron that comes with it to mount an outfeed table on, and the fence, without the rear clip, slides on the outfeed table.

[Michael Dunn]

Thanx! Did you move the rail over at all? Or did you leave it standard?


I have an old Craftsman 2hp contractor saw that I mounted a T2 on. I took the clip off the fence and don't use a rear rail. I just used the smaller angle iron that comes with it to mount an outfeed table on, and the fence, without the rear clip, slides on the outfeed table.

[scott spencer]

If your saw is left tilt, there's very little chance you'll ever need rip capacity on the left side, so there should be no problem sliding the front rail tube further right. You may want to support the right side of the saw though....

[Michael Dunn]

It is a right tilt.


If your saw is left tilt, there's very little chance you'll ever need rip capacity on the left side, so there should be no problem sliding the front rail tube further right. You may want to support the right side of the saw though....

[Jim Rimmer]

I repurposed an old C'man TS into RT and mounted a T2 on it. In my case the fence was too long. I bought a small piece of Lexan at the borg, cut a pieced to fit on the bottom of the fence and it slides on the table. Attached it with superglue.

My dilemma right now is whether to cut the excess rail off. I'm going to use it for a while and then decide.

[Michael Dunn]

Any tips or advice? Any do's or don't do's with regaurd to shifting my fence rail to the right for a greater rip capaicty?

I am nearing completion of this project and want to know what you guys think.

shotgunn


Hey guys,

Earlier I asked which fence system I could buy that would be a great upgrade and not break the bank. Long story short I bought the T2 for $149. I am nearing completion of my table saw/ routing center now and have a question...

I now have a right extension wing that adds 30" to the table top surface. If I mount the fence where it is 'supposed' to be I will have some 'wasted' rip capacity.

Would you see it to be advantageous to shift the fence to the right in effort to use as much of the table capacity as possible? If so, do you have any tips on doing this?

I bought a new self adhesive measuting tape. I was considering turing the fence rail so that the tape would not be visible. Then I could drill new holes and tap new threads, apply the new tape, etc... Sound good???

Also, what disadvantage would there be, if any, by losing some left of blade capacity. I don't believe I have ever used my fence left of the blade.

Also, my table is 37" deep, and the fence is 37" long. The fence, obviously doesn't start right at the table, but at the rail. Will I be o.k. by removing the clip on the rear end of the fence? The fence will not reach the rear rail, in fact I won't even be able to install the rear rail. Biesemeyer's do not have a rear rail, correct?

Sorry for the loooooong post, I'm just anxious to get this project done.

Thanx,

shotgunn

[Mark Godlesky]

I think if you have a right tilt saw you may not want to move your rails all the way to the right. If you want to make a bevel cut you will want the fence to the left of the blade. If you never make bevel cuts, then maybe it's OK. My $0.02.

[Michael Dunn]

I wouldn't say I never make bevel cuts. I would say I hardly make bevel cuts.

As is, the fence gives me left of blade rip capacity of 13 1/2". That already seems pretty limiting to me. The right of blade rip capacity is 30", which I could expand to around 40".

How 'bout this??? In the event that I do need to rip a bevel I could clamp a straigt edge of sort (jointed hardwood, machined aluminum extrusion, etc...) to the table top (sqarely of course...) to act as a fence?

I think that may suffice, Hmmm???

Thanx,

shotgunn


I think if you have a right tilt saw you may not want to move your rails all the way to the right. If you want to make a bevel cut you will want the fence to the left of the blade. If you never make bevel cuts, then maybe it's OK. My $0.02.

[Bobby O'Neal]

My saw is a left tilt and I slid the T2 over just a bit. Without putting a tape on it, I'd guess that I have about 60% of my rip capacity to the right and 40% to the left. Really, I only moved it over because of the way the holes lined up in the angle iron and the table, not counting the extensions. i didn't want to mount it on the extensions.