Lee Valley skew block plane now available...anyone getting one? why?

[Chris Friesen]

The new skew block planes are now available:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=65373&cat=51&ap=1

I'm trying to figure out the "killer app" for these things. I already have a skew rabbet plane, a low angle block, a shoulder plane, and a router plane, so it's not clear to me why I would need one of these.

Anyone got any ideas?

[Tri Hoang]

You are too logical...it's just another cool toy.

The skew block offers more control in certain applications. I have similar planes as listed but still find myself wishing for the LN 140 when I need to do little trimming. The med. shoulder plane sole is a little too small. The big rabbet plane is a little too tall. The regular block can't get close to the side.

It's one of those nice to have tool...not a must.

My order with the skew block is on the way & should be here tomorrow, according to UPS tracking.:D

[Tony Shea]

Glad you pointed it out. Seems like a very close cousin to the 140 which I've use a friends' to create a small rabbet on the end of a board to help me line up dovetails. The old 140 trick that I learned on this site. It's a good plane for planing cross grain rabbets (don't beleive this is the correct term in cross grain cuts).

[Rob Fisher]

I am getting one as I don't have any of the planes you mentioned. I intend to initially use it for some tenons that I have coming up, as well it will be my only low angle block and will hopefully work as a shooting plane.

Rob

[Tony Shea]

Tri, so are you saying you ordered the new Veritas plane or the LN 140? I think I would rather have the LN myself just because I've used it before.

[Ken Werner]

Yup.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=138065

[Tri Hoang]

I've been waiting for the LV version. If you are into the look, perhaps the LN is a better fit.

Ken just posted a very nice, detailed review. I love LV innovations. The ability to open up the mouth, blow out any dust/clogging, and close it back up precisely where it was before and not having to worry about hitting the blade is just too cool to pass up.

It's not the blade (or chip breaker). It's the innovations, baby!

[Bob Strawn]

I really, really wish I could afford a match pair of these guys. Bevel up, skew rabbets with guides. A set of these will make some things possible that are going to be quite difficult other wise.

Typically you angle a plane as you work, but you can't when doing a rabbet, so a skew blade give you the same effect of better blade strength to finer cutting angle.

Sometime you almost have to have a low angle blade. If you cut much pine end grain then you know this to be true. Lee Valley has made some amazing bevel up planes, that work great across a wide variety of woods and conditions.

Some times however you need the opposite skew plane. For example imagine cutting a rabbet around a diamond shape.

http://toolmakingart.com/images/Tool%20Box/Tool%20Box%20Tool%20Rack14%20Articulated%20Box%20E nd.JPG

When cutting a diamond shaped rabbet you are absolutely going to run into a situation where you need the opposite skew to avoid planing against the grain. If you do this around a bit of pine, as shown here, the pair of Lee Valley skew block plains would be the dream tool. No question about it. For more detail I once wrote a blog entry (http://toolmakingart.com/2008/09/30/making-a-hexagonal-tool-box-part-3-precision-fitting/) about just this issue. If you read it, it makes it clear why a low angle bevel up matched pair of skew planes will allow you to easily do some operations that are very complicated otherwise.

Bob

[Christian Castillo]

Wow, an adjustable mouth huh on top of all the functions of a 140 plane, pure Lee Valley innovation. That thing is the swiss army knife of block planes. As if I didn't have a big enough wish list of tools already :(!

[Jonathan McCullough]

I seldom comment about planes because everybody gets so worked up about them, but I can see how this will be the plane for me to buy. I have a Stanley 45-alike, and a Stanley 46, which is essentially the same thing but with a skewed blade, and man I can tell you it makes a huge difference. I also used to use my Dad's 140 when I was a kid and it was a terrific plane. About all it needed to improve it was an adjustable mouth, and as this has one, it could just about be a giant killer. You could shoot rails and stiles and small carcase stuff with it, you could clean up tenon shoulders, make rabbets, and on top of that just use it as a regular block plane.

[Wayne Hendrix]

Wow I really needed one of those last week. I was adjusting the depth of some wide (2") rabbets on some shadow boxes I am making. If I make more of the shadow boxes I will definitely buy at least one of these planes.

[David Weaver]

Not me. Already have the LN 140 bronze righty with nicker and the skew rebate pair from LV.

I use my 140 to clean tenons more than anything, but have also used it as a final clean up on a couple of raised panel doors.

I really wouldn't be harmed if I had to live without it, though, don't think I've even had to regrind it yet in a year and a half.

I can clean the tenon cheeks with a float or better yet (for price reasons) with a vixen, and I have plenty of other skew planes that could do any needed clean up on raised panels.

It does look to be a nice plane, though, but my wants don't follow new releases any longer.

[Andrew Gibson]

I would Love one... or both. Would any one of you rich guys Like to adopt me as the woodworking son you never had. If you are too young to have a 25 YO son you could adopt me as your brother you like to buy expensive tools for.

[David Gendron]

I would Love one... or both. Would any one of you rich guys Like to adopt me as the woodworking sone you never had. If you are too young to have a 25 YO son you could adopt me as your brother you like to buy expensive tools for.

What about twins???:D:rolleyes:

[Zach England]

I would Love one... or both. Would any one of you rich guys Like to adopt me as the woodworking son you never had. If you are too young to have a 25 YO son you could adopt me as your brother you like to buy expensive tools for.

Do you have a sister?

[John Keeton]

First, let me thank Ken for such a great review on his thread, and further state that I have had the privilege of using the new skew rabbet block plane and it is fantastic! A clear winner over the LN 140. So much more refined, has better balance, considerably better fence adjustment mechanism, and superior in so many ways. And, it just looks better!

Not to knock the LN 140. It is a great plane, and more traditional in appearance. But, for those that are not tied to tradition, and that like an innovative approach to tool design, this is a winner!

[Eugenio Musto]

Lovely tool,functional and well designed.I think it will be a best seller in Italy(and not only:D).

[James Carmichael]

Uses for a skew/rabbet/block: almost anything a block or rabbet plane well do (usually better on the rabbets thanks to the skew). That's provided the edge of the iron is skewed to exactly the same angle as the mouth. It took me the longest time to figure out why tennons I trimmed with my MF #7 were coming out sloped.

The other reason is that every vintage example of these planes appears to be made for leftys, as the rabbeting edge is on the right.

[Joel Goodman]

The other reason is that every vintage example of these planes appears to be made for leftys, as the rabbeting edge is on the right.

Would someone explain which version is generally more comfortable for a right handed person? I think the right handed planes have the rabbeting edge on the right -- does this mean they are more useful for right handed people? -- or is it the reverse as James implies? Help!

[David Weaver]

I think the right handed planes have the rabbeting edge on the right -- does this mean they are more useful for right handed people?

If you generally walk from the right side of your bench to the left when you're planing, then yes, that's the more useful plane. Also nice to have to trim tenon cheeks, you can work right up to the shoulder standing to the right side of the workpiece.

[Jim Belair]

It does seem a bit odd. If working a long edge with the grain, planing right to left makes sense for a righty, with the piece secured to the workbench. If making a shorter cut across the grain my tendency is to want to secure the work with my left hand and work the plane with my right.
Guess I need both :o

Jim B

[Mark Maleski]

So much more refined, has better balance, considerably better fence adjustment mechanism, and superior in so many ways.

It was the blade that sold me. ;)

[Thomas Nye]

I have a vintage stanley #140 and love it. Since the LN looks to be an upgrade to a plane I already know and love, I would definately get the LN #140. The veritas looks nice, but it would be LN all the way for me. It just looks to be better made and more durable to me. I am definately going to get one soon to compliment my vintage stanley.

[Derek Cohen]

Would someone explain which version is generally more comfortable for a right handed person? I think the right handed planes have the rabbeting edge on the right -- does this mean they are more useful for right handed people? -- or is it the reverse as James implies? Help!

The correct method is to clamp the tenon so that your right hand is free to push the plane against the shoulder. Here is the Stanley #140 being used this way (remember, the Stanley was the original version, and only a single direction was produced, and this was foir right-handers) ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Picture6.jpg

With regard to the Veritas Skew Block Planes versus the Veritas Skew Rabbet Planes ...

I have very recently written quite a bit on their differences at WoodNet. Here are a few exerpts that may interest others with the same question ..

The skew block plane is aimed at precision work - the mouth is tight and the control is increased owing to the lowered centre of effort.

The skew rabbet plane is a "coarse" plane, with a widish mouth, aimed at rapid removal of waste, with a high centre of effort for increased leverage.

The skew blade enables both to work across the grain, and the rabbet side enables one to work against a side wall - which is why they appear similar, but other than that they have different purposes. You would not, for example, want to trim a tenon with the rabbet plane, and you would not want to shape a rabbet with the block plane.

.. end grain ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/LV%20planes/Skew%20Block/Planingendgrain2.jpg

.. cross grain ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Planes/LV%20planes/Skew%20Block/IMG_5659.jpg

Here's a way of looking at it: both may be used for raised panels. The skew rabbet plane will remove the waste fast and leave a decent finish ... ready for final smoothing. The skew block plane willl finish it. You could use the latter as well to remove the waste, but this would be a slowish process and tiring.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UsingRebatePlanes_html_2a30064d.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/UsingRebatePlanes_html_m1ca796c7.jpg

Bottom line: The planes are for different purposes. Forget that they both have skew blades and can be used across the grain. One is for rough work and the other is for fine work. Now which type of plane do you need most?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Pam Niedermayer]

Derek, I understand the subtle differences you've stated, but have to say that I've had no problem trimming tenon cheeks with the LN 140. I do have some spelching concerns as the plane leaves the piece, but would expect the LV block to also exhibit minor spelching.

That said, the LV looks wonderful, just sitting there tempting me into spending.

Pam

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, I understand the subtle differences you've stated, but have to say that I've had no problem trimming tenon cheeks with the LN 140. I do have some spelching concerns as the plane leaves the piece, but would expect the LV block to also exhibit minor spelching.

That said, the LV looks wonderful, just sitting there tempting me into spending.

Pam

I have experience using both the Stanely and the LN #140 on tenon cheeks. I tend to avoid this type of plane on cheeks unless there is a lot of waste to remove (and sometimes when you need to plane it off as there is too little thickness to saw it off). I MUCH prefer the router plane for tuning cheeks, with a rasp or similar for any final tweeks.

The LV/Veritas skew block plane, no matter how excellent it is in other areas, falls into the same category as the Stanley and LN.

Spelching? I am not sure where that topic came from, but that is expected will all planes that work across an edge. I do have a recommendation in this regard, one that I prepared for the review I did on the Veritas Small Shoulder plane, but then decided it was not appropriate for the article ...

I started out with cheecks that were sawn out-of-square. You can see the scribed lines ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Tuning%20tenons/5.jpg

Use a chisel to chamfer to the lines ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Joints/Tuning%20tenons/8.jpg

Now you can plane to the line with the added bonus of viewing your progress as you plane (and not having to stop and peer around the sides to check how close you get to the lines.

One last fun addition here. I did have a LN #140 for use when I was examining first the prototype of the Veritas skew block plane, and later the pre-production version. I have just put up on my website a before-and-after of my LN restoration made a couple of years ago (this then replaced a Stanley #140) ... http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/LNSkewRabbetBlockPlaneRestoration.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John Keeton]

Derek, neat story on the LN 140!! Thanks!

[Pam Niedermayer]

Chamfer before planing to avoid chamfer

Well, sure, that's mostly how I avoid spelching. I merely mentioned it as a concern. It's still a concern as one gets closer to the previous line and the chamfer runs out.

As to router planes for tenon cheeks, I know that many others also do this; but I hate the thought. It's just too fiddly for me, right up there with using aa compass to layout dovetails; whereas using a plane, chisel, and/or rasp/float takes advantage of previous layout.

Nice LN 140 story. Thomas is wonderful.

Pam