Fence Replacement

[Rob Hough]

I'm going to replace the fence faces on my G0691 with a piece of corian and had a couple of questions. One is extreme n00bness on my part and I'm looking for some sound ideas.

1) What is a good way to lay out the drill points so that they match the fence? Measuring is the obvious first conclusion I came to, but was wondering if there other more sure fire ways of doing that. I tried using the existing fence faces but the problem is... they flex and stretch. I used them to layout the current fence (plywood) and a few of the holes were misaligned enough to cause issues bolting it down using all the fasteners.

2) Will this cut ok on my saw or should I replace my WWII blade with something cheaper to prevent it from damaging my blade? If I do that... do I need to worry about chip out or anything like that?

The place I got it from use a delta unisaw with a forrest blade, so I'm guessing it should be ok - but you guys haven't steered me wrong yet, so I thought I'd lean on your experience.

Thanks in advance!

[Jamie Buxton]

I can't understand why a woodworker puts plastic faces on a fence. Wood works perfectly well, is nicer to work with, is readily available, and is less expensive. Corian's big virtue is that it is waterproof, which doesn't help on a saw.

[Rob Hough]

I can't understand why a woodworker puts plastic faces on a fence. Wood works perfectly well, is nicer to work with, is readily available, and is less expensive. Corian's big virtue is that it is waterproof, which doesn't help on a saw.


thanks for the helpful information.

[Eric Gustafson]

I can't understand why a woodworker puts plastic faces on a fence. Wood works perfectly well, is nicer to work with, is readily available, and is less expensive. Corian's big virtue is that it is waterproof, which doesn't help on a saw.

It is dead flat, slicker than snail snot, and stable.

[Jim O'Dell]

Use your old fence face as the template. Make sure the face is up on both pieces (Corian does have a top and bottom). Drill a pilot hole in one corner, put a screw through it, then move to the far corner and do the same. That way all the others will stay aligned as you drill them. You will want to use one of the special bits that fits the hole diameter, but drills a smaller hole so that you can come back with a forstner bit to drill the recesses, then drill the proper diameter hole for the screw to go through. Jim.

[Frank Warta]

Don't know just thinkin' out loud, but isn't the corian more stable? I'd assume it would be less likely to ding, warp, cup, bow, etc. in general over time? I think it's obviously nice to work with wood when we can but sometime synthetic materials do have practical advantages especially when the aesthetics don't matter so much.

As to the OP's question, I'd probably try and make a template that spanned all of the holes available. Set bolts backwards hold them in place with nuts, "color" the ends of the bolts with a sharpie and quickly (before it can dry) push my soon-to-be template against the bolts to leave marks. That way you can test the fit and adjust as necessary on scraps. Also within reason you could make the through holes a little over-sized anyway.

[Jamie Buxton]

...Don't know just thinkin' out loud, but isn't the corian more stable?....

It is more stable than wood with respect to humidity. However, it is less stable with respect to temperature. I think neither effect is likely to be an issue when it is bolted to a big piece of steel.

[Jim Rimmer]

I can't understand why a woodworker puts plastic faces on a fence. Wood works perfectly well, is nicer to work with, is readily available, and is less expensive. Corian's big virtue is that it is waterproof, which doesn't help on a saw.
What is your saw made of?

[Frank Warta]

It is more stable than wood with respect to humidity. However, it is less stable with respect to temperature. I think neither effect is likely to be an issue when it is bolted to a big piece of steel.

That's interesting to hear, like I said I didn't know but had assumed it would be more stable. It's always good to know how materials react to their environment. When you say less stable with regard to temperature, do you mean it warps, or expands linearly on it's accesses?

[Jamie Buxton]

What is your saw made of?

Do you have a Corian table on your saw?

[Eric Gustafson]

That's interesting to hear, like I said I didn't know but had assumed it would be more stable. It's always good to know how materials react to their environment. When you say less stable with regard to temperature, do you mean it warps, or expands linearly on it's accesses?

It expands in all directions, if you slot the screw holes at either end you will negate any expansion effects. Its COE is less than the HDPE Grizzly puts on the fence.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Here is how I would do it:
1) Cut the corian to size.
2) Put the corian on your table saw wing, put the old fence on the corian being careful to make sure back of the old fence is on the front of the new corian.
3) clamp it down using many clamps but being careful to not obstruct access to the holes.
4) use a transfer punch of the same diameter of the through hole (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=54892&cat=1,43456) or a brad point bit of the same diameter to mark the hole locations.
5) take it to your drill press and cut the relief holes with a forstner bit
6) drill the through holes

Note that corian blows out really bad when drilling (or at least the stuff I had did). So be careful when you are breaking through and also make sure the back is supported. I just made a ZCI for my 691 out of corian :).

Salem

[Tullie Templet]

Without trying not sound like a dummy is this the same Corian as counter tops. The reason I ask is I was at the borg the other day and Corian is hard. Not something I would cut with my table saw. So I must be thinking of the wrong stuff right?

[Rob Hough]

I'll keep the blow-out thing in mind... I've got enough left over to make a ZCI with. I might have to give that a try. did you provide enough clearance for the riving knife?



Without trying not sound like a dummy is this the same Corian as counter tops. The reason I ask is I was at the borg the other day and Corian is hard. Not something I would cut with my table saw. So I must be thinking of the wrong stuff right?


Same stuff, and I called a few places around town and all said it was safe to use on the tablesaw. In fact all of them did use their tablesaw. I switched to a cheaper blade (still sharp) just because I wanted to be safe though.

I have mine cut to length now. Just need a smaller forstner bit. I'm going to go the oversized hole route using the original face as a template. It was close - just a few holes didn't line up perfectly. Very well could have been my drilling technique too. I think I did that one freehand.

[Tullie Templet]

Where did you buy yours? Online or locally? I need to redo my fences also. Am I correct that you can run it through you jointer and planer also if needed? Thanks !!!

[Lee Schierer]

Look for a set of dowel centers http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/27179-01-200.jpg they will mark your holes exactly.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I'll keep the blow-out thing in mind... I've got enough left over to make a ZCI with. I might have to give that a try. did you provide enough clearance for the riving knife?

Yup. First I double-stick taped the original insert to the Corian such that the bottom of the Corian was on the top of the original insert.

Then Ibansaw'd close.

Then I put a couple more wraps of tape around the edge of the original insert because it fits loosely and I wanted a tight fit for the ZCI (I don't really want to have to bolt it down). This is trial and error but I think I had at least 6 wraps around it in the end.

Next I flush-trimmed it at my router table.

I then used a transfer punch to layout the set screws and I scribbled where to drill out the finger holes and access to the riving knife pin. I moved these out a hair to making any part of the corian too thin. But didn't drill/tap the holes yet (still need it attached to the old insert).

Next I took it to my table saw and took the tape off the edge of the original insert and put the still-stuck-together corian and original insert into the saw. I clamped a 2x4 over the sandwich and raised the blade just enough to mark the corian. Note the riving knife MUST be removed for this step!.

Next I took the ZCI off of the old insert and routed relief where it was marked from the table saw blade so I could set it flush in the saw.

Next I drilled and tapped (from the top) the set screws and finger access.

After that I took it back to the TS to cut the through kerf. I adjusted the set screws to level the ZCI, clamped a 2x4 over the insert, turned on the saw and raised the blade (of course with the riving knife OFF).

Now all I needed to do was cut relief for the riving knife. For this I removed the ZCI, installed the riving knife, raised the blade to it's highest point and marked where the backmost point of the riving knife is.

I projected the kerf marks backward and used this as a guide to cut on the scroll saw.

Finally I beveled the front edge of the ZCI. The edges of that corian are really sharp! I got a piece of it in the back of my thumb and was digging it out for a week :(.

Good luck!
Salem

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I used to use these but I much prefer transfer punches in through holes. It is much easier to make sure they are aligned if you can clamp them together.

Salem

[Rob Hough]

Where did you buy yours? Online or locally? I need to redo my fences also. Am I correct that you can run it through you jointer and planer also if needed? Thanks !!!

I found it locally. Just had to call around. I don't know about planing or jointing. I would assume that if you can run it through a ts with problems, then you should be fine there as well... If you have access to a drum sander that might be the best route to go though. My seems pretty dead on flat.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Where did you buy yours? Online or locally? I need to redo my fences also. Am I correct that you can run it through you jointer and planer also if needed? Thanks !!!

I would avoid face jointing corian. Edge joint maybe but you should not need it.
Salem

[Bill White]

Where did you buy yours? Online or locally? I need to redo my fences also. Am I correct that you can run it through you jointer and planer also if needed? Thanks !!!

I would not put any Acrylic (Corian, Wilsonart, etc.) through my planer. Edge joint maybe, but a TS should get edges straight enough. A local countertop shop should be able to help with questions, and maybe offer some off-cuts cheap or free.
Remember that you're dealing with a type of plastic (that's an oversimplification), so it has sharp edges and will burn. Be careful.
Bill

[Rob Hough]

New face is up; pretty darned square and very flat. I'm quite happy with it so far. I'll spend some time tuning the fence up completely tomorrow and will get some pictures to boot.

I'm sure my choice in material wasn't pleasing to all... but much like my sex life, it made me happy.... and well... I'm happy. ;)

[Mike Leung]

This is a good idea. I'll be calling around local shops in my area for some scraps to make my fences. The melamine surface on my fence is not perfectly flat. I can't wait to see your pics.

[Jim O'Dell]

Excellent tutorial Salem! Thanks for posting.
When I made the Corian inserts for my Ridgid TS, after cutting close to size, I used the leveling holes as a way to secure the 2 pieces together. I drilled one, tapped it, and put a screw the same threads as my leveling screws in to hold it together, then did the opposite corner. After these 2 were in, I'd drill the other 2 and mark all other holes. Remember, this stuff is 1/2", so no need to face joint it. Also no reason to edge joint it as the router with the flush trim bit makes for a very smooth side. If you have a ridge or rough area, just take a file to it.
I used all the Corian I had making the ZCI for the Ridgid, so I'll have to go out looking for a new supply. Oh, and I use a triple chip grind plastics blade on my TS to cut the Corian. Works great! Nice smooth edges. No tear out. But the corners are very sharp! I used a rabbit bit in the router to cut the relief on the edge to sit below the TS top slightly, and the leveling screws to adjust. Jim.

[Rob Hough]

Wow, I totally forgot about posting pictures for this... I ended up going with the slightly over sized holes for the bolts. Work out well. I think it came out pretty good looking:


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/picture.php?albumid=312&pictureid=3397

[Paul McGaha]

Rob,

I think you're right, that is pretty good looking.

PHM

[John Petsche]

great photos and idea, thanks for posting.