Neander Newbie

[Lee Ludden]

I have practically zero experience with hand tools. I needed a small block plane for a project about 6 months ago, and not knowing better, I picked up a Groz from Woodcraft. Knowing nothing about planes, I figured it would work out of the box. I'll be generous and admit it worked, but the job required enough sanding that I figured I'd have been better off just sanding it down from the start.

About 3 months later, I went to a Lie-Nielsen event, and got to see what quality hand tools are all about. I picked up a #5 and set of chisels. They worked amazingly well out of the box, but I realized I needed to develop some sharpening skills. I wasn't willing to use these LN's for practice, so I dug out the old Groz and figured I'd have a go at it.

I did a basic flattening of the sole of the Groz with some sand paper on a granite block, then used a Tormek 2000 to put a basic edge on the blade. Since I really have no idea what I am aiming for, I figured I'd post a few photos and ask for some feedback.

Here is me starting on a piece of poplar.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2708/4520044156_ba7438fe45.jpg

Here is a picture of a few shaving that I made. It looked to be taking fairly even shavings across the board. I was able to get pretty much one continuous shaving across the length of the board.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2679/4519409157_266f4b5cc5.jpg

[David Gendron]

I think you are doing good! Even if poplar is a fairly forgiving wood. Using the same plane and the same wood, try taking shaving from the end grain of the board, you can use some mineral spirit to get the end grain wet before starting, but in the end, you should get shavings, not "dust"!
Try this and let us know.
Cheers

[Jim Koepke]

Lee,

Welcome to the world of fettling for fun and fine shavings.

The shavings look good. As David says, the real test is end grain. With a sharp blade you should be able to make very thin shavings. They will fall apart when you pick them up.

I am not familiar with the Tormek system. Not sure if it can hone as fine as an 8000 water stone.

jim

[Russell Sansom]

The essence of this note is that the tormek finish will get you by sometimes, but you really need to go one more level of refinement.

The finish left by the Tormek is almost good enough. It will get you a nice shaving on poplar along the grain. But for end grain you need to hone to the next level. From the finer Tormek hollow ground 8 or 10 short strokes on a two grades of waterstones will give you a finish you can shave with. Shapton 1000 and 6000 will work. Better from the finished tormek ( don't buff! ) a 4000 and end with an 8000.
You know to flatten the back of the iron, right?

[Lee Ludden]

I have a 1000/6000 waterstone combo, but I've not used it much - that is the next thing to tackle. I am looking at the Veritas Mk II Jig for doing the bevel/microbevel. I currently have the guide that came with the stones that seems to work, but looks like it would be a pain to do the microbevel with.

[Joe Close]

The Mk II jig is great. It makes honing soooo much easier.