Rookie Mistake!

[Joe Shinall]

Ok, so I was trying a finishing technique my boss wanted me to try. I used a coat of Teak oil on an oak dresser. Then I mixed 50/50 ratio of Teak oil and Helsman poly for my first coat. It came out beautifully glossy and smooth. So I cleaned up and like an idiot I forgot to hammer down the top of the Helmsan can.

I pushed the top on the can so it was covered but not air tight I dont believe. After about 10 hours I realized it and opened it up and the consistency still seems right, no hardening or anything.

So my question is, do I scratch the can or should I keep it? It was a brand new can and I only used maybe half an inch of the amount inside, that's why I ask. Don't want to just throw away 15 bucks. Anybody have any insight on it?

[Jay Jolliffe]

I'd keep it. If it didn't turn to gel or get a lot thicker it's ok. It would take more than ten hrs for the driers in it to ruin it. Some may say different but 10 hrs of a little air won't hurt it.

[Joe Chritz]

If in doubt test it like you would shellac.

Put a small amount down on a scrap and see if it hardens in the expected time and to a solid finish.

In reality the lid sitting on the top is likely air tight enough since there isn't any pressure difference to try and force air one way or the other. Remember the finish is exposed to air constantly even when the top is secured properly. That is why things like Bloxogen and dumping marbles into finish cans are around.

Joe

[Prashun Patel]

You should be fine; I've done that plenty of times. About the only varnish I've found that doesn't like this is Waterlox. In fact, if the sealed bottle is less than 1/2 full, Waterlox will gel up within a day or 2.

Sounds like you're doing a Maloof type finish blending poly with an oil varnish... I'd just be careful to wipe all future coats off fairly well. Subsequent coats of this kind of mix can get gummy pretty quick on the surface and can make a sticky mess if not buffed off fairly quickly.

I'm not an advocate for built up finishes on exterior wood, but if you want your surface to build, then I'd just switch to 100% Helmsman, since the Teak Oil will just inhibit that.

[Joe Shinall]

You should be fine; I've done that plenty of times. About the only varnish I've found that doesn't like this is Waterlox. In fact, if the sealed bottle is less than 1/2 full, Waterlox will gel up within a day or 2.

Sounds like you're doing a Maloof type finish blending poly with an oil varnish... I'd just be careful to wipe all future coats off fairly well. Subsequent coats of this kind of mix can get gummy pretty quick on the surface and can make a sticky mess if not buffed off fairly quickly.

I'm not an advocate for built up finishes on exterior wood, but if you want your surface to build, then I'd just switch to 100% Helmsman, since the Teak Oil will just inhibit that.

Yeah, it coats actually a lot better than I would have thought. The 2 together dry relatively fast. Ready for another coat after just a few hours. I am waiting about 24 hours between coats though, mainly just because that's the time frame I have because of work.

It's actually an dresser for inside, I have to say the Helmsman, to be an exterior finish, does great on interior pieces to me. I'll post some pictures when finished. I've never got this great of a finish with so few of coats before. Now, granted, I've only tried a few finishing techniques anyways, but so far, this one takes the cake.

[Scott Holmes]

Mixing an interior varnish with an exterior varnish is not a good idea... neither is mixing different brands of varnish.

Teal oil is a MARKETING guy's term, teak trees don't have an oil that can be harvested and used as a finish.

[Joe Shinall]

Well what's the harm in it? Is it gonna catch fire or melt? I've got 3 coats on this dresser so far and haven't run into any problems and it's mirror finish and glass smooth. Don't see any harm in it so far.

I mean, not being a smart a$$ or anything, but really, I would like to know what's the harm in it?

[Prashun Patel]

I would like to know what's the harm in it?

Exterior varnishes are usually formulated to be softer and ironically less water resistant than interior varnishes. I've used 'spar' varnish on interior pieces before. Granted, it was benches - not bathroom vanities, but it's held up very well. In fact, my wife and kids end up using the benches I make as plant stands. The shellac and interior, gloss varnish ones do tend to show scratches (shellac's the worst, obviously). But the spar varnish bench takes a good scratchy beating and doesn't show the wear.

"Teak oil", at least Watco's, is actually just Danish oil with UV inhibitors added. I think they mean it's supposed to go ON teak, not that it comes FROM teak.

[Scott Holmes]

Joe,

Shawn answered most of the reasons.

Mixing brands is always risky they tend to use different thinners, and additives, etc.

As Shawn said exterior finishes are much softer so your glass smooth finsh is not a hard as it would be if you used interior finish only.

Mixing "danish oil" (most are just oil {usually linseed}, varnish and mineral spirits mixed together) to make an IN-THE-WOOD finish the oil makes it too soft to be a good film finish. Adding a soft varnish just makes it more varnish in the oil/varnish blend.

To build a good hard finish a non-poly interior varnish would be better.

[Joe Shinall]

Gotcha! Thanks for the explanation guys. Wasn't trying to be a smarty pants but I am a numbers man and always need reasoning behind everything.

Now that being said, the dresser was given to my mother and was literally falling apart and was 2 1/4 inches off square and she just wanted to see how good I was at restoring something. So it doesn't have to last forever or hold up to anything except for sitting in her spare bedroom collecting dust.

I do like the finishing technique but I do see what you are saying about not layering up.