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Jeff Willard
04-13-2010, 9:39 PM
Just wondering what people were using as a dunk tank for DNA/LDD treatment? I had been using the bottom of a plastic trashcan, but had no good way to keep the lid on in a windstorm, and then my lid cracked anyway and weather contaminated the contents. Looking around at the BORG, I can't seem to find anything that will accommodate my largest turnings-I'll need about 21". I'd like it to be fairly shallow,12-14" or so, and I need a lid, as it will be outside, uncovered. And I really don't want to put $35.00 into the thing.

Also, any preferences on dish soap for this? I have used Joy successfully in the past, but picked up a load of Palmolive just now as it was the cheapest thing on the shelf. Just wondering if anybody had good reasons to use, or not use, any specific brand. Thanks.

Steve Schlumpf
04-13-2010, 10:03 PM
Jeff - no experience with LDD - but I use the 40 gallon contractor trash bags because they are really thick and hold up for quite a while. I cut the bag in half and only use the bottom portion. I use a large cardboard box and fill about 1/2 of it with shavings. Then place the turning into the plastic bag and push it down into the shavings. I pack the shavings around the turning so there are no air gaps - then pour enough DNA into the bag to cover the turning. Twist the bag closed and use a tie-wrap to secure it. Works great and doesn't break the bank!

Bernie Weishapl
04-13-2010, 10:20 PM
I use a plastic tote from Wally world that works just fine.

Frank Van Atta
04-14-2010, 12:48 AM
The "original" recipe for LDD called for the cheap green stuff from Costco. I've used that and the cheap yellow stuff and the cheap . . . well, you get the idea.

Reed Gray
04-14-2010, 12:56 AM
Actually for the soap, the cheap brown stuff. The colored stuff can color your wood. Costco brand works fine, and so does Joy which I get by the case from a grocery whole sale place. I have two tubs made from 55 gallon food grade barrels which are plastic. Get mine locally from a honey place, and you can get them from beverage making places some times. For the soaking, on thin turned bowls, it makes no difference in stability, cracks, or drying time. The soap does make things a lot easier to sand out.

I keep saying I will do a measured drying test on some twice turned bowls (thick turned), but haven't done that yet.

robo hippy

bob svoboda
04-14-2010, 9:31 AM
I found a 5 gal tub with a sealing lid at our local Ace Hardware for about $10-works great.

Scott Hackler
04-14-2010, 10:00 AM
I use an old shop vac bucket with a plywood lid I made that I put a rubber seal around using a bicycle inner tube tire. For extra protection from evaporation, I also lay a plastic trashbag over the bucket before placing the lid on it and I weight the lid down with a cement block. Works very well for me, but takes a 10 gallon min of Dna to soak anything of size.

Rob Cunningham
04-14-2010, 10:12 AM
For DNA soaking, I use a 5 gallon bucket that WB finish came in. The lid has an o-ring seal that keeps the DNA from evaporating. It does limit the diameter of your turning to @ 10 1/2", but so far it has worked for me. If I start turning larger, I'll go with Steve's method.

Steve Vaughan
04-14-2010, 11:03 AM
Depending on size, and the number of bowls I might rough turn at one time I have used four things, in no particular order: A plastic coffee canister (that the coffee came in) with the top; a few two and a half gallon size ziploc bags; a five gallon bucket and lid from HD (the lid has a rubber gasket seal; and the trashbag method as explained earlier. I put my on the floor in a pile of shavings, but the box would probably be much safer so you don't step on/in it.

Jeff Willard
04-14-2010, 12:38 PM
I just picked up a 17 gal. galvanized tub for $20. This will handle the largest bowls that I could throw at it, provided they aren't more than about 10" deep. I'll just throw a piece of plywood over the top. I think I can live with that. Thanks for all the ideas.