How to remove blade from a sliding saw

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I was given a Chicago Power Tools 41168 sliding saw with no documentation. I went to remove the blade, but I do not see how to lock the blade so that I can remove the bolt holding it in place (and is that clock wise or counter clockwise)?

Also, if you know about this saw, should I able to unlock the arm and raise it?

[John Thompson]

Looks as though the cavalry is hesitant to arrive on this question Anthony with 66 views and no answers. :)

I have never seen a Chicago Tool SCMS therefore have never changed a blade on one but... I would think that it works basically the same as my Hitachi's and the Makita and Delta I used to have. If so... you "should" lock the pin so the arm is down. Then place a block of wood in front (closest to you) of the blade so the corner sits in between a tooth gullet on the blade. At that point hold the arm down with your left arm if you are a righty and use the wrench or socket wrench in your right hand.

Edit.. I see you ask if should be able to un-lock the arm and raise it? Sounds as if it is locked in the down position and won't raise at the moment. If so the answer is definitely you should. Look for a lock pin that inserts and usually on the left side facing. The pin on most saws just pushes in to lock and you pull out to unlock so the saw arm will raise just like a miter saw. That saw may have a slightly different configuration from the ones I have used but there definitely should be a lock down pin or method somewhere to allow the arm to raise fully. Just look carefully as common sense will find it once you know that it will raise.

The arbor blot is likely going to be opposite of a standard right hand thread.. in other words a left hand thread. To get it off turn counter clock-wise. To put it back on you of course turn clock-wise but when you put the blade back on you have to move the block of wood to the rear of blade toward the fence and seat it in a tooth gullet.

If you use a socket wrench which I suggest.. simply turn the the adjuster opposite of where you would to put on a standard right hand thread to get if off and again opposite to put in on. The arbor bolt is a left hand thread if that Chicago is like all others I have seen. Just to be safe.. be gentle as most likely the arbor nut is not on there that tight. You can feel if you are reversing it just from torque most likely.

Good luck...

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Thanks.... I suspected that this might be how to do it, but, was unsure. At least on my hand circular saws, I have a blade lock button. If you need to block the blade on the tools that you mention, then I do not expect to find a blade lock on the cheap Chicago tool.

The arm is locked down. I have not figured out how to unlock it. Not clear that I can unlock it, but, there is a pin that looks like it does exactly that, but, it is stuck in place. Trued to twist it but that simply unscrews the plastic bulb on the end.

I really appreciate your reply. Now I can remove the blade. Will run a few test cuts and then decide if I will purchase a nice blade or simply dump the saw.

[John Thompson]

Thanks.... I suspected that this might be how to do it, but, was unsure. At least on my hand circular saws, I have a blade lock button. If you need to block the blade on the tools that you mention, then I do not expect to find a blade lock on the cheap Chicago tool.

The arm is locked down. I have not figured out how to unlock it. Not clear that I can unlock it, but, there is a pin that looks like it does exactly that, but, it is stuck in place. Trued to twist it but that simply unscrews the plastic bulb on the end.

I really appreciate your reply. Now I can remove the blade. Will run a few test cuts and then decide if I will purchase a nice blade or simply dump the saw.

You're welcome... I can't imagine that the arm will not raise. The lock pin on Hitachi's is simply a chrome plated special bolt that is spring tentioned. You push in to lock and the arm raises slighly to touch it when you release your down grasp. To unlock you put your hand on the arm and press down slightly then pull the spring loaded bolt out.

It's there somewhere I am almost sure but... I haven't seen ever model of SCMS and someone could have designed it to stay down but I very highly doubt it. Those designs from Chicago and HF are usually copies of some name brand and even though quality of build or parts may not be the same level.. they operate similarly IMO.

Go attack the problem as you may have just over-looked something if you are not familar with this type saw.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Go attack the problem as you may have just over-looked something if you are not familar with this type saw.
It sure looks like it will raise, but, I wanted to check on things before I "forced" them as it were. Be much easier to pull the blade if I can raise things a bit. This is a sanity check for me along with admitting that I am mostly clueless about these things.
:o

[John Thompson]

It sure looks like it will raise, but, I wanted to check on things before I "forced" them as it were. Be much easier to pull the blade if I can raise things a bit. This is a sanity check for me along with admitting that I am mostly clueless about these things.
:o

I just used mine a few minutes ago Andrew. May not be the same but... when the arm is down and lockec.. you cannot pull the pin on mine until you lower the arm as I mentioned just a hair. If you don't the weght of the spring loaded arm is putting pressure on the pin and won't allow it to slide out. Just thought I would fire off a quick note that might solve your problem?

Back to changing 20" planer blades.. I'm glad I'm retired and don't have to do those kind of things on week-ends. :)

Good luck....

[roman fedyk]

On the Chicago SCMS I have seen, which is a 12" with laser, you take the bolt that holds the blade off clockwise......Also as indicated by the other poster, you have to push down on the saw to allow the tension to dissipate before pulling the locking pin out. There also is a locking pin to hold the blade from turning, and if I remember correctly it is on the right side behind the handle. It has been a while since I saw it.

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby go check one out, they usually have all of them on display and you can ask. Also, if you go to www.harborfreight.com and look up sliding saws, they do have operator manuals available for free download.

[John Thompson]

On the Chicago SCMS I have seen, which is a 12" with laser, you take the bolt that holds the blade off clockwise......Also as indicated by the other poster, you have to push down on the saw to allow the tension to dissipate before pulling the locking pin out. There also is a locking pin to hold the blade from turning, and if I remember correctly it is on the right side behind the handle. It has been a while since I saw it.

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby go check one out, they usually have all of them on display and you can ask. Also, if you go to www.harborfreight.com (http://www.harborfreight.com) and look up sliding saws, they do have operator manuals available for free download.

Could be clockwise Roman but.. all blades on a miter and SCMS rotate clock-wise. On a table-saw the blade rotates counter-clockwise. I have never seen an arbor nut on either that comes off the same direction as the blade turns but as I stated before.. anything is possible.

Curious to see and I bet he did not lower that arm by hand all the way to release pressure on the lock bolt mechanizm. My lock bolt won't budge unless you do lower it all the way. Just guessing in the case of the Chicago though of course. ;)

Regards...

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Yes, indeed, turn clockwise to loosen... same directions it spins to cut.

Push down to release, that works.

Need to figure out what else I must remove / loosen to remove the blade... Sufficiently tight fit that it catches on things. Hopefully just the blade guard stuff that is there even though the blade guard was not provided with the saw.

Saw is old enough that the documentation is no longer available on the site...

[Alan Schwabacher]

You are right that that saw seems to no longer be on the Harbor Freight website. However, you can look at the other Chicago sliding compound miter saws there, and download the manuals. These have descriptions with picture sequences to show you what needs to be removed and how to do it. One might be sufficiently similar to your saw to be helpful.

[roman fedyk]

Andrew you need to remove the bolt holding the blade guard, and then remove what they call the shoulder bolt located near the center of the blade. Then you can pull the blade guard up and away from the blade. Then you should have enough room to remove the blade.

These saws have left hand threads on them, so that is why you remove the blade clockwise.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Andrew you need to remove the bolt holding the blade guard, and then remove what they call the shoulder bolt located near the center of the blade. Then you can pull the blade guard up and away from the blade. Then you should have enough room to remove the blade.

These saws have left hand threads on them, so that is why you remove the blade clockwise.

I believe you are correct. There are two bolts there. I pulled one of them, but the other was a different size and then I was watching a 2 year old for a few hours... Will see if I can pull this bad boy Wednesday...

[John Thompson]

Andrew you need to remove the bolt holding the blade guard, and then remove what they call the shoulder bolt located near the center of the blade. Then you can pull the blade guard up and away from the blade. Then you should have enough room to remove the blade.

These saws have left hand threads on them, so that is why you remove the blade clockwise.

You are indeed right Roman. I went back and saw I recommend turning counter-clockwise to get it off but.. I got the part right about putting the block in front of the blade to catch the teeth. With the block in front the bolt has to turn clock-wise for the teeth to catch. Simply a case of an old man getting confused with too much thinking and reversing the call in-correctly. Don't get old and don't get in a hurry! :)

So.. my apology for questioning the fact you stated clockwise to remove as indeed my Hitachi turns clockwise to remove also therefore the stop block has to be in front of the blade. In other words... Duh on my part! :o

Good to see you finally up and running on this saw Andrew.

[roman fedyk]

No problem, John, I get confused all the time. I have so much equipment, and none of it operates the same so I am always trying to remember how to make things work, without killing myself....

[Jim Heffner]

Andrew, I think the best thing to do is (1) unplug the saw, (2) lock the saw
carriage down and as far forward as it will go, (3)if no spindle lock is provided on the saw, use a medium or large sized wooden hand screw clamp to firmly
hold the blade and then remove the arbor nut , probably a left hand threaded
nut and then remove it and then the blade.