Shaper Table, Bits and splinters..questions

[Johnnyy Johnson]

This weekend I was running some oak through my shaper table. On the stiles I was getting excessive tear out and splinters. I don’t mean at the end of the cut where a backer board is used, but on the nose of the stile where the tongue of the panel would slip in.I tried several things to correct this including using different bits. My question is, at 10K RPM is this to slow to make a smooth cut. I tried Freud, Sommerfeld and Rockler bits all with the same result. Feed rate slow and fast by push block and slow and fast with my stock feeder. I tried making the cut in two passes also. I guess I could have gotten a hold of a screwed up board, but it must be the speed. What method does the production shops use to cut the stiles?

[John M. Smith]

Are you using router bits or shaper cutters. Shaper cutters are larger so the cutter exits the wwod at a better angle. Also 10000 rpm is too slow for router bits.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Thanks John..I was afraid that would be the case. Can you or other members suggest a source of cutters?

Thanks
JJ

[Joe Chritz]

You can get decent results with 1/2" shank router bits for rails/stiles. I take "where the panel slips in" to mean the stick cut or long profile.

Shaper cutters will reduce that partly because of increase cutting speed (a larger cutter moves faster at the tooth) and partly from cutting geometry. It won't get rid of it completely.

Stay with a very shallow first cut and a shallow final cut or what I do often since I lost my powerfeed and can't climb cut anymore is to rip the pieces about 1/16th wide, profile then rip the profile to final width. One pass through the shaper at that point and no chip out.

However, to answer your original question I have shaper cutters from MLCS (both regular and Katana) as well as Grizzly and Freud. If you do a lot of panel door work Freud has an insert cutter that is very good and a good value.

Joe

[Rod Sheridan]

Since you have a feeder have you tried climb cutting?

Regards, Rod.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Rod...I've not got that far along yet. I'm going to look into getting the right cutter and go from there. I've looked online at the Freud RS 1000 & 2000 for starters. Before I ditch the Idea of using router bits on a shaper I'm going to try what was recommended above and make a very shallow first cut and see if that helps. If things work out I will swap to the cutters but I need to know much more about them before spending the money for them.

[Jeff Monson]

Would be nice to hear from some owners of the rs2000 system, I read that they require alot of shimming and setup to get the profiles to match?

On the flipside, I ordered a rail and stile cutter set from amana, they cut very well, but in oak I still have a little chipout once in awhile on the profile cut.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Jeff..I read two reviews on RS-1000 on amazon.com. One was great and the other a 2 star. They were a couple years old. I have searched for reviews here with no luck. I plan to buy a set for rails and stiles, but dont know which one to get. Also, I would like one that can have the blades swapped out. Not sure which is better, fixed or swappable.

Sure would like to start a review thread on the cutters for 3/4" spindles.

[John M. Smith]

I prefer Freeborn cutters. I get them with the radius edge option. That puts a small radius on the edges that you are having trouble with so you don't see any chipout.

[Mark Rakestraw]

I'm with Rod on this one....if you have a power feeder then climb cut them. Even with shaper cutters I find I have to climb cut stiles to get good results.
Mark