Things I would like Lee Valley (or someone) to make.

[Caspar Hauser]

I should like to start with;

A compressed air hose with no memory (there is a queue),

a core box plane (am I the only one who could use one?),

the definitive coping saw,

Perhaps others may have an idea or two they might be willing to share?

[Eric Brown]

Love to see someone make some treadle machines or DIY kits.

Also like to see some premium chisels made in wider sizes (2").

Heck, I'm still waiting for LV to bring out more "Premium" planes.
It's been almost a year and a half since the first, and only one.

And what about the Tucker vice? Last I heard they were looking for a cheaper supplier/builder. (Offshore?)

Larger spoon bits.

Offset handle for the micro-plane.

A new and improved version of Stanleys 444 dovetail plane.

More curved spokeshaves with different curves.

Adjustable plane fences like Stanley 386 (St James Bay does make a nice looking one in bronze currently)

Well, that's a start anyway.
Eric

[Eugenio Musto]

These my whishes:
- more Veritas saw, expecially carcass,tenon and panel ones
- +1 for premium chisel in wider sizes(what's about some new Veritas chisels with bubinga handle like the Ashley Iles).
- A Veritas or Lie Nielsen Combination plane(or large plow plane) that costs less then the Clifton one.
-A Bubinga handle screwdriver to use with the lateral screws of the bevel up planes.

[James Taglienti]

The definitive coping saw would be very nice.
I would like to see them make a stop-chamfer plane with a beading attachment

Also an infill smoother... I know they can do it

[John Coloccia]

I want them to make some decent bow saws, and then produce a turning blade so I can cut dovetails like Klausz. Seriously.

[Chen-Tin Tsai]

I would definitely get on board with that air hose with no memory!

What's a core box plane?

[Bruce Haugen]

has already been identified. David Barnett turned us on to this one (http://store.knewconcepts.com/je5prhasaw.html) on WC.

[Dale Sautter]

M2 or M3 HSS plane irons like the Aussies use... would work great for woodies in general, and beautifully for a low angle miter plane for my shooting board. I've seen a couple in Oz online (and only like 1/8" thick), but nothing here in the states. Anyone have a source, here in the States?

[Rob Lee]

Hi -

The good news is.... some of those things are coming...!:D

The bad news is.... some aren't. :(

Cheers -

Rob

[Dale Sautter]

Hi -

The good news is.... some of those things are coming...!:D

The bad news is.... some aren't. :(

Cheers -

Rob

Hi Rob, I have one your A2 blades here (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=60009&cat=1,41182,43698&ap=1)... works great @30°, but becomes brittle at less than that. Jatoba seems to just eat A2... any chance a M2 version of the same irons might be on the "some are" list?

*crosses fingers and hoping*

[Chuck Nickerson]

M2 or M3 HSS plane irons like the Aussies use... would work great for woodies in general, and beautifully for a low angle miter plane for my shooting board. I've seen a couple in Oz online (and only like 1/8" thick), but nothing here in the states. Anyone have a source, here in the States?

Dale - A year or so ago, Craftsman Studio in San Diego was carrying M2 plane blades. They weren't tagged as such on the higher level pages. I think they were identified by their maker. Academy?

Chuck

[Zach England]

Are there any modern makers of compass planes?

[Rob Lee]

(snip)... any chance a M2 version of the same irons might be on the "some are" list?

*crosses fingers and hoping*

Hi Dale -

I'm still on the fence with respect to M2. I really don't want to advocate high speed steels as a general option for the majority of woodworkers as it would require a susbstantial change in sharpening practice for many (not just equipment).

We have carried HSS blades in the past - and they proved to be wildly unpopular.

One never knows though....

Cheers -

Rob

[Rob Young]

Are there any modern makers of compass planes?

I believe Kunz is making them assuming you mean something like the Stanley 113

Around $260-ish

Muji, I think, offers some rosewood bodied compass planes. There are probably others with curve bottom woodies (sounds a little dirty) for the offing.

[Eugenio Musto]

Hi -

The good news is.... some of those things are coming...!:D

The bad news is.... some aren't. :(

Cheers -

Rob

A new LV tool is always a good news.A LV tool that you desire is a better news!! :D

[Rob Lee]

A new LV tool is always a good news.A LV tool that you desire is a better news!! :D


Eugenio -

There are more on your list that are coming, than on anyone else's list...

I think you're 3 for 4 ....:rolleyes: ... eventually...

Cheers -

Rob

[george wilson]

I have made several spindles and brass bearings for treadle or great wheel lathes. The high price of brass might make them a little high,plus the labor.

How bad do you want them? The easiest type for me to make is a steel spindle that runs through a front and rear pair of split brass blocks. The brass blocks have bolts going down each side,into the wood of the headstock. They can be tightened down some to eliminate wear. I made that type for the cabinet maker's shop in Williamsburg for their great wheel lathe.

Another type is 1 bearing at the front with a tapered hole. The rear end of the spindle has a center point in it,and a threaded steel screw bearing against it. This forces the spindle forward into the tapered hole of the front bearing. It is much more trouble to make,plus,you have to have a 3/4" coarse tap to thread a hole through your back poppet. The front bearing of this type spindle is tool steel. It is the type I made for the treadle lathe currently in the gunsmith/foundry shop. It probably would be pretty expensive. Oh,I forgot the wooden pulley forced onto the spindle. Both were 1" X 8 threads,no hole through the spindle on these early type spindles.

[Steve Friedman]

What about bringing back something that you no longer carry - the red metal Veritas toolbox trays (1", 2", 3")?

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43326&p=46037

Steve

[Sam Takeuchi]

As far as M2 blade goes, I don't think it'll be a regular replacement blade for most people. It has its place, especially on really hard or silica loaded wood, it can really bulldoze through materials that will otherwise obliterate O1 or A2 blade. I have one and I use it to overcome those conditions, but for the rest of planing, I use O1, A2 and laminated blue steel blade.

It's really tough to sharpen it. That's why it's durable and last long, but it resists wear on stone/abrasive, too. If you hollow grind and remove as much metal as possible on bevel, you may be able to achieve relatively efficient sharpening, but without that and trying to sharpen full bevel every time will be a dreadful task real quick.

It seems M2 is very picky with sharpening mediums. I don't know about the rest of you, but I've had success and failure trying to find the right sharpening medium for this particular steel. But the question is, would I want to have bunch of different setup for every steel I have. I don't. Scary sharp worked well, but I don't use scary sharp and I'm not about to have a scary sharp station just for this blade. Shapton Pro works well with all of my O1 and A2 blades and Pro #12000 never disappointed me...except I don't feel it's a good match for M2. It puts good edge, but it just doesn't seem as sharp as it could be.

I think people's experience will vary, but would most people want to experiment and try different setup, or go through all this just for a plane blade? It's a lot to be asked from a plane blade. When I ordered Paul Williams M2 blade, I thought it was expensive, but now I consider it that if you are willing to pay that much (think nearly twice more expensive than a Hock blade) for a blade, you should be determined to figure a way to sharpen it. I can imagine a lot of people giving up on them due to lack of proper or good sharpening equipments, wrong technique or whatever. I honestly doubt it'll ever achieve the kind of popularity A2 or O1 have achieved. It's not as...accommodating as those steels.

If you ever happen to use micro bevel without hollow grind, trying to grind off micro bevel is a work by itself on M2.

[David Weaver]

As far as M2 blade goes, I don't think it'll be a regular replacement blade for most people. It has its place, especially on really hard or silica loaded wood, it can really bulldoze through materials that will otherwise obliterate O1 or A2 blade. I have one and I use it to overcome those conditions, but for the rest of planing, I use O1, A2 and laminated blue steel blade.

It's really tough to sharpen it. That's why it's durable and last long, but it resists wear on stone/abrasive, too. If you hollow grind and remove as much metal as possible on bevel, you may be able to achieve relatively efficient sharpening, but without that and trying to sharpen full bevel every time will be a dreadful task real quick.

It seems M2 is very picky with sharpening mediums. I don't know about the rest of you, but I've had success and failure trying to find the right sharpening medium for this particular steel. But the question is, would I want to have bunch of different setup for every steel I have. I don't. Scary sharp worked well, but I don't use scary sharp and I'm not about to have a scary sharp station just for this blade. Shapton Pro works well with all of my O1 and A2 blades and Pro #12000 never disappointed me...except I don't feel it's a good match for M2. It puts good edge, but it just doesn't seem as sharp as it could be.

I think people's experience will vary, but would most people want to experiment and try different setup, or go through all this just for a plane blade? It's a lot to be asked from a plane blade. When I ordered Paul Williams M2 blade, I thought it was expensive, but now I consider it that if you are willing to pay that much (think nearly twice more expensive than a Hock blade) for a blade, you should be determined to figure a way to sharpen it. I can imagine a lot of people giving up on them due to lack of proper or good sharpening equipments, wrong technique or whatever. I honestly doubt it'll ever achieve the kind of popularity A2 or O1 have achieved. It's not as...accommodating as those steels.

If you ever happen to use micro bevel without hollow grind, trying to grind off micro bevel is a work by itself on M2.

There are several things that work really well for M2. I use a shapton pro 15k for a final step, but as you say, it doesn't get as keen as easy as a2 and O1. The key is using it only for the final microbevel.

If that isn't keen enough, on the cheap side, the LV green stuff on a MDF stop works well. I don't know which is more abrasive - mdf or the green stuff, but the green stuff is fine on M2.

The most ideal sharpening medium for M2 is diamonds, at least in my experience. I don't generally sharpen with small diamonds, so I don't have them around, but doing most of the grinding with a tormek and then just microbeveling makes them very tolerable to sharpen.

Polishing the entire bevel, as you say, is a torture test. I think most people would give up before they had a sharp edge.

A soft "kitayama" polish stone also works fine on them, which means that anything al-ox abrasive should be OK. When they do fail, they fail differently than a high carbon steel iron, but it takes a while to make them fail, and it is especially hard to do material damage to the edge with regular planing (like ramming into knots or backwards with a thick shaving into abrasive woods, etc).

[Chris Kennedy]

There are plenty of woodworking tools I want Veritas to make, but the thing I want is a non-woodworking tool. If you have ever used those horrible chalkboard compasses, they are a horrendous thing to use. I would like Veritas to adapt one of their larger compasses or trammels so that it can effectively used on a chalkboard.

I actually asked Veritas. It was the nicest rejection letter I ever received.

Cheers,

Chris

[bridger berdel]

as a working woodworker, not a hobbyist, I'd like to see the full line of planes with all of the excellent engineering and useful features... but if bubinga handles are going to jack up the price give me the option of beech handles, or probably maple, being that LV is Canadian after all.

the plane collectors are killing me. I can't afford to buy most of the interesting planes I want. LV is slowly adding some of them into their lineup, which is great, and better yet they are getting updated with modern metallurgy and precision manufacturing, but the leisure woodworkers are demanding luxury versions (and have the money to pay for them) and so pricing me out of that source too.

I know that working handtool woodworkers are a minority, but there are some of us out here and we need tools too.

[David Gendron]

+1 for bridger comment. I would add that using local wood is a plus, and keep the money in the country!!

[David Weaver]

I can't think that bubinga adds more than $10 to the cost of a plane (in terms incremental cost over plain hardwood). Machining and keeping the lights on probably adds a lot more.

Cheapest way to get a plane you want as a working woodworker (except probably for bevel up) is to buy old woodies, steal their irons and make laminated/krenov planes out of scrap wood. $10 or so per plane. That's a bit on the excessive side in terms of doing work to save money, though.

What's wrong with vintage stanley bench planes if cost is an issue?

[Richard Niemiec]

How about a newly designed chipbreaker?

[Larry Marshall]

Love to see someone make some treadle machines or DIY kits.



CME makes a dandy treadle lathe kit. Tom Fidgen bought one and reports on it here:

http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/cme-handworks-inc.html

Cheers --- Larry

[Sam Takeuchi]

Speaking of cap iron, I would buy a bevel down plane that doesn't require cap iron. I don't know how but If it can engage yoke and lateral adjuster without cap iron, and blade is thick (ideally laminated for my personal liking), that would be good. Yes I know about how it breaks chip etc. No I haven't felt it makes convincing difference in realistic use (and yes I also have read the 'chip breaker study' which proves it makes difference when and if it is set humanly near impossible distance from the cutting edge). In the same line of thought, if Veritas offered line of laminated replacement blades for LA/BU planes, with various edge steel, I would be ecstatic, too. I'm a huge fan of laminated blade for good balance of hard edge and ease of sharpening, and if there was laminated blue steel blade for Veritas LA/BU plane, I'm content and satisfied for next couple of decades...as far as blade need is concerned.

[Rob Lee]

What about bringing back something that you no longer carry - the red metal Veritas toolbox trays (1", 2", 3")?

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43326&p=46037

Steve

Hi Steve -

They'll be back soon ... I think they're produced already....!

Cheers -

Rob

[Dale Sautter]

Hi Dale -

One never knows though....


Ok, I understand... it never hurts to ask... :)

[Mark Wyatt]

Since we are wishing:
I would love to see a #2 size veritas bench plane. Also, full iron versions of the 3 spokeshaves (don't like the wood handles).

How about a Lee Valley "frequent buyer club?"

Oh, and a magic button on the website that I can press to make everything half the price!

[James Scheffler]

Since we are wishing:
Oh, and a magic button on the website that I can press to make everything half the price!

For a while I was playing the megamillions lottery with a group of people from work. I kept fantasizing that there would be a "Buy One of Everything" button on the Lee Valley web site. :D

[harry strasil]

There used to be a company in Kansas City that was reproducing some foot powered wwing machines cast in aluminum, but memory fails me as to the name.

[Jonathan McCullough]

I'd like to see a Miller's Falls #1 "cigar" type spokeshave. I think it's the kind of thing that could be improved with Veritas/Lee Valley's characteristic tinkering and improvements.

[harry strasil]

I made one of those cigar shaves for myself, before I ever saw a real one, the way I made it there is no flat on the cutting edge. and it will shave a smaller diameter.

[george wilson]

I have a cigar shave.

[george wilson]

That CME treadle lathe certainly has a very lightweight flywheel. The one we made-a direct copy of an original in the Science Museum,london,was a LOT heavier. You need inertia to keep the lathe going with much of a cut. We made the flywheel 5" thick and about 24" in diameter,all out of oak. The whole lathe was red oak. Plus,the flywheel had a large forged iron cross on it with a square hole for the crankshaft,and 4 long,hand forged carriage type bolts 1/2" thick. Those things,and the heavy forged crank,all add up to a powerful lathe that could turn metal,though not any thing but smallish parts in metal. It was definitely a pretty powerful wood lathe,too.

[Leigh Betsch]

How about a newly designed chipbreaker?
Now that's funny. Thanks for the levity. The other thread was getting way to serious.;)

[Leigh Betsch]

How about a good ol North American hollow back chisel. Like the Japanese chisels, but solid A2. So I can flatten the back easier and not feel guilty for quiting early!

[Jim Koepke]

That's a bit on the excessive side in terms of doing work to save money, though.

What's wrong with vintage stanley bench planes if cost is an issue?

Your statement in the line above your question may be the answer.

I have an amazing accumulation of old Stanley bench planes that seem to only get better as they get a little tuning here and there.

Of course, if cost is an issue, one should delve a bit deeper into the Neander arts and learn the art of tool tuning and restoration. There are a lot of old tools that would love nothing more than to be put back to work.

jim

[bridger berdel]

I can't think that bubinga adds more than $10 to the cost of a plane (in terms incremental cost over plain hardwood). Machining and keeping the lights on probably adds a lot more.

Cheapest way to get a plane you want as a working woodworker (except probably for bevel up) is to buy old woodies, steal their irons and make laminated/krenov planes out of scrap wood. $10 or so per plane. That's a bit on the excessive side in terms of doing work to save money, though.

What's wrong with vintage stanley bench planes if cost is an issue?


for the single digit number stanley bench planes, buying vintage users and fettling them is fine. it's when you get to the more interesting planes that things get difficult. I bought the LV medium shoulder plane because I couldn't find an equivalent stanley quick enough in good enough shape to get the job I needed it for done. having a source for quality tools with fast return time and good customer support is a gosdend. having that source be an aggressive innovator is better yet.

I'd love to see veritas come up with a functional equivalent to a set of hollows and rounds. or a compass plane. or an adjustable travisher.

it's not just about bubinga handles. it's about keeping sight of function and making good tools available to working woodworkers of modest means. I think it's great that the fancy versions are available- I can lust after them in the catalogs and perhaps purchase a few. but what I need is tools that get the job done efficiently and cost effectively.

[Caspar Hauser]

for the single digit number stanley bench planes, buying vintage users and fettling them is fine. it's when you get to the more interesting planes that things get difficult. I bought the LV medium shoulder plane because I couldn't find an equivalent stanley quick enough in good enough shape to get the job I needed it for done. having a source for quality tools with fast return time and good customer support is a gosdend. having that source be an aggressive innovator is better yet.

I'd love to see veritas come up with a functional equivalent to a set of hollows and rounds. or a compass plane. or an adjustable travisher.

it's not just about bubinga handles. it's about keeping sight of function and making good tools available to working woodworkers of modest means. I think it's great that the fancy versions are available- I can lust after them in the catalogs and perhaps purchase a few. but what I need is tools that get the job done efficiently and cost effectively.

Well said.

[Jonathan McCullough]

I made one of those cigar shaves for myself, before I ever saw a real one, the way I made it there is no flat on the cutting edge. and it will shave a smaller diameter.

Could we have a picture Harry? I was thinking about doing the same with some drill rod and my old Atlas. Your shopmades (I'm thinking of the saw tooth punch) are always instructive.

[Rick Erickson]

Hey, how about a remake of a Langdon Acme mitre box (a nice small one). Christopher Schwarz brought one to a class I was taking and it was a big hit. I think it was a 16 1/2. It worked extremely well.

[Rob Lee]

as a working woodworker, not a hobbyist, I'd like to see the full line of planes with all of the excellent engineering and useful features... but if bubinga handles are going to jack up the price give me the option of beech handles, or probably maple, (snip)

Hi Bridger -

The Bubinga handles are far less expensive than maple (our first handles were maple). I'm all for less expensive too...!

Cheers -

Rob

[Rob Lee]

I'd like to see a Miller's Falls #1 "cigar" type spokeshave. I think it's the kind of thing that could be improved with Veritas/Lee Valley's characteristic tinkering and improvements.

Hi Johnathan -

Buy the Miller's Falls - they got the design right. At best - these are very finicky shaves to use.

We've built several variants, and keep coming back to the MF #1. We haven't proceeded with production, as it's my opinion that too many peole would buy them, and be unhappy with the performance.

Cheers -

Rob

[Eugenio Musto]

Eugenio -

There are more on your list that are coming, than on anyone else's list...

I think you're 3 for 4 ....:rolleyes: ... eventually...

Cheers -

Rob

These are News:D!

[David Weaver]

for the single digit number stanley bench planes, buying vintage users and fettling them is fine. it's when you get to the more interesting planes that things get difficult. I bought the LV medium shoulder plane because I couldn't find an equivalent stanley quick enough in good enough shape to get the job I needed it for done. having a source for quality tools with fast return time and good customer support is a gosdend. having that source be an aggressive innovator is better yet.

I'd love to see veritas come up with a functional equivalent to a set of hollows and rounds. or a compass plane. or an adjustable travisher.

it's not just about bubinga handles. it's about keeping sight of function and making good tools available to working woodworkers of modest means. I think it's great that the fancy versions are available- I can lust after them in the catalogs and perhaps purchase a few. but what I need is tools that get the job done efficiently and cost effectively.

I can only think that they could absolutely minimize the machining on their planes (not the shoulder plane, of course, but maybe the bench planes) to make them cheaper.

Maybe make nothing on them machined other than the bed and the sole, but some of them are already close to that.

I think it's probably just not possible to make accurate tools much cheaper than they do in the days of huge taxation, compliance and employee benefits costs. That overhead is still there no matter the price level, and spending less on the plane makes the balance of keeping the lights on and paying the fixed costs too high a % of the plane cost.

I've got no clue on shoulder planes and how to get them cheap other than just getting one small one and substituting a reasonable old beech rabbet plane for most things. I paid asking price for the two shoulder planes I have, but as I get more moulding planes I use the shoulder planes less and less. I can usually find a good beech rabbet plane, skew or straight, for about $15 down here.

>>I'd love to see veritas come up with a functional equivalent to a set of hollows and rounds.<<

Wouldn't we all. Since Larry Williams released a video pretty much giving up the entire bag of secrets, it seems like it's a better idea to make them, but even making them isn't that cheap if you want to make an entire half set.

[harry strasil]

After I ended up with a genuine factory made cigar shave, I realized why the one I made was so easy use. The original has to be sharpened with a flat on the outside radius of the cutter, while mine is sharpened on the inside radius, and has no external flat. All I did was machine the center of the body so the outside of the cutter and the main body are the same diameter.

[john davey]

Second this. I would buy one in a heartbeat :)



Hey, how about a remake of a Langdon Acme mitre box (a nice small one). Christopher Schwarz brought one to a class I was taking and it was a big hit. I think it was a 16 1/2. It worked extremely well.

[James Taglienti]

So i guess I'm the only one who would like to see a stop chamfer plane with beader. Can you guys over at Lee Valley make me just one, number it 1/1, and all sign it ? Also I'd like to keep it under $300. :eek:

[michael craigdallie]

rob,

what are the chances the tucker vise will be back in the near future?

cheers,
M

[Rob Lee]

rob,

what are the chances the tucker vise will be back in the near future?

cheers,
M

Hi Michael -

Depends on what you mean by "near"...

Tooling alone would be at least 12-18 months from pulling the trigger...

It's a really big investment too. Sitting behind each new tool that "pops" out, is hundreds of hours of design, tens (or hundreds) of thousands of dollars in tooling, and the raw material for at least a year's worth of sales. We have to prioritize our development schedule to keep our capital working, and to generate cash flow to bootstrap the next batch of new products. It's a lot more difficult than it looks.... and makes for careful choices....

Cheers -

Rob

[Rob Lee]

So i guess I'm the only one who would like to see a stop chamfer plane with beader. Can you guys over at Lee Valley make me just one, number it 1/1, and all sign it ? Also I'd like to keep it under $300. :eek:

Hi James -

Yes we can......


... but no, we won't ...:rolleyes::D

Cheers -

Rob

[bridger berdel]

After I ended up with a genuine factory made cigar shave, I realized why the one I made was so easy use. The original has to be sharpened with a flat on the outside radius of the cutter, while mine is sharpened on the inside radius, and has no external flat. All I did was machine the center of the body so the outside of the cutter and the main body are the same diameter.


how about some pictures?

[bridger berdel]

Hi Bridger -

The Bubinga handles are far less expensive than maple (our first handles were maple). I'm all for less expensive too...!

Cheers -

Rob

that says something- I'm not sure just what- about global finance, or manufacturing, or forestry, or something. handles made from the wood in your own back yard cost more that ones of wood from halfway around the world?

what's your take on the reasons for this?

[Brian Ashton]

that says something- I'm not sure just what- about global finance, or manufacturing, or forestry, or something. handles made from the wood in your own back yard cost more that ones of wood from halfway around the world?

what's your take on the reasons for this?

Some years back I once worked for a shop on the wet (west) coast of Canada where we made high (very high) end joinery. The price of Western Red Cedar got so high that we found it was cheaper to buy purple heart for the window and door frames. Apparently it has the same anti fungal properties as Red Cedar... Ironic that it was cheaper to buy wood from Mexico than it was from our own back yard...

[Rob Lee]

that says something- I'm not sure just what- about global finance, or manufacturing, or forestry, or something. handles made from the wood in your own back yard cost more that ones of wood from halfway around the world?

what's your take on the reasons for this?

Hi Bridger -

Machinability, and appearance.

Natural maple handles just didn't look good. Maple was a pig to stain evenly, and was just not as machinable. Higher defect rates, and less desirable for consumers...

Cheers -

Rob

[David Weaver]

Doesn't bubinga come from the third world, too?

There are some awfully nice pallets of exotic wood that come through peebay for a dollar a board foot or so - prices that wouldn't happen in the US if someone had to find it, mill it and dry it.

I think it's a fine choice of cost / appearance / durability.

What would I like to see? A 20 degree bed BUS plane with the tote tilted forward five degrees or a little more and a 45 degree design of the same thing with the frog machined directly into the body and the adjustable mouth - single thick iron still, bevel down instead of bevel up.

[harry strasil]

how about some pictures?

I am assuming this is a MF's Cigar shave, it has no name on it, and a previous owner has soldered a brass insert into it as the blade was worn down so much that the mouth opening became too large. And the holding screws would not be usable anymore.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/cigarshave001.jpg


This shows the blade on my version.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/cigarshave002.jpg

And this is the adjustable mouth opening I came up with.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/cigarshave003.jpg

If Rob Lee wants to use my design, I am sure we can work out some kind of arrangement.

Jr.

[Brian Dormer]

How about a proper striking knife - like:

http://adamcherubini.com/Layout.html

Granted - the "modern" knives are good. But I'll bet that LV can take the classic and bring it into the 21st century as a "modern classic".

bd

[Rob Lee]

How about a proper striking knife - like:

http://adamcherubini.com/Layout.html

Granted - the "modern" knives are good. But I'll bet that LV can take the classic and bring it into the 21st century as a "modern classic".

bd


Ouch.

We used to sell a British version of that design - but with a chevron tip - and wooden scales...

It should almost be called a Poking Knife, instead of a striking knife.... handle one long enough, and the end you're not using is guaranteed to poke you somewhere....:D

Cheers -

Rob

[george wilson]

I think I have that old knife,bought from Wood Craft in the 60's. Awl blade on 1 end,knife on the other,rosewood handles ?

[Rob Lee]

I think I have that old knife,bought from Wood Craft in the 60's. Awl blade on 1 end,knife on the other,rosewood handles ?

Probably the same one... Made by WH Clay, 5"-6" in length.....in later years, the reddish brown lacquer was sometimes oversprayed onto the blades....

[David Weaver]

How about a proper striking knife - like:

http://adamcherubini.com/Layout.html

Granted - the "modern" knives are good. But I'll bet that LV can take the classic and bring it into the 21st century as a "modern classic".

bd

With a hacksaw, a belt sander, a file and a torch, anyone should be able to make one of those out of O1 stock in less than an hour. It's an option if you want to see it sold at LV's prices.

I'm sure adam makes them old school, and he's gotta be paid for his time if he's going to do it.

But you can do it on your own time and do a respectable job on the first try - certainly something nice enough to use.

1/8" O1 bar stock from mcmaster carr is one of the handiest consumables to have around the shop.

[Kevin Adams]

Rob, just to tag on here, now that you offer O-1 on your new skew block plane, any chance it will be offered soon on the skewed rebate? I'm ready when you are!

Thanks.
Kevin

P.S. And you may not remember, but thanks to you, I have what I think was the "last" Tucker in my shop right now. What a great vice that is!

[Rob Lee]

Rob, just to tag on here, now that you offer O-1 on your new skew block plane, any chance it will be offered soon on the skewed rebate? I'm ready when you are!

Thanks.
Kevin

P.S. And you may not remember, but thanks to you, I have what I think was the "last" Tucker in my shop right now. What a great vice that is!

Hi Kevin -

Will have to check that for you . there's no reason we won't (eventually!) have 'em... just takes time to get into the queue...

Tucker vise - did you see what they go for on eBay?? Glad to hear you're using it... !

Cheers -

Rob

[Thomas Nye]

I too would like to see:

A DIY Treadle Lathe kits or plans

A redo of the stanley 444 ( something that is not over a grand )

I have several stanley 55's, a redo of that would be cool

Perhaps LN could remake the stanley 278, I love mine.

I also love my stanley 77, I would love to see a newer version of that !!!

I am sure I can come up with many more !

So Many Toys To Drewl Over !!!

[Caspar Hauser]

.. so no chance of the air hose then?

[David Cockey]

How about a proper striking knife - like:

http://adamcherubini.com/Layout.html

Granted - the "modern" knives are good. But I'll bet that LV can take the classic and bring it into the 21st century as a "modern classic".

bd

Adam had an article in Popular Woodworking about making a knife like that starting with an inexpensive spade bit. Grind the ends to the appropriate shapes.

[harry strasil]

My Marking knives made from old saw blades, the one on the bottom gets used the most, both are only sharpened from one side.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/markingknives2.jpg

[george wilson]

My knife is similar to Harry's knife on the left.

[Trevor Walsh]

A+ on the #444

[Tom Winship]

If no one has said it, a reasonably priced saw sharpening vise.

[Marv Werner]

Tom,

What do you consider "reasonable"?

Have you checked out TFWW? They have a pretty good one for $120 plus shipping cost. They came out with it last year. People I've talked to who bought one really like it. It has 14" jaws so you only have to move your saw blade once per pass. If I didn't already have a good vise, I think I'd get one, then paint it John Deere green. :D

Marv

[Marv Werner]

Hi David, how ya do'n? Haven't seen you in awhile. :)

Marv

[Marv Werner]

Tom,

Here's a good example of a DIY wooden vise... Money wise, this might be the way to go for you.

I haven't test this link, so don't know if it will work. Let me know if it doesn't and i'll try something else.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/Disston_Small_Tenon_Saw_After_2.jpg

[Rick Markham]

Last time I responded to an identical thread to this Rob Lee made me buy a basically new Record Compass plane at a great price... I'm gonna bite my tongue on this one... I'm trying to save for a lathe :D

A Lee Valley lathe to compete with Oneway and Robust... Ugh... I better not ask :D

[David Martino]

Marv, That's a nice looking design for a wood vise. The cam clamps look very slick, do you find they hold tight enough or do you have to fuss with it?

[Pedder Petersen]

Tom,

What do you consider "reasonable"?

Have you checked out TFWW? They have a pretty good one for $120 plus shipping cost. They came out with it last year. People I've talked to who bought one really like it. It has 14" jaws so you only have to move your saw blade once per pass. If I didn't already have a good vise, I think I'd get one, then paint it John Deere green. :D

Marv

Hi Marv,

I have one and is really worth the 120$. The only thing it could be painted (black) to reduce reflections.:rolleyes:

Cheers
Pedder

[Marv Werner]

Hi David,

I didn't make the vice, Dominic Greco made it. I emailed him and told him I had posted a picture of his vise here. Was hoping he might drop in and talk about it. Not to criticize his design in any way, but I think I would give some thought to a single clamping lever mechanism using a small wheel or ball bearing with cam action.

The cam locks he used can be adjusted by screwing them in and out for more or less clamping force. That's a very handy feature to compensate for wear and movement of the wood, should that occur.

I use a large, all metal vise with 28" jaws that has a single lever with a bearing that applies pressure against an adjustable steel pad. Some of these design techniques could be incorporated into the design of a wooden vise.

Marv

[Dominic Greco]

Marv, That's a nice looking design for a wood vise. The cam clamps look very slick, do you find they hold tight enough or do you have to fuss with it?

They actually work pretty well. I've been using it quite a bit since I built it a year ago. The cam clamps exert a lot of force for their size. I recently added leather to the jaw faces to help them grip the saw plate better. An added benefit is that they reduce (not eliminate!) the noise by cutting back on the vibrations from filing.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z287/DominicGreco/Disston_Small_Tenon_Saw_After_2.jpg

If you want some more details that saw vise is featured in an article I wrote which is hosted at Wood Central
Shop Built Saw Vise (http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=newarticles&file=articles_925.shtml)

At the end of the article is a PDF that details the design of the saw vise.

[Marv Werner]

Thanks Dominic for dropping by. That is a very good tutorial you did over on WoodCentral. Couldn't ask for anything better. If that doesn't encourage people to build their own saw vise, nothing will. Even though I have a good vise, I'm even inspired to make a wooden one. In place of a piano hinge at the bottom, I think I'd use a piece of thin spring steel that would act as a hinge and also open the jaws when the clamps are released.

Thanks again,:)

Marv

[Tony Zaffuto]

To anyone is the PA area, if you have time to spare tomorrow (Friday) and Saturday, Rob Lee is usually at the Brown/Fine Tool Journal tool sale and auction in Harrisburg. Speak to the man personally about what you want him to make (personally, I'm going to ask him what happed to the Sens the other night when they played the Penquins!!!).

To Dom: when you going into saw re-toothing/sharpening business?

[Brian Vaughn]

Dominic,

That's a great and timely article, as I'm getting ready to start on my first saw sharpening, and didn't want to spend the money on a vise just yet. I had contemplated how to make a similar vise, and I confess, I was just going to attach some runners to a pair of bar clamps and have a go like that. This is a much more elegant solution, and I'm looking forward to having a new toy to play with ;)

[David Martino]

Dominic, thanks that's a great tutorial, I'm sure I'll steal plenty from it whenever I get around to the Saw Sharpening Slope. :rolleyes:

Marv, that's some serious toolage, never seen one like it. And made by the company that used to give Wiley Coyote so much trouble...! Thanks for posting,

Dave

[David Weaver]

things i'd like lee valley to make:

A nice forged/hardened 100 pound anvil with a lapped top for $1 a pound.

:D

[Marv Werner]

Pedder...

What? You don't like John Deere green? :D

Marv

PS....sure do like your backsaw handles! :)

[Tony Zaffuto]

things i'd like lee valley to make:

A nice forged/hardened 100 pound anvil with a lapped top for $1 a pound.

:D

I would go for 88 pounds, as long as either Canadian or American country of origin! I would also pay up to $2 to $2.50/lb.

[David Weaver]

they didn't up the flat rate boxes to 88 pounds did they? ;)

I would go for that, too. I think I'd even pay $2 a pound.

Last I looked, a new cast steel anvil was $600 for one around 80 pounds.

I see them go by from time to time on craigslist, but I haven't been looking too hard just yet.

They appear to be cost-prohibitive on ebay, even without shipping.

[harry strasil]

David, you would have to get in line behind about 5,000 blacksmiths, to get an old time forged anvil for $1 a #, newer ones are all cast steel because of the expense of the forging and finding and paying a few smiths that are still capable of forging an anvil. FWIW

[harry strasil]

The old forged anvils are forged of 9 to 11 seperate pieces. Peter Wright was the first one to forge an anvil of 2 or 3 pieces.

[Neil Zenuk]

How about making some #39 Dado planes? 1/4" thru 1" in 1/8" increments?

[harry strasil]

I wonder what Mr. Lee wants to make next or what he has had on a back burner that may be in the works?

[David Weaver]

David, you would have to get in line behind about 5,000 blacksmiths, to get an old time forged anvil for $1 a #, newer ones are all cast steel because of the expense of the forging and finding and paying a few smiths that are still capable of forging an anvil. FWIW

Yeah, it was a pipe dream. I've seen for what the forged ones go for, even on ebay when someone has to pay a load of freight cost.

I'd assume most of the ones on CL are either old wrought iron (some say that on them) or old cast steel anvils. Anything hardened would suit me fine. I just want something that doesn't ding when I pein the dovetails on a plane made out of annealed O1. Thus far, I've been using the back of a cast iron machinists vise, but each time I make a plane, I have to go over the anvil on it and sand off the burrs.

[george wilson]

I made the 300# anvils used in the Anderson Forge at Williamsburg. The pattern,I mean. Unfortunately,they left the pattern at some foundry in Texas after having several made for $600.00 each years ago,late 70's-early 80's. The foundry went under,and all was auctioned off. Damned careless of them. I worked for weeks on that pattern,carefully carving it to look hand forged. Even left the lump of metal under the horn which early anvils had from welding the horn on.

The got them cast in 4140 steel and ground on top. After a bit of rust,they look perfect. I should have gotten myself 1 when the getting was good,but at that time I had no place to keep it,and $600.00 was a bit of money for something I wasn't sure I'd ever have the circumstances to use.

I was making another 300# early anvil pattern with a 5th. leg in the center of 1 side of the anvil,and a smaller horn when I was retired. Hopefully my replacement will finish it up.

Very early anvils had "church windows" in their side,with arched tops. I don't know why. The 5th. leg was some vestige of that type anvil.

[Mark Wyatt]

I've been at two auctions in the last year where I could have purchased what looked like an old anvil for less than $50. I think they were sold to scrap dealers, which I hate to see. I didn't know there was a market for them. Any instructions on what to look for or books I should read?

[John Coloccia]

I'm still hoping for bow saws and the fancy shmancy Klausz style blade. LOL.

[David Weaver]

I've been at two auctions in the last year where I could have purchased what looked like an old anvil for less than $50. I think they were sold to scrap dealers, which I hate to see. I didn't know there was a market for them. Any instructions on what to look for or books I should read?

Were they all pocked up with a beat up surface on the top?

[Mark Wyatt]

Were they all pocked up with a beat up surface on the top?

I was able to go back to the auction company site and get a picture from an auction in September. I believe this item sold for $30.

[David Weaver]

Wouldn't have gone for that if I'd have been present!

It's a little dirty and rusty, but i've seen a lot worse listed here on CL for a lot more money.

There are a couple of clean good-brand anvils on my CL for about 10 times that much right now, that appears to be my local option if I can't get to a weekday auction.

[Rob Lee]

To anyone is the PA area, if you have time to spare tomorrow (Friday) and Saturday, Rob Lee is usually at the Brown/Fine Tool Journal tool sale and auction in Harrisburg. Speak to the man personally about what you want him to make (personally, I'm going to ask him what happed to the Sens the other night when they played the Penquins!!!).

To Dom: when you going into saw re-toothing/sharpening business?

Tony wasn't kidding...he did pull my chain about the Sens.....!:D

Cheers -

Rob
(just finished sitting through the auction.... And have only 21 lots following me home......)

[David Weaver]

Rob -

I hope you picked up an anvil to sell me!

(that would be taking customer service and relations to new heights!)

:p

[george wilson]

I was in an antique shop. The little old lady owner had an ld anvil that must have been sway backed by about 1/2" in the middle. She said"Well,all you've got to do is take a little sandpaper!!"

No reply from me. I don't know where to begin with such people.

[David Weaver]

Haha...take a little sandpaper.

There is a nice peter wright anvil on CL here, actually there are two and a trenton.

I can't get a response from the guy, nor can I get any answer on his phone.

He wants just under $3 a pound for the peter wright anvil, but it's light enough that I could lift it (136 pounds).

I hate it when there's stuff on CL that I want and the people don't answer!

I'd be willing to sand some pitting out of the surface of the anvil is hard enough to make it worth doing, but half inch? You'd need to make a tow-behind jig to hold it upside down and then drive up and down the street with it to get it closer.

[David Laaneorg]

Ok, I've got one thing I'd love to see made again. How about a good hand crank grinder. A lot of the old ones found on ebay, CL or otherwise are either really cheaply made, or won't work because of wear and tear.

How about redesigning it right from scratch? I was thinking about it last night, some of the older ones had an integral clamp to attach to a bench/table. Others have bolt holes to permanent mounting. What about a design with both? The clamping part can be detached when not needed, or when mounted. Another idea, what about not having the crank beside the wheel? I've used a couple of hand crank grinders that other people have, and when doing something like an axe, the handle can get in the way of the crank at times. Not only that, but I like looking at the grinding action from the side rather than from straight on. So, how about having the crank behind the wheel with a worm drive connecting it to the main gear ring, with a 20:1 ratio to from that to the wheel? That way you can stand beside the wheel and get a better view of the action?

Any thoughts? Would this only work for me, or would anyone else be interested in this?

[george wilson]

I hate those old hand crank grinders. When I was a kid on light houses,all I ever had to use was those old things. It is not real easy to hold a tool for grinding with 1 hand and turn the crank with the other. What is the point? Nostalgia? We still have electric power.

I use hand tools plenty,but this is different.

[Alice Frampton]

Ok, I've got one thing I'd love to see made again. How about a good hand crank grinder. <snip> Any thoughts? Would this only work for me, or would anyone else be interested in this?
Given the number of emailed enquiries I get about my hand-cranked grinder set up, I doubt you'd be alone. But whether there's enough interest to make it a viable product, dunno. Might be too many people who feel about them like George does.:)

Perhaps they're more common on the secondhand market in North America than they are over here in Merrie Olde Englande, but every time I use a hand drill and the twist bit grabs again, I wish someone (Hi, Rob! *waves*) was making fluted drill bits.

Cheers, Alf

[Rob Lee]

(snip)
I wish someone (Hi, Rob! *waves*) was making fluted drill bits.

Cheers, Alf

Hi Alf (waving back...):D

Shoot me a photo of the ones you like.. ok?

Cheers -

Rob
(studiously ingnoring the suggestion to make anvils......:eek: )

[David Weaver]

I'm with george on the grinder - unless there's a 100 pound flywheel attached to the crank grinder, I don't want anything to do with it. I quite like the cheap grinder that I have. I would love ...LOVE to find a baldor grinder for a reasonable price, but I can't justify it because I have no trouble grinding hard on a $45 home depot grinder. One white wheel, one gray wheel - I think the $15 on the white wheel may have been a waste of money, I haven't burnt anything with the gray wheel in three or four years, and it gets used plenty.

Plus, the cost to cast a hand grinder and make gears for it, and it would have to run 6" stones unlike a lot of the old ones.... just not worth the price.

I saw a booth at my favorite flea market, which rarely has tools that I'm interested in, where the guy had a bunch of planes, hatches, axes, etc, and he had 5 hand crank grinders, all functional, for $20 each. The wheels were worn down significantly on them, but he said they worked, and the ones I fiddled with were fine.

[Marv Werner]

I need two hands to hold whatever I'm grinding.

Regarding hand tools, I cannot think of anything more impractical.

[harry strasil]

LOL, any kind of tailed hand tool in an Amish woodshop. ( couldn't resist the temptation)

[David Weaver]

Harry, if you're ever in central Pennsylvania, I can make your wish come true. Show you an amish-owned lawn and garden store, too, one where the owner isn't *supposed* to be able to use what he's selling....which is all fine and good....until it snows, then all of the sudden the driveway is magically open when you get there and the owner just gives you a blank stare when you ask him how it got open. If you ask long enough how it was opened, he says "a snowblower...duh!!!"

[harry strasil]

LOL, David, gas powered snowblower no doubt, anyway both of mine are.

I used to have lots of Amish Craftsman friends David. I helped them get certain non tailed apprentices for both their woodshops and smith shops, They are nice people. Just that the Old, Old, Old, harness maker (now passed on) would never warm up to me, to proud I think, most of the rest treated me as one of their own.

And I would never wear my demo clothing when anywhere near them, as people are always asking me when I am in costume if I am Amish or one of the several offshoot clans.

My original post was in response to Marv's post.

[David Weaver]

My original post was in response to Marv's post.

Aye, missed that.

The amish folks I've known are all across the spectrum, too, but they have all been good folks. Some warm up to we english folks a little better than others, and most I know bend the rules a little.

The guy who owns the lawn equipment shop deals old world - if you buy something from him on payments, it's the same price as the machine is cash, and the deal is on a handshake - no paperwork. You leave the shop with the equipment and promise to come back at whatever schedule you agree to and make a payment.

The guy who might have tailed tools in his shop from time to time (never stationary) flies RC planes on the weekend and bums a buddy's inlaws to watch TV in the evening - he's not married, always says "not against the rules, I don't own the TV" :D

[Michael Horan]

I wish someone would make a more affordable set of cabinet maker (steeper pitch) hollow and round molding planes in the English/American style. Clark and Williams have beautiful planes, but I can't justify spending that kind of money as a hobbiest. Perhaps Rob Lee could talk Mujingfang into making some 9" planes like their Asian hollows and rounds. Another option might be to make castings of some nice old molding planes and make new ones in plastic or resin. Or maybe machined out on a CNC machine. I know some people will want to burn me at the stake for this one, but I think a molding plane that wears tough and doesn't vary in size with humidity would be a good thing. Other common molding planes like beads or ovolos would be nice too.

[David Weaver]

You can get quartersawn cherry from hearne for about 12 or something a board foot, some floats that you could sell once you're done (from LN or whever you want to get them, or make them) and not lose much money, and some 1/8th inch O1 steel from mcmaster carr and make a set of hollows and rounds pretty easily.

It takes me about 5 hours or a little more to make a pair, and that includes doing everything by hand except for one shot on a resaw bandsaw to get a blank close to width, and a whiz of a wedge jig across a TS to get a wedge.

The only expensive part to buy would be an iron blank if you wanted to go that way, but I've been able to get enough taper on the iron by making a wooden jig in the shape of a moulding plane iron shank and iron (i.e., recessed 1/16th of an inch) and then tacking the iron in with a couple of dots of CA glue. Run it on the belt sander to taper the shank and top half of the iron just a tiny bit, and then pop the iron out of the jig with an old chisel and all of the sudden there's enough taper on it to make it come out of the plane pretty easily.

Oh, and the C&W video on how to make the planes. First pair I made perform better than any vintage pairs that I have, the ones after that perform the same, but the aesthetics get better as you go, especially around the wedge mortise. Sell that video when you're done, too.

[Michael Horan]

Thanks, David. I'll take a look at the C&W video. If it takes you 5 hours a pair, I can count on at least 10 hours a pair for me. :rolleyes: It's something I'd like to do, but with a only few hours a week in my shop, it'll be a while, which is why I was looking at buying them.

[David Weaver]

I think you could do it in 5 or more or less, trust me, especially if your visual standards aren't as tight. Cherry is easy to work, plenty soft, and the bottoms of the planes are more durable than I'd expected, they burnish to some extent, and most of us will never use them enough to worry about wearing them out.

You could make a pair when you need them, to sort of stretch it out (QS wood certainly stores well enough you don't have to worry about when you use it).

I'm not as tight visually as C&W are with the chamfers and transitions, for two reasons:
1) I don't think I can work as tidy as they do, at least not without a lot of practice
2) They're my planes for me, nobody else is going to use them. If they take a few dents and dings, it won't matter, anyway. The key parts to get right - the iron, the sole, the wedge fit and the bedding of the iron are, I think, easier to do to taste than are the visuals. They take longer, but they're easier to get something very precise acceptable.

They're certainly a lot quicker to build than an infill plane.

I'm surprised no hotshots have made a pair out of cocobolo or ebony and shown them off on here.

[Dan Karachio]

Somewhat back on topic, I wholeheartedly second or third the request the LV bring back the Tucker Vice. I would buy one in a heartbeat.