Router table-to slot or not?

[Jay Yoder]

I am currently planning my router table which will be loosely based on NYWS table. I will be making it out of (2) 3/4" pieces of MDF with laminate on both sides. It will have a cutout for Woodpecker PRL lift which will support PC 7518. The question I have is should I really put miter slots and fence slots in as he did (using T track) or should I just design the fence to be end mounted or T'square mounted? I read in Bill Hylton's guide and he says that it weakens the top and it is not uncommon to experience dips where them miter slots are. I have seen other designs which use end mounted fence designs. Any personal experiences and pics would be very helpful and appreciated...

[Rich Neighbarger]

1 Vote for: to not. I have had both, and see no benefit of having them there, and therefore, no reason to spend the time cutting the slots. As far as weakening the top, it makes sense. What I don't like is the added potential of hanging up on the edge of a slot, as apposed to a continuous flat surface.

[glenn bradley]

I've had slots for 5 years or so. I have t-track on other fixtures. Both work fine if properly deployed. As to weakening the top; that's a matter of proper support. MDF is amazingly flexible and slotted or not, a poorly supported top will sag.

[Gene Howe]

T slots in a RT are great for holding pencils.:rolleyes:

[Dick Mahany]

I built my top from 2 pcs of 3/4 MDF with laminate on both sides. I used the Rockler T-track for the fence slots and they are only 3/8 deep so it does not have an effect on flatness when supported well. Likewise, I ran a long miter track slot in front and have no problems with sagging even though it has a relatively heavy Milwaukee 3.5 Hp router in a PRL V2 lift. I have a few more pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/dmshopshots/RouterTable#
Good luck with your project.
Regards,

[Dan Henry]

My vote is for no slots for the fence hold down and no miter slot. I have used a square block with a handle for miter cuts that rides against the fence and works great, I also have a sled for cutting rail and styles and rides against the fence. This makes much simple set ups as I do not need to square the fence to any thing. I secure the fence with clamping blocks to the top at the out side edges.

My 2 cents worth

Dan

[Pete Janke]

I have the miter slot and stopped using it. A square block works great for me.

Dick,
Beautiful job on your router table.

[Norman Pyles]

I built my table top with out a mitre slot, and clamped my feather boards to the front. After about a year of this, routed a slot and added a t-track. Much happier using the t-track mounted feather boards.

[Jim Heffner]

I vote for the slots in both. I feel it is better to have them and not use them
as often as planned, then to need them and not have them. I would NOT
have my router table without the miter slots, it comes in really handy to be able to position a feather board exactly where needed.

[Chip Lindley]

One T-slot is great for fastening feather boards, or other hold downs. Shapers have them, so why not RTs! But IMO additional T-slots for fence attachment clutters the table and offers opportunity to hang up the workpiece as it passes over.

A fence can be attached without carving up the table more than absolutely necessary. It can run on tracks mounted on the table edges such as a TS or BS fence.

[Cody Colston]

This is one of those questions that is well suited to a poll. It's an opinion question and it is easier to see which opinion comes out on top rather than reading all the comments.

I have track in both my fence and tabletop. It works for me which is the only thing that matters in this case. ;)

[Keith Weber]

I installed a Woodcraft T-track and would not be without it. I never use it with a miter gauge, but use it with my Lee Valley featherboard all of the time.

Keith

[Todd Reinbold]

I vote for no miter slot. I'm not going to put one on my double router table either. Never really used them.

[Van Huskey]

I have three router tables one with slots (t in the fence and t and miter on the table), one with just a miter slot and one with none. If confined to one I would have the slots, although I do not use them a lot having them there when I need/want them is a darn good thing!

[Paul Greathouse]

If your still in the design stage I would take a serious look at the Kreg fence which is side mounted. I have no experience with it but I am seriously considering it for a future rebuild of my NYW tabletop. I used the "through the table" fence slide system in the NYW plans and would never do it again. It's a serious pain to adjust, especially when sawdust collects in the slot.

As for the miter slot, definately do it. It's great for featherboards and every once in a while I use it with the miter gauge. As Glenn said, if properly done the top will hold up just fine.

[Matt Meiser]

No miter slot but t-track instead for holding featherboards. All I ever use the slot for it featherboards. When I just had my router in my extension table and didn't have anything I missed it but only for that purpose.

[Jay Yoder]

Thanks all for the input. So many great thoughts and opinions. I am a bit away from actually getting this project started but the way I figured it the more helpful input I could get the better. For those of you who put in the miter slots, how did you attach them? Epoxy, screws, both?

[Paul Greathouse]

I have used "screws only" on two different tables and have not had a problem but epoxy would be a good addition to ensure a positive bond.

[John Thompson]

T track miter slot for use on mine with home-made spring-board in lieu of feather board and fence rides in T tracks. Both required a 1/2" deep groove. I also have 1 1/2" MDF home-made top laminated both sides. There has been no issue of hanging for me.

As far as weakening the top.. 8 years old and the top is the same tolerance as the day I finished it so it would be hard to convince me it does... I have a heavy 3 1/2 HP Milwaukee under the top and I did re-inforce the area around the insert plate with angle iron bars so... go figure!

[Glen Butler]

I have t slot for fence position and don't like them. They fill with dust and create one more lip for the work piece to get caught on. I like the slot in the front and on the fence for featherboards though.

[Brian Kincaid]

I use mine for feather boards and miter gauge. I use the miter gauge far more than I thought I would. It's and incra with an old TS fence attached to it. I have used it to put decorative cuffs on furniture legs, etc using cove and chamfer bits.

-Brian

[Don Morris]

Router table slots/tracks necessary...absolutely not. Absolutely helpful...absolutely yes.

[Myk Rian]

I have T-tracks and a miter gauge on mine.
Here's what you do. Build the top without, and if you want them later, put them in.