Lock Miter Bit suggestions

[Ken Shoemaker]

I understand set-up on these bits can be tricky. I also understand that set-up blocks can be helpful, BUT, the stock must be exactly the thickness of the set-up block. Any deviation and the block doesn't work. (I gotta think a set-up block, close to the stock size, would give you a pretty good startig point though.)

There is a wide price range on these bits. I'm looking for a bit that is easy to set-up, last forever, never chips the carbide, and 100% rebate on the purchase price :D. Does anyone have a bit they would recommend?

[Rick Lizek]

Curious as to why you need one. In our commercial mill shop the only application we use a lock miter on is a 3 sided box beam cover and we run it in a 4 sided Wadkin moulder Over the years in various shops, well intentioned designers would try to use the cutter in certain applications which was quickly replaced with simpler and more effective ways to accomplish the same look.

What are you trying to do that can't be done with splines, biscuits or some other means??? I see it used a lot in the hobby mags for doing Craftsman style legs but you can do the same thing with simple miters and packing tape.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Rick,
You got it... Craftsman legs for two end tables I'm working on. It seamed that these joints would creat a great glue surface and allow the QSWO to be seenon all sides of the leg.

Ken

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

As Rick said, a regular miter with biscuits or splines is easier and faster.

The one benefit of the lock miter, is that it's easier to clamp together.

[Ken Shoemaker]

The clamping issue is a biggie... They HAVE o be square or I'll get into trouble.

[Rick Lizek]

They...meaning what are you trying to do.??

You can't do better than the Merle from MlCS. Clamping issue becomes a minor thing.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/merle_clamp.html The packing tape works well and if the wood has become bowed the Merle will take care of that. The steel bands the clamp blocks are what makes the Merle so fast and simple to use. Try that with a standard band clamp and clamp corners.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I bought the large and small lock miter bit (45 degree) from Somerfeld Tools and got the quick setup jig as well. The set up easy jig adjust for many wood thickness and does not cost much. It comes with a DVD and is very good in detail of use. It did not take long to turn out a few 8 inch long sample pieces.

I also got the easy setup Jig for Freud bits that they sell.

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Catalog-15-Page-77/products/533/

[Glen Butler]

In the past I used a lock miter on my box newels but the bevel provides long grain gluing and is strong enough without splines or biscuits. Clamping for me was still the issue so I cut two pieces of 3/4 ply one for each end of the column. They have a U cut out of them that is the width of the column. This holds the sides from kicking out and need much less clamps. I know a pic is worth a thousand words so I can post something later when I get to my own computer, just ask.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Glen,

What brand bit did you use??? How long did it last??? Would you use the Lock Miter bit again if you had the chance?

Please post any pics you can of the glue up jig/procedure... Thanks a ton!!

Ken

[Michael Weber]

I spent an entire weekend a while back trying to set up one of these blankety blank things. Found several different web sites giving instructions on how to set them up with nooooo problems. They sure made it sound simple. The only thing I accomplished was to make myself feel stupid and wasted a lot of test stock.:mad:

[Brian Smith3]

I have a CMT and Freud, each for different stock thickness. They're virtually interchangeable quality wise. Both good bits, whiteside makes them too, in general I think Whiteside makes better bits but more expensive. I use them for drawers but I also used the 3/4 for the legs on a desk I built. I love the lock miter.

IME the lock miter is about two things. 1) The stock has to be the same thickness and 2) you need the correct setup. After that it's cake. Keeping everything snug and square to the bit is the key, simple jigs make this easy (see tutorials below).

The setup is pretty straight forward. Use this tutorial and it will work perfect every time. This is by far the best way to set up. (I wasted many BF of wood before John taught me how to set it up perfect every time, RIP John)
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-sop-1.htm

Good tutorial here on the creek too for drawers
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=132180

Haven't done Norm's dovetails and dados for utility drawers for a very long time (in fact I sold my Leigh and only do dovetails by hand now).

[Mark Koury]

I have used lock miter bits over the years quite a bit. Currently, I’m using a Freud bit on the router table and a Felder brand (made by Leitz?) cutter on my large combo machine.

There are 2 keys to getting it right. First, trial comparisons to set the height of the cutter and then to set the fence position - done by flipping end cuts of a waste piece.(see note) Second, don’t cut the knife edge of the cut piece back beyond the edge-face of the board. This knife edge if cut beyond the face will cause instability as you cut it. Another way is to clamp a straight edge on your work piece and run that along the top of the fence, supporting the cut. The flat cut can be made with a straight edge running against a plywood panel edge lying on (and attached to) the table. Here the knife edge is less important. See my crude note, which I made for myself several years ago.

[Glen Butler]

Ken I use the Freud and still have it. Surely it will last me a long time. I easily get a couple thousand from my bits and thats a lot of box newels. I will post some more info later if you can be patient today. I will not make to the shop to get the photos until this afternoon. I will give you some more information now though.

For 3/4 stock: On a freud bit when the first flat spot is flush with the top of table raise the bit 15/32". Then set the fence 3/4 behind where the 45* of the bit intersects with the table. Its that easy. Precut the material on the table saw so the bit is not hogging out so much material, just make sure to leave enough for the locking part.

If you want to do my U shaped plywood idea, you will have to wait for pic. Will post tonight.

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Ken.

Before you buy, be sure to check out Eagle America (http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v192-1602). They sell re-badged Whiteside bits. As an option, you can get setup blocks to give you a leg up.

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

Ken, I'm the guy who wrote the lock mitered drawer tutorial someone above posted a link to. My first bit that lasted for years was a CMT. I like it a lot and I had it resharpened once. Then after it got dull again I decided to go with a new bit and I bought a Whiteside 3360 and boy what a difference! I don't ever remembering my CMT working this well, even brand new.
I found a great source, competitive prices and free shipping on orders over $29 at http://www.woodworkersworld.net/45_degree_lock_miter_router_bit.shtml
BTW, don't waste your money on setup blocks, follow my method of setting up and then make your own for future reference.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Thanks alot to everyone who replied!!!! Jim, thanks for your input. I saw your tutorial and thought it was very well done. I'm sure it helped out a few other guys as well.

I'm going to go for that bit and see what happens.

Thanks again.... And if anyone else has input, post it. I think we'd all want to hear from you.


Ken