Has anyone here gotten rid of their jointer for good?

[John Stevens]

Hi, guys. I know, this is like asking whether I should prefer chocolate or vanilla. But I've never been embarrassed about asking stupid questions, so here goes.

I want to downsize my shop into a smaller area. For the smaller area I'm looking at, getting rid of my 8" jointer would save a lot of space and make it much easier to work...other than getting the lumber four-square...and I only buy rough-cut lumber.

I know about all the "work arounds" for edge-jointing and face-planing without a jointer, so know I'd be trading away convenience to pick up space...trading away productivity at the earliest stage but picking up productivity in the later stages because I'd have more space to work. Anyone here gotten rid of their jointer without regretting it overall? Thanks in advance for your opinions.

Regards,

John

[Van Huskey]

Can't imagine no jointer! Have you considered a combo machine? Lots of them out there and the American importers have joined the fray making prices attractive.

[Chip Lindley]

I can't imagine quality woodworking, using roughsawn hardwood without a jointer! I worked hard to find a great deal on a nice 8" DJ20. I won't be getting rid of it !!

[mreza Salav]

I have a 6" jointer and in the last two projects I had all 8"-14" boards and couldn't face-join any of them. I did use my jointer for edge jointing but that too can be achieved with a glue-line rip blade.

*IF* I had to part with one of my 5 major tools (table saw, band saw, planer, router/table, jointer) it will be the jointer.

[Lee Ludden]

You could always try http://www.lie-nielsen.com/images/8_lg.jpg

And if you don't like it, you can sent it to me :)

[Chuck Tringo]

+1 on what Lee suggested, though I went the way of the Veritas Bevel Up Jointer Plane.

and to Chip...I guess that means there was no quality woodworking performed prior to the industrial revolution ?

I say let it go and reclaim your space.

[Brian Jarnell]

All the wood I get needs straighting,not sure how I would do that without a jointer,that is if you mean business.

[Russell Sansom]

I'm with the "couldn't give up the jointer" crowd. I mostly work by hand. But the powered jointer saves my beautiful #8 for more important things...time saved sharpening a plane iron is time I can spend at the work bench.

[Chris Kennedy]

I have flattened boards with handplanes, and if you want to go that route, I would likewise suggest the LV Bevel Up Jointer (I don't have one, just the BU Jack, and it is phenomenal). On the other hand, I am in the market for a jointer because simply the time required. I don't have much shop time, and while I enjoy using my planes, sometimes I want to get more done than just flattening a board.

Cheers,

Chris

[Brian Penning]

What size are you planning on downsizing to?

I only have a 12 X 16 area and do fairly well by having everything all wheels.

Myself, I can't see not having a jointer.

[Jason White]

If/when I replace my 6" jointer and 13" lunchbox planer, it'll be with one of the new European-style planer/jointer combination machines because I have a small shop and need the space.

I, too, am starting to use a lot of rough and reclaimed lumber and wouldn't be without a jointer. "Workarounds" take up way too much of my time.

Jason


Hi, guys. I know, this is like asking whether I should prefer chocolate or vanilla. But I've never been embarrassed about asking stupid questions, so here goes.

I want to downsize my shop into a smaller area. For the smaller area I'm looking at, getting rid of my 8" jointer would save a lot of space and make it much easier to work...other than getting the lumber four-square...and I only buy rough-cut lumber.

I know about all the "work arounds" for edge-jointing and face-planing without a jointer, so know I'd be trading away convenience to pick up space...trading away productivity at the earliest stage but picking up productivity in the later stages because I'd have more space to work. Anyone here gotten rid of their jointer without regretting it overall? Thanks in advance for your opinions.

Regards,

John

[Joe Chritz]

As soon as I get a combo unit at 15" or wider I will get rid of both the planer and jointer. Of course I don't see that happening anytime soon.

A combo machine would definitely free up some shop space for you.

It would be possible to order you lumber S3S at close to lengths needed and probably make it work but if you get rough lumber the added hassles may not be worth it to get rid of the jointer.

Joe

[Paul Ryan]

You can do alot more with a 6" jointer than many believe. It is not hard to face joint stock larger than 6". After learning this and starting my way down the "slippery slope" I see no need for anything larger than a 6". To be honest I have been so pleased with my stanley #7 & #8 I have been wondering what I need a powered jointer for. I do still use the powered jointer but for less and less. It is just as easy to clamp the board down and run the plane over it, and much safer too. My advice unless you work with lots and lots of rough lumber, down size to a 6" powerered and buy a LN #7 or 8. I have a LV bevel up smoother that is a really nice tool. For smoothing it is great, little to no tear out, and you dont have to sand after using it. But for jointing I would go with a baily design or bevel down.

[Frank Drew]

I have a 6" jointer and in the last two projects I had all 8"-14" boards and couldn't face-join any of them.

Yes, you could have, at least those up to 11-3/4" or so.


You can do a lot more with a 6" jointer than many believe. It is not hard to face joint stock larger than 6".


On John's original question, what kind of work you do and what equipment you already have will determine whether or not you need any particular machine. For all-around furniture work with time a consideration, I'd consider a table saw, planer and jointer the essential start-up tools, with plans to get a band saw ASAP.

[Brian Penning]

As soon as I get a combo unit at 15" or wider I will get rid of both the planer and jointer. Of course I don't see that happening anytime soon.

A combo machine would definitely free up some shop space for you.

Joe

I dunno....when I look at the depths(distance from wall) of some of those combo machines I question whether they really do in fact save space.
The Grizzly in the link sticks out over 45". http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Jointer-Planer/G0633
My 8" jointer really hugs the wall.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_eDYZqM9-MJw/SzE0Mf_fheI/AAAAAAAAS1Y/EHSAR94JJlk/s640/IMG_3994.JPG

[scott spencer]

It's hard for me to imagine working rough sawn without the jointer. I know it's "possible", but I wouldn't want to have to do the work arounds or use hand planes to face joint rough sawn lumber for every project. I also realize that many others don't use the jointer at all, but it's usually the first step in the process for most of my projects...flatten a face, square an adjacent edge, plane the opposite side, and rip to width...nearly perfectly flat square stock every time.

My "allowable" shop space is less pretty small (~ 1/3 of a two car garage), and a 6" floor jointer is all I dare squeeze in. It doesn't take up much extra space if I tuck the back end under a table saw wing.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/shop1.jpg

[Brian Cover]

Why not get rid of the jointer and use a router table with a split fence on those occasions when you need a jointer? Same principle in operation.

[Andrew Joiner]

I use planer sleds and straight line rip jigs.

I bought a new Powermatic 6" jointer in 1970 and used it in my cabinet shop for 3 or 4 years. I was buying S2S stock, and ran the edges thru the jointer.

Then I found out it's more cost efficient and easier to buy lumber S3S. A good blade and a decent table saw set-up beats a jointer for me, especially on long stock edges. Oh and even a cheap rip blade won't ever chip out an edge like a knife can.

I never found the need to go back to owning and maintaining a jointer.

Recently I got a deal on some beautiful rough planks. I ran it thru a lunch box planer on a sled and straight lined the edge on the table saw with a jig.

Even if I had a source for lots of cheap rough lumber,I would still flatten it with a planer and a sled. Every time I run a piece thru I smile cause it's power feed flattening. Holding down long heavy stock to a jointer table is hard work. I mostly mill 8' or longer stock.

The only time I'd ever want a jointer is if I had a lot of short stock to joint and face.

[Neil Brooks]

I imagine I could live fairly well without my jointer.

But ... thankfully ... I don't have to make THAT choice :)

[Rich Neighbarger]

:eek: Heavens, NO! Sell the bed, sleep on the floor, and put the jointer on the newly found real estate.:D

[Roger Pozzi]

My jointer was the first to go when I "downsized" to an 8'X12' shed.
Absolutely no regrets. If I had a production shop, I'd have to have it, but, if your a hobbyist like I am, then time is not an issue. I now use my thickness planer in ways others laugh at, but, I also enjoy myself more and get just as high a quality as before (maybe even higher), and, with what seems to be less work. Or at least, easier on my body work.
And, edge jointing on a router table is very easy to do with the same finished results.

[Derek Noel]

Try putting your jointer aside for a few projects and see how strong the temptation is to pull it out when you are preparing your rough lumber. Then you will know if YOU need a jointer.
I don't have one but my neighbor does so i spend a lot of time at his shop getting any big projects started them finish up with hand tools in my basement. if it is a small project i just use a router and spright edge or a sled on the table saw.
Your best bet is just to move next to my neighbor, He is ausom.:D

[Fred Voorhees]

I will give up other things way before I give up my jointer. Nothing more need be said.

[scott spencer]

Why not get rid of the jointer and use a router table with a split fence on those occasions when you need a jointer? Same principle in operation.

A split fence router will only take care of the edge jointing but not the face of the board. If the face isn't flat, edge jointing with a router or a TS (or jointer) won't necessarily be a perfect 90° to the face.

[Steve Griffin]

It's definitely a great idea to sell your jointer, if you have no interest whatsoever in woodworking and plan to pursue a new hobby, such as underwater basket weaving.

-Steve

[Brian Jarnell]

You might like to look at what I must certainly would never part with,that is until I give up woodwork!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79/cicero1520/DSCF0370Small-1.jpg

[Terry Hatfield]

:eek: Heavens, NO! Sell the bed, sleep on the floor, and put the jointer on the newly found real estate.:D

+1 on this one.

[Rod Sheridan]

I dunno....when I look at the depths(distance from wall) of some of those combo machines I question whether they really do in fact save space.
The Grizzly in the link sticks out over 45". http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Jointer-Planer/G0633
My 8" jointer really hugs the wall.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_eDYZqM9-MJw/SzE0Mf_fheI/AAAAAAAAS1Y/EHSAR94JJlk/s640/IMG_3994.JPG

Yes, however some other combo machines do hug the wall and save space.

I have a Hammer A3-31, it's great...........Rod.

[Cody Colston]

Try putting your jointer aside for a few projects and see how strong the temptation is to pull it out when you are preparing your rough lumber. Then you will know if YOU need a jointer.


There's some solid advice.

Personally, I can't see doing without a jointer if you are a serious woodworker. The time issue is almost as important for a hobbiest as it is for a pro, too, because our time in the shop is limited by the day job.

I know it's supposed to be all about the destination, yadda, yadda, yadda, but I like completing projects, too and the jointer allows me to do that much quicker and easier than using alternative methods. Flattening boards with a hand plane is not my cup of tea. Even Krenov had a jointer. ;)

[John Stevens]

Many thanks to everyone for sharing your experience and opinions. So many ways we work, so many different things we can prioritize. I'm probably going to try almost all of the above before I get rid of the jointer--it's got a Shelix head and it's been a real blessing to have. As Mark Twain once quipped, "a man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn no other way."

Thanks to those who are egging me on to buying a combo J-P. There's one in my future--with a Shelix head, no less--but it's not in the cards for a few years.

Regards,

John

[Tony Shea]

Well to make things easier on you, if you go ahead and decide you don't need the jointer I will be more than happy to take it off your hands. I am currently in the club without the jointer and use me LN and Stanley hand planes to flatten faces and square edges. I really like the process of using hand planes. Even with that said I am in the market for a jointer as time is often of the essence. Others say that as a hobbiest time is not an issue. But it is for me when I rarely get enough time to go to the shop and work as it is. Most of us hobbiests have day jobs. I've also gone the sled route for the planer but found that in a short amount of time the sled will eventually develop a slight bow and another will need to be made. Not something I want to build over and over again. I just think a jointer is an extremely useful tool in anyone's shop, and if you already have one than to give it up would be crazy. But lately it seems as though this is the trend. To each his own I guess.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I use planer sleds and straight line rip jigs.

I bought a new Powermatic 6" jointer in 1970 and used it in my cabinet shop for 3 or 4 years. I was buying S2S stock, and ran the edges thru the jointer.

Then I found out it's more cost efficient and easier to buy lumber S3S. A good blade and a decent table saw set-up beats a jointer for me, especially on long stock edges. Oh and even a cheap rip blade won't ever chip out an edge like a knife can.

I never found the need to go back to owning and maintaining a jointer.

Recently I got a deal on some beautiful rough planks. I ran it thru a lunch box planer on a sled and straight lined the edge on the table saw with a jig.

Even if I had a source for lots of cheap rough lumber,I would still flatten it with a planer and a sled. Every time I run a piece thru I smile cause it's power feed flattening. Holding down long heavy stock to a jointer table is hard work. I mostly mill 8' or longer stock.

The only time I'd ever want a jointer is if I had a lot of short stock to joint and face.

I completely agree with you. I had a 6" jointer in my old shop [400 sf]. Then I went to 320 sf and lost the jointer. Have not missed it. I only really needed it for the small work I was doing making raised panels for cabinet doors. I use either the router table or the table saw with a straight line jig.

[Andrew Joiner]

I've also gone the sled route for the planer but found that in a short amount of time the sled will eventually develop a slight bow and another will need to be made. Not something I want to build over and over again. .

Tony have you tried flipping your sled over? With my one layer sled I could flip it if it bows.

I have an 8' sled. I used one layer of 3/4"plywood 8'x 13" for the sled. I have an infeed table that is flat to set up on. It works fine and it's lightweight and simple.
Here's the link http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=134633

[John Stevens]

I've also gone the sled route for the planer but found that in a short amount of time the sled will eventually develop a slight bow and another will need to be made.

Speaking of sleds, I saw a clever alternative at the "lumberjocks" forum. I can't post the link here (against TOS), but if you go to lumberjocks.com and do a search for "topic 1992" pick the first result that comes back. (Just as a double-check, it's the one posted by member "Gary K.")

Here are some purloined pics:


The parts--
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh224/grkemper/Planer/IMG_0012Small.jpg


The rails--
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh224/grkemper/Planer/IMG_0013Small.jpg


The router sled without the router mounted--
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh224/grkemper/Planer/IMG_0014Small.jpg


The router sled with the router mounted--
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh224/grkemper/Planer/IMG_0018Small.jpg


There are more pics, but I think that's enough to either give you the idea or make you curious enough to visit the site. Seems it could be fairly easy to do if you had a dedicated router and bit plus a flat workbench of the correct length, and if you made the rails the same width as the router bit. Lots of airborne dust though, and my jointer is pretty good where that's concerned.

Regards,

John

[Marty Paulus]

It's definitely a great idea to sell your jointer, if you have no interest whatsoever in woodworking and plan to pursue a new hobby, such as underwater basket weaving.

-Steve

I had to laugh at this one. When I was more active in SCUBA diving I actually considered taking this class:
http://usscuba.com/SpecialtyClasses.html

How many people do you know that can actually say they have taken and passed underwater basket weaving??? :p

[Joe Shinall]

I guess you could always setup a table saw jointing jig. I used one for about a year before I bought my jointer. But will NEVER EVER EVER EVER get rid of my jointer now that I have one. I have a 15" Grizzly planer and 8" Grizzly jointer in a small space and just put them on mobile bases and have them pushed against one another. Pull em out when I need em and push em back against each other when i don't. I'm in a small 16x17 2 car garage and share it with all my mechanics tools as well so not much room for dedicated spaces.

[Mike Henderson]

I wish I had room for a jointer but I don't - so I flatten my stock by hand. That doesn't mean I finish the wood by hand. I use hand planes to take out twist and flatten a board, but once I have one side flat, I run it through my planer to get both sides flat and remove the plane marks.

It doesn't take a lot of time, but it is somewhat physical.

Mike